18

You cannot. Use the 2s timer instead which solves another problem too. The first shake occurs when you release the shutter which both 2s and 10s timers avoid. This is obviously the one you know about. The second shake occurs from the mirror in the camera as it raises to take the shot. To avoid this, the mirror must be up when the timer starts. This is ...


17

The chances of bricking your camera are extremely low (but not zero). I think something not everybody understands is the Magic Lantern does not install into your camera but to the SD card. My understanding is that the only change that is done to your camera is to enable the "bootdisk" flag, which is a very minor change. This flag tells the camera if it ...


15

The only sound that would come from the sensor itself would be a self-cleaning function, which only happens when you run the self cleaning, or turn the camera on/off. The sensor vibrates to shake off dust. This would not be happening when you are shooting. When you half press, the sounds you might hear would be from the lens AF motor or image ...


15

For changing the shutter speed, put the mode dial on Tv (as in the image below: make sure the white line corresponds to the letters Tv ), and turn the wheel high-lighted in red below (excuse my crappy images, I edited all this as something quick and dirty). On your LCD screen, you can see the below screen (let me know if you don't know how to get to this ...


14

You mention that you're looking for something with zoom, and @dpollitt gives some logical recommendations there. Be aware, though, that excepting the most expensive suggestion, these are all quite slow variable aperture zooms, and debates about zoom-vs-prime image quality aside, will generally not share a lot of handling characteristics with your 50mm. So, ...


12

You found the image at Mansurov's How to Photograph the Moon, so I think that's a good place to look for answers. Since he suggests using a 300mm lens and 1.4x or 2x teleconverter, I would bet those were used. Additionally, he also mentions that regardless of focal length, you are likely going to want to crop to get a tight photo.


11

Without more details about what exactly you find lacking in your current setup, that camera and lens is certainly capable of capturing fine portraits. They would not be inherently limited by that lens and camera. (The lens is just barely in that 'prime portrait' range though, so a longer (85mm or 100mm+) one certainly wouldn't hurt.) If its gear you feel ...


11

There is nothing wrong with your Aperture setup. RAW files are like film negatives, they need to be processed so they can be viewed/displayed as intended. Your camera does not show the RAW file when you press play and preview the image but rather a JPEG image that has been processed in-camera. This is known as a sidecar file. The software that came with ...


11

Normally I'd suggest upgrading lenses and not bodies but in this case going to the 6D is going to solve your two problems: The 6D has significantly better low light performance than the T2i/550D Your 50mm will have the same field of view on the 6D as a 30mm on the T2i I recommend you get the 6D and then maybe, if you miss the field of view of a 50mm on a ...


11

It all depends on the scene in terms of overall brightness, the total dynamic range, and how fine the graduations are between bright and dark. The wider the difference is between the brightest part and the darkest part of the scene, the further apart your darkest and brightest exposures need to be. The best way to measure this is to use your camera's ...


10

I'm surprised no one has suggested the most important thing you can do to improve that picture: Take the photo when the light is better. Let's say that row of houses faces east. There's going to be a window of time in the morning where the low angle of the sun is going to cast a nice warm light on that facade while at the same time the sky behind it is ...


10

There are two main possibilities I can think of. The easiest is that you may have inadvertently adjusted the diopter setting on your view finder. This would make the entire thing look slightly blurry. If this is the problem, fixing it should be as simple as adjusting the diopter dial near the viewfinder itself. The other potential problem is that the ...


9

I know the answers are quite complete, but I still have something to add. The main reason I went for the 600D was the flip LCD, because I'm quite small and it makes it easier to take shots of things higher up, I otherwise wouldn't reach (and a wannabe-periscope on urban explorations). It's although useful for taking close ups of things close to the ground ...


9

It means, normally a 550D comes with the older 18-55 IS lens, and now you will get the 18-55 IS Mk.II instead. Note that optically, the two are identical. The only improvement is IS algorithm (the algorithm, not hardware) Other than that it is cosmetic : the silver band is now painted black instead. In terms of performance, there is no difference between ...


9

Assuming that your T2i has some lens, that is the best one to start. Learn how to use the camera. Once you have taken a few thousand photos, you will know what kinds of shots you like, what your needs are, and then it will be obvious to you what types of lenses you should get as a second, or third lens. The "kit lens" on the T2i was the 18-55. Its a cheap ...


9

Play with the kit lens for a while. Then take a look at the photos you took, and find the ones you like. Make a list of things you like or don't like about the photos. If most of your photos end up near the same focal length, or you keep saying "I wish the background was more blurred" you should get a prime at that focal length. Ex: EF 50mm f/1.4 USM If ...


8

Did you try simply comparing them? As you can see, they are pretty much the same. So the main difference is the future lenses you can get for them and that that see this question. The last issue is of ergonomics and that is a personal matter. For going from Canon to Nikon you have to re-learn things, even the zoom and EC buttons turn the opposite way. The ...


8

As found on page 220 of the manual, the maximum burst rate can be altered by custom functions for noise reduction set to on. Also, this would explain why in RAW mode you do not experience this, as the noise reduction is probably not applicable to that shooting format. I would suggest going into your custom functions and disabling High ISO Speed Noise ...


8

To reply specifically to “Could you maybe add a concrete example of a situation in which I would want to use it?”: You may want to use White Balance bracketing if: you don’t shoot raw or very rarely process raw files, either because you prefer the quick process of shooting JPEG files and not messing much or at all with them, or because you don’t want to ...


8

Both the official Canon replacement part and many of the third party replacement parts offered on eBay show 3M tape already attached to the back of the replacement grip. I'd follow their lead as others have suggested and use 3M VHB, 3M 300LSE, or 3M 200MP (for other grips on the 550D), as it seems to be what Canon and third party makers use. Or you could ...


7

I suspect that much of the reason for the AF lens price difference boils down to this: Canon has always had autofocus motors in their EF-mount lenses, there never was an EF mount camera with a built-in focus motor. As such, they have a lot of really old AF lens models still in production, like the 50/1.8. Nikon, on the other hand, has always had autofocus ...


7

Nobody's actually asking what you use the camera for, so there's no way to tell whether or not the upgrade will benefit you. I recently bought a T3i to be a second body along with a 7D; buying a second 7D seemed overkill for what I was using it for. Whether upgrading to the 7D makes sense depends on what you're doing with it. How often do you hit a ...


7

Reduce the image size. You surely don't want your customers to download dozens of 18 megapixel images just to see spinning products. That won't be the kind of user experience that makes people reach for their wallets. And if you don't need all that resolution, you don't need to record it all in the first place. Try smaller images. Use an intervalometer to ...


6

The free upgrade simply refers to the fact that you have the ability to get the newer version of that lens, which has been improved in a variety of ways, when you purchase that camera body with the older version of the lens. I presume that is simply because there are still some boxes of the 550D kit that have been sitting on retailer shelves for a while that ...


6

1) No, the lens has very little influence on the dynamic range captured, except in exceptional circumstances, for academic interest only, see this question: Is it possible for a lens to produce too much contrast? 2) Yes, the look people attribute to HDR is the result of converting a high dynamic range image to a low dynamic range image suitable for viewing. ...


6

I checked on my 550D (good thing I'm alone in the room, I must have looked like an idiot with the camera on my ear) and a sound like what you described comes from the lens image stabilization. If I turn IS off, use a lens without IS or with no lens attached the camera is completely quiet (except for the AF motor, obviously)


6

I shoot HDR images using the same workflow you did (Bracketing > Photomatix Pro > Lightroom) and my images are all crisp, in fact, most of them are sharper than original photos due to overlaying of multiple images. Sot sure whats causing your images to become blurry, but you can try out a few things. When taking bracketed (-2,0,+2) shots, use a tripod. This ...


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible