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46

Because there is a lot happening in a short timeframe (movement phases of a fast animal or athlete), and you want to photograph it all and/or the exact timing of the relevant event cannot be predicted, so covering as many possible times where that event could happen (and discarding the rest later) is necessary and/or redundant pictures are needed ...


37

Strictly speaking, one does not need high FPS burst modes for sports or wildlife, but rather they are useful tools that open up more options. I've shot sports in the last few years with a Canon 7D, typically using 5-8 frame bursts (at I think 8fps) at a time, and I've also used a medium format manual focus camera. Both methods have produced great images, ...


23

A few things you can do to improve your results. Use ISO 5000 or 6400. The way Canon DSLRs handle the ISO settings between the full-stop settings (100, 200, 400, 800, etc.) means ISO 5000 is cleaner than ISO 4000 and even ISO 2000 on most Canon cameras. The +1/3 stop settings (ISO 125, 250, 500, 1000, 2000, 4000, etc.) should be avoided if noise is a ...


19

If the choice is between a 70-200mm f/4 with IS and a 70-200mm f/2.8 without IS, you're far better off with the f/2.8 lens and the 'faster' shutter speed that allows when shooting most sports. For high school football, IS is not that useful. In order to prevent motion blur due to athlete's movements, you're going to need to use shutter times shorter than ...


15

In addition to all the correct answers about how fast action occurs, I'd like to point out two fundamental biological reasons for why you need burst: 100ms. This is the fastest we can react to a stimulus. Olympic sprinters start to contract their muscles 100ms after the starter's gun goes off. Any event which occurs faster than this cannot be captured by ...


12

Sports photography usually require two things: a long focal length and a wide aperture. The long lens is required to shoot action a long way away. The wide aperture is used for two purposes: Letting in enough light (it won't always be bright sunshine; weather, being indoors and daylight will affect the amount of natural light available to you) so you can ...


12

Selecting an appropriate aperture When shooting sports in low light you're not going to be able to shoot at f/11. Most of us use f/2.8 lenses and shoot wide open. We do this not only because it helps isolate our subject(s) from backgrounds that are often cluttered but also because we need the "speed" of the wide aperture to allow a fast enough shutter speed....


10

Most probably, this is due to the lighting and its continuous pulses. The Digital Picture has an excellent article called "Flickering Lights (Why are some of my pictures dark?)" that states: The problem images [...] have usually been captured under fluorescent or gym/arena lighting and a short exposure was often used. Shooting action sports with a fast ...


9

I used that 80-200 for quite a few years, and currently use the first iteration of the the 70-200. I think the 80-200 is a steal! It's optically very good, built well, and focuses quickly on a capable body. I don't hesitate to recommend it in the least. (Regarding autofocus: on an N65 and D50 it's not slow to focus, but it's clearly not fast. On an F100, ...


8

VR isn't free, it can add hundreds to the cost of a lens, so that is a factor in the price difference. It can also be a real advantage at the long end, though it's less important at the shorter end. However, the real difference in the two lenses is the quality of the glass. The 70-200mm has 7 ED elements versus 3 for the other. The ED elements are high ...


8

Based on several friends' experience with both the Sigma 50-500mm and the older, pre-Global Lens Series Sigma 150-500mm (The Sigma Global Lens moniker includes the Contemporary, Art, and Sports series), I wouldn't recommend either. Once you move past 250mm or so they get softer and softer as the focal length increases. Most reviews and test charts I've seen ...


8

The best way to shoot indoors sports in most fairly evenly lit gyms/rinks/arenas is to set exposure manually. It gives you the most complete control over shutter times, aperture, and ISO. Keep in mind that manual exposure will be more accurate than automatic metering under flickering lights such as those found in most indoor sports arenas and outdoor ...


8

In general they like to use the fastest they can get away with. Just how fast that can be is subject to a number of variables. What focal length? How far is the shooting position from the participants? Does the photographer want to 'freeze' everything in the scene or leave some parts that move faster than others blurry to imply motion? How much light is ...


7

You can use continuous lights to shoot sports in a studio but you're going to have to up the ISO a lot to get a fast enough shutter speed. A better solution however is to use flash. The shortness of the flash duration when using a flashgun that uses trail trimming (where a transistor cuts power after a certain delay when lower power is required (thus giving ...


7

Actually, shooting with a compact camera rather than an SLR is part of the problem. Basically, shooting a game at night means that you don't have enough light for decent exposure times. As a consequence, your exposures are long and the moving objects are blurred. The field's lighting are rarely enough to allow you to capture moving subjects with ISO low ...


7

My primary DSLR is a Canon 5D MKII, with an older Canon 450D as a backup body that I use mostly for a set-and-forget timelapse unit with a cheap intervalometer. I've recently moved to using a GoPro HD Hero 960 & GoPro HD Hero 1080p for the TL's I would use the 450D on, although there are very severe limitations. I've got an order in for the new HD Hero 2,...


7

At f/3.5, your problem is probably shallow depth of field combined with being slightly out of focus. This is especially likely if the subject is moving towards or away from you. Other sources of blur include motion blur and poor quality. Motion blur comes from two sources: camera-shake, and subject movement. At your shutter speed and lens length, camera ...


7

When shooting any sort of fast action, shutter speed is paramount -- it's the reason you've got shutter-priority mode. In general, you're going to optimize for shutter speed when you're shooting anything in motion, giving up ISO first, and then aperture if needed in order to get the shutter speed you want. This is where your compromises start, because a ...


7

In post processing there is a way to try. Whether the result is less obstructive or not depends on your personal viewpoint, patience, skill and luck. What you do is get an image processing application that can take a fourier transform of an image. I use GIMP with a plugin called G'MIC (which has a huge number of functions and is a must for GIMP users IMO)....


6

If this is a one off opportunity then I would suggest renting a fast 200mm lens so that you get both the faster shutter that you need and the better quality optics. If it is something that is going to happen regularly then I would suggest purchasing the same. If you buy a better camera body to get faster burst then with your current lens you're simply ...


6

I get the feeling that you are not knowledgeable enough about how the camera works - how ISO, aperture, and shutter speed work together to create an exposure. So my first recommendation is to learn how it works, e.g. from the book "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson. Before proceeding with anything else, learn this. For Sports If you get blurry ...


6

If you are taking photos of fast-moving subjects, and the subjects are blurry, there are a few potential causes: Use of a lens that is to slow An f/3.5-5.6 aperture is SLOW An f/2.8 or wider aperture is faster Use of a lens that does not have IS Image stabilization helps eliminate camera shake blur Use of a camera that lacks adequate AF capabilities ...


6

Once in a lifetime! Remember that. The following goes beyond what you asked as there are more factors than 'best lens' - it's also WHY this lens and what else that interacts matters. (Evrything interacs :-) ). (1) Hire a D3s (world's best) or a D700 (superb but not as good) and lens. Or buy a used D700 :-). If you do get a D700 or even with your D7000, ...


6

The effect you are going for or story you want to tell with your photograph will play a big part in what shutter speed/depth of field you use. If you are photographing a Formula 1 race you might want to show the cars as a blur against the stands. In that case you want a slower shutter speed. If you want to highlight the loneliness of a batsman at the crease ...


6

I would first consider what focal lengths are needed. I am not a sports photographer but I have been able to shoot some middle and high school basketball where I could stand right at the sideline and often found my lenses to be too long. On an APS-sized sensor camera (likely like the entry-level Canon DSLR she's using) I found a 50mm lens to be an acceptable ...


6

There are three basic issues that can make sports pictures blurry: Subject motion too fast for the selected shutter speed. Missed focus Too much camera movement for the selected shutter speed. The camera's "Sports" setting can only do so much to help you. The amount of light available and the lens you are using don't give it as much to work with as what it ...


6

The most obvious thing is that you chose to use f/11 for your photos. At least according to the EXIF data on this image, your lens had a maximum aperture value of f/5.1 at this focal length. By using that kind of aperture, you get two stops worth of exposure and therefore you could drop your ISO by two stops. You say in a comment that you wanted more depth ...


6

Any suggestions of how to fix this? Replace the lighting with a type that does not flicker at the rate of the cycle of the alternating current powering the lights. Use shutter times longer than one-half full cycle of the flickering lights. For countries where alternating current is 50Hz, that would be 1/100 second. For countries with 60Hz AC, that would be ...


5

The only thing I would add is that I pre-focus probably once a second or more when the action is good. It saves focusing time when I want to capture an image. I use the center focus point only, the most accurate on my 5D2. I don't use any auto-tracking AF mode. I have separated my AF button from my shutter button, which has pros and cons when shooting moving ...


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