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Many "generic" flash makers have units that are supposed to be compatible with the Canon RT radio system. Most of them include "RT" in the model number of the units they offer that they claim are compatible. Most of them are, for the most part, compatible with OEM Canon RT devices. Where it gets a little bit messy is when one tries to get two different ...


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My guess is you are using Liveview. Liveview normally disables flash shooting when using non-ETTL, flash units or triggers in the hotshoe. You can fix this by disabling "Silent Liveview Shooting" in the camera menu.


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@ Taiii1234 Do you mean the focus on the image looks different now, that the background doesn’t blur away with emphasis on your subject like it did before? The blurred background is called “bokeh“ and we like that effect in portraits to draw attention to our subject, often a person or face. We get less dof (depth of field) and more bokeh with a lower Fstop ...


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It is a good idea get the silicone wristbands bracelets to give a focus ring more resistance is works. Use this custom wrist band convenient and smoothly I like it so much.


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You can't. Many small sensored cameras, such as the PowerShot SX70, limit maximum exposure times to prevent poor sensor performance due to heat buildup in the sensor. Even cameras with marginally larger sensors will often limit exposures taken with higher ISO settings to shorter times than exposures taken with lower ISO settings. See, for example, these ...


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It does not appear from the manual that the Canon Powershot SX70 HS has bulb-mode capability.


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Sadly the software is very, very limited. Doing what you want, is a very manual task. You can switch the dropdown from from auto to color temperature. This should display an absolute value for the current image (albeit not the current one). Set it to the point which looks ok, then take a note of the value. Starting Point for manual WB Source: Wikipedia ...


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What should I do to remove these borders? Use a razor and straightedge, or purchase a paper trimmer.


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No. They are physically different mounts, with different dimensions, shapes, and sizes. EF-S lens on the left; EF-M lens on the right. If the lens fits the EF-M mount, it will not fit the EF-S one without some type of physical linkage adapting. But even if there were such an adapter, you would never achieve the full range of focus to infinity with one, ...


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The only possible cause would be having changed the aspect ratio the camera is recording in... IDK if the camera has viewfinder masking when the different ratios are used, but it would affect the images either way. But I don't think that what you mean by "zoomed in" is the field of view we are all thinking it is. I believe that what you probably mean is ...


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The only possible way to "zoom" with a prime lens is to change to a camera with a different sensor size, or to crop the image in-camera. The latter is generally feasible only with mirrorless cameras because DSLRs have a fixed angle of view viewfinder whereas mirrorless cameras have an electronic viewfinder. You can of course crop the image as you wish on a ...


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No, it is not possible. Canon DSLR bodies have 44 mm flange focal distance. This is to make room for the mirror. EF-M mount has only 18 mm flange focal distance. There is no mirror, so no need to make room for it. The EF-M lens, if mounted on DSLR body, would be too far away from the sensor. In the other direction, things are much better. A mirrorless ...


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If the frame is correctly exposed except for a lighter band, that may indicate an overlap, which might happen if the shutter is delayed in its travel. HSS fires the flash with extremely precise timing in order to make the band produced by the shutter slit at each flash exactly join to the next -- but if the shutter travels faster than the camera's computer ...


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Results like that You can have if to use non-full *CR2. Canon camera (some) can to have three parameters of raw file, for example: cr2 (18 Mpix), cr2 (10 Mpix), cr2 (5 Mpix). And if You use second cr2 (or third) - Rawtherapee can`t understand it, but to use first - all be OK.


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Thank you for the help. These past few days I had tested both 50mmf1.4 and 35mmf2.. and at the end I decided to stick with 35mmf2. The reasons are as follows: The 50mm is really soft at f1.4 and starts to give sharp performance from f2.5. From f2.8 it is really sharp. The 35mm is really sharp from f2. If I buy a lens I would like to use it from the widest ...


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Sounds like you have it on Auto mode in a low light situation, or your battery may be getting low. Check those things first. If it's not low light or battery you may need a partial "Clean, Lubricate, Adjust" (CLA) maintenance or a repair.


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If you are planning on doing serious astrophotography I suggest using a good prime lens instead of a zoom. Corner sharpness and chroma control are very important. Also, read all the guides you can find and be prepared to purchase stacking software.


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I have had the same issues with usb powered camcorders, like the small cx440 sony camcorders, which are charged and powered up by attaching the included USB cable (attached to the camera) to a USB port. Well, it works with some cables (notably passive USB cables), but when I use it with "active" cables, it doesn't charge the battery, and it won't power up. ...


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Get a flat head screw driver and try to fit it in the slot, slowly


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Maybe there was something jammed inside the camera. Have you shaked the camera alot? If not then try to change batteries. Maybe the battery did not have the power to move the lens. If you have the confidence on this next step, when you turn on the camera, shake it hard so that the motor will get pushed and the lens should come right out.


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It's entirely a matter of opinion whether it's "good enough". Using a simple point-and-shoot camera on time-lapse and manual settings, I've made a video of a lunar eclipse that satisfied me and that others found interesting. It did not rival photos from the University of Toronto dragonfly array, though. Use what you have, learn how to make images and to ...


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From your description, it appears your baby broke some relatively delicate part in the lens mechanism -- possibly a gear tooth or sensor part. Given there is no practical or cost-effective option to repair cameras in this class (a repair would cost as much as replacement due to the cost of skilled labor), the only suggestion I can make is to take the ...


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If you've already taken the photo, you can convert CR2 files to JPG, using software such as Lightroom, Photoshop, raw.pics, or UFRaw. To skip this step next time, you can change your camera settings to shoot JPG instead of RAW. https://portraitsrefined.com/cr2-file/


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This happens with the T4i also it doesn't matter what type of battery used the camera just draws from it in the off state! I had to buy a grip to easily pull the battery when I'm not using the camera! The batteries last week's if not months when out of the camera but if I leave it in it's Dead in a couple days!!! I called Canon on this and they would not ...


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