Camera focusing systems have a "Focusing brightness range" (Canon parlance), "detection range" (Nikon parlance) specification. This is found in the specifications section in your manual. Your camera is rated for 0-18EV for the center focus point, 1-18EV for the other focus points. Adding an ND filter will reduce the scene brightness below ...
Whenever you take a flash photo, you're basically combining two exposures together in one shot: the flash exposure made with light from the flash, and ambient exposure, made with all the light that's not from the flash. And the controls for those two types of exposure are different.
Ambient exposure is controlled by iso, aperture, and shutter speed.
Are you getting focus lock? Some cameras won't allow you to take a shot if focus isn't locked. This can happen if the subject is too close, it's moving, or trying to focus on an area lacking contrast. There are settings in the camera's control menus which will allow you to take a shot if focus isn't locked.
From the question:
Whenever I try to focus, it allows me to only reach to a point where the subjects are only slightly blurry and beyond that it again goes out of focus.
From comments by the OP:
Neither at auto focus nor at manual. I can feel focus alright without filters. I tried in broad daylight both using live view and viewfinder. Its like reading ...
Speaking generally, here are the problems I see with buying photographic equipment internationally:
If the seller speaks a different language to you, there may well be problems communicating about problems or even simply about the basic item details/condition.
You are importing an item - you may/will be liable to pay sales tax and customs duty as levied by ...
The flash settings might not be the problem.
In full sun, ISO 200, 1/200th second at f5.0 is about three stops over-exposed.
High speed sync along with a faster shutter speed might produce the results you want. Likewise neutral density filters are another alternative.
When you add ND filter you decrease the amount of light a lot. And for focusing you need fair amount of light and contrast. So the solution is to focus w/o filter, switch to manual focus and then put the filter to the lens.
I opened it again (stupid I know) and rolled the film back into the
canister in a panic. I’m honestly not sure what happened, but can
someone tell me if I ruined the whole roll?
Yes, it's ruined.
Film is light-sensitive. Extremely light-sensitive. Think about shutter speeds – a common one is 1/125 second. That's faster than one-hundreth of a second, to ...
Usually opening the film door in dim light only ruins a couple of shots, as the rest of the film is tightly wound around the take-up spool, shielding it from light. So, the first time you opened the door shouldn't have harmed the latent images all too much.
You say you opened the door a second time, after which you rolled the film back into the canister. ...
The 100mm macro lens is great for portraits too. The sun as suggested with appropriate shade and use of a reflector should give some great results if you do branch off.
On the macro side you can take longer exposures in available lighting. When photographing moving subjects like insects though be prepared to be out shooting when the air temperature is cool ...
qDslrDashboard's "Auto Holy Grail" mode does bulb ramping from iOS over a wi-fi connection with your 77D. The iOS port of it is called ControlMyCamera and is a beta that requires TestFlight to install.
Bulb ramping is where the exposure settings are automatically adjusted between images in a timelapse sequence to maintain overall exposure in ...
I was dealing with the exact same problem. I took a Q-Tip and wiped the contacts off on the card. Worked like a champ!! The camera would read other cards and my computer would read the one the camera didn't like. So give it a try. Seems the camera may be a little more sensitive to the condition of the contacts. Good Luck!