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Note: from Wikipedia: The Canon EOS 2000D, known as the Rebel T7 in the Americas, as the Kiss X90 in Japan and as the 1500D in southeast Asia. No, you can't. At least, not according to the How to Send Your Canon EOS Rebel T7/2000D’s Pictures to the Computer article related to the Canon EOS Rebel T7/2000D For Dummies book: Your Canon EOS Rebel T7/2000D ...


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I'm working with Lightroom and its lens correction option - I also have the in-camera lens correction option enabled. Does the in-camera correction apply to images shot in raw format before exporting them from the camera? There is no need to be concerned about the possibility of applying lens correction twice. Although some "raw" formats do not contain ...


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The reason Lens Correction exists in processing software is that RAW is raw (as the name implies). Contrary to JPG, a RAW is not meant to be displayed but rather processed. See this informative topic for further thought on the nature of a RAW. To allow viewing the content of a RAW, most camera manufacturer embed a JPEG preview in the RAW file. That JPEG ...


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The gradient effect you are getting has nothing to do with the brand of flash, but rather the manner in which you are achieving hyper sync. HSS (High Speed Sync) is achieved by a burst of flash pops, where as hyper sync permits the use of a high shutter speed along with a single flash pop. What you are seeing here is a hyper sync situation that has been ...


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I’m trying to do similar. I bought an XProC and an X1RC so I can trigger a Canon 580EX Speedlight. I’m having issues. I thought it was the new X1 receiver so I had them send me another. Same issue. Can’t get the flash to fire. Has to be a setting I’m missing. The receiver is pretty straight forward. Channel and group. XPro set the same. Still nothing. The ...


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It all depends on a model and characteristics of a camera, not on the brand. You can buy two different models of different brands and they would make the same photos. For example this Nikon https://cameravs.com/Nikon-D5500 at $800 makes almost the same pisc as professional Canon https://cameravs.com/Canon-EOS-6D at $1700. The small differences is seen at ...


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You do not have a 1150 mAh (milliamp-hours) charger. There's no such thing. It might be an 1150 mA (milliamp) charger, which means it's only providing 1.15 amps of charging current. Some batteries require a minimum current to charge very well. My Samsung smartphone, for instance, requires a 1500mA charger. If I try to use a 700 mA (0.7A) or 1000 mA (1.0A) ...


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According to No Film School: Having Trouble Charging Canon LP-E6 DSLR Batteries? You May Not Be the Only One, the blinking light may indicate the battery cannot be charged. Likely, the charger has detected the battery voltage is outside the parameters the charger is designed for. Battery voltage varies with charge levels. Voltage measurement seems to be ...


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Magic Lantern is not yet fully available for the Canon EOS T5. It is still a "port in progress". Even so, it would not solve your problem. What you are seeing looks normal to me. I have noticed that these cameras tend to do that during Live View AF. It is your aperture changing, not the ISO. Even when shooting wide open with a f/1.8 lens, if you watch the ...


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What do you think the mirrorless RP can do for the type of photography you do that your current 6D Mark II can not? If you can't answer that question then you don't need to upgrade anything. If you are dissatisfied with your current photos and think that a change in gear will make you a better photographer, please see: Does the camera matter? When should ...


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I would say probably not. You should wait until they release a mirrorless camera with better specs. For example, the EOS RP has quite slow burst rate, and in burst, you only see the images and nothing about what happens between the images. (There is a high speed display option for showing what happens between the images, but that's only available for RF ...


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No, 300 is not important I mainly photograph portraits and nature. Canon I use outdoors. But I need more lighr


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I have the RF 24-240 lens for my EOS RP. I also have EF 24-105 f/4L mk1 lens. I don't have the RF 24-105 f/4L lens. The RF 24-240 lens has several quirks you need to know: Lack of weather sealing Lens hood needs to be bought separately Manual focus switch is missing and you need to set it in the camera menu The focus/control rings are combined into one The ...


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How important is "image quality" to you (sharpness, aberrations, distortion, light falloff, flaring, etc)? You can compare the lenses at The Digital Picture. Superzooms usually... Are more versatile. They cover a greater focal length range. Are more convenient. You don't have to change lenses. Are more fun. You can take pictures without worrying about ...


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A count of just 15 seems unlikely on a used camera! No, it won't turn off at some predetermined number. It's just, like an odometer on a car, an indicator of how much it's been used. Interesting when determining the resale price perhaps. But no, shutter replacement if it DOES fail is not a DIY job, and is very likely not economic.


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For what it's worth, here are tracking issues for popular open source raw converters: Darktable: https://github.com/darktable-org/darktable/issues/2170 Darktable's low-level "rawspeed" library: https://github.com/darktable-org/rawspeed/issues/121 Rawtherapee: https://github.com/Beep6581/RawTherapee/issues/5319 Libraw (another low-level library): current git ...


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The camera shutter is a mechanical part, and like all things in the universe, subject to eventual failure. You can see How many actuations are "too many actuations"? for some information on just how many clicks a typical shutter mechanism is good for (depending on the model, between 50,000 and 400,000). But note that these are just estimates based ...


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I recently bought a Canon 6D Mark II and had to upgrade to Lightroom CC 2015.12 / 6.12. The Mark II still works with CR2, but any previous versions of Lr won't recognise these, so I am afraid, your hope for further upgrades ends with Lightroom CC 2015.12 / 6.12 for that was the last upgrade you can get without having to buy a new license. As Adobe puts it "...


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The latest versions of DxO PhotoLab support CR3 files from the EOS R, EOS RP, Rebel SL3/250D, EOS M50, Powershot G7X Mark III, and Powershot G5X Mark II. Support for CR3 files from the 90D, M6 Mark II, and M200 will be included in updates scheduled to be released by DxO Labs in December, 2019. The latest versions of Adobe products that use ACR (LR, PS, ...


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The Godox XPRO-C and X1T-C wireless radio triggers are known to work with the Canon bodies that do not have an ISO compliant center pin. Of course your Yongnuo can't be controlled by Godox triggers. Unfortunately, none of the E-TTL compatible (which seems to be the key to working with a camera without a center pin) Yongnuo triggers use the same protocol ...


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I heavily recommend Canon DPP, because most other software don't have the lens support. For example, the Canon 24-240mm lens is not widely supported, except by Canon DPP. Also, Canon DPP is the only software that has support for digital lens optimizer, which is an important and major feature that is able to correct lens imperfections. By not using Canon DPP,...


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Optical triggering by the camera's built-in flash can work, but also has significant limitations and can be more frustration than it's worth. Theoretically, this can be triggered by radio off-camera, which would be a good use. Unfortunately, it seems that this Yongnuo model only works with triggers which also won't work with your camera. Therefore, I ...


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Don't use your YN560 IV in the hotshoe. Instead, use it as an Off Camera Flash. Bounce it off the ceiling or use it hand held. Use your 2000D built-in ETTL flash to trigger the S2 Optical Slave Mode on your YN560 IV. S1 mode fires when ever it sees a flash which is a problem with ETTL preflash. S2 mode fires on the second (Main) flash and ignores the ETTL ...


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FD lenses will be optimized for 35mm cameras, which makes them ideal for adapted use on a full frame (FX) camera. Arguably, there is another "sweet spot" when using them on an APS-C (DX) camera, because you will then only get the very best of the juicy center of the image circle. Do be aware that a 24MP APS-C sensor is extremely demanding of lens ...


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So - which system is best for use with FD lenses? Neither EF nor MFT are ideal for adapting FD lenses. To adapt FD to EF requires corrective optics with a 1.4x multiplier. MFT has a 2x crop factor. With a 0.72x focal reducer, this can be converted to 1.44x. If you intend to use adapted lenses extensively, consider an APS-C or full-frame mirrorless camera. ...


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I see the FD to MFT adaptor doubles the focal length, so does that mean it’s not worth it? None of my lenses would be particularly wide any more. So, uh... buy a wide angle lens or two to complement your existing lenses? On the other hand, I’m having difficulty finding resources for using FD lenses with an EF mount - surely if there’s a full frame ...


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There is a alternative way to find your camera shutter count without installing any firmware. Visit this Website and upload the last photo that you taken from your camera. You will get the results.


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There are currently 2 types of Canon STM lenses: Fast and silent Lead-Screw Type STM and slow and noisy Gear-Type STM. The Gear type STM lenses (40mm 2.8 STM and 50mm 1.8 STM) work fine in manual focus with the EF-M, but the Lead screw type lenses (10-18mm STM and 18-135mm STM) will not manually focus. (I also tried the new 18-135mm Nano USM and it also ...


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Superzoom cameras like the Canon model you mention are specialized to give medium quality at a very wide range of zoom settings. At 24mm equivalent (which is what most phone cameras are), they might actually be worse (smartphone lenses tend to be relatively sophisticated prime lenses, albeit tiny ones, optimized for exactly one focal length. They will beat a ...


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Normally I'd respond to questions like this with, "Buy either one. They're both good enough." But for astro work, there probably are at least three considerations you should be aware of. This is particularly the case since you have said in a comment that you are planning on using it with a 12 inch telescope, which usually means deep sky work rather than ...


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First, your price comparison is not right — as I look on Amazon and B&H Photo right now, both are right below $400, with a three dollar price advantage for the Nikon camera. That's not a difference to make a big deal of. Second, these automatic comparison sites are terrible. They don't use any human judgement and focus on emphasizing nitpicky ...


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For astrophotography, you'll be looking at low light performance. That requires a good fast lens (usually a prime), and the ability to have actually useful high ISO. The specs mention neither. The high ISO on Nikon might suggest the Nikon is better, but the high ISO could be just so noisy that it's useless. So, back to the researching stage: what is your ...


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I own a Canon Rebel T7i ... Is it a good idea to purchase a speed booster ...? There is no focal reducer available for your camera. ... should I just purchase a 35mm prime at f/1.4? Not all 35/1.4 lenses are the same. What do you need it to do? If you were to switch to a crop-sensor mirrorless system, focal reducers could expand the usefulness of ...


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Michael C gave you a really nice answer about the speed booster. But I wan to address the other question. Can anyone give any advice? Well, stop reading things about the "disadvantages" of a cropped sensor because they are bothering you for "some reason", but it does not look for any particular reason. Take your camera and shot. Enjoy taking photos, ...


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A speed booster does not change your sensor. Not in any shape, way, or form. It changes the size of the image circle projected by your lens, making it smaller. The usefulness of a speed booster is to combine lenses that cast large image circles, such as lenses made to be used on full frame cameras, with camera bodies that have smaller sensors. By reducing ...


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I recommend considering the Canon 24mm f/2.8 lens in addition to the 50mm nifty fifty. Ok, it's only f/2.8 but it's very small, cheap and also is sharp wide open. Compare that to a nifty fifty f/1.8 that becomes sharp only at around f/2.2 and the difference isn't very large. A 35mm f/1.4 lens is quite expensive. For the money, you will probably get at least ...


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I have 5 different cameras and phone of course. Sometimes and very often I don't take camera with me, that's why I use phone to shoot. There is of course difference between shootings, especially you see it when you zoom or cut a face from the picture you got - it'll be of worse quality. I like this Nikon https://cameravs.com/Nikon-D3S best of my cameras, I ...


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As @Tetsujin suggested in a comment, it looks like I do not need USB 3.0 to reliably control the camera with live view. I have tried to couple my USB 3.0 cable from camera with old 2.0 extension and connect it to PC. And it worked like a charm, I have not noticed any drop-downs or disconnects during live view. So buying long 2.0 active extension should be ...


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You can extend the Wifi range with a good antenna at one end (possibly the PC end). Technically that would be a Wifi dongle with a removable antenna (like possibly this one where you remove the provided antenna and connect a directional one (examples only, no quality implied). And with some luck the dongle has already more range with its provided antenna ...


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It's right near your maximum price (depending on the exchange rate you can get), but there is a non-optical 20m active USB 3.0 cable available. Depending on how much power the laptop/tablet you plug it into can supply, you may need to power it externally, but if that's the case, it only needs 5V @1000mA, so you can use any commonly available USB battery ...


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Consider a remote triggering option, and solving the 'live view' thru some other option. There are plenty of affordable and expensive triggering options that will work comfortable at 50m even with obstacles. Examples include the Pocketwizard line of wireless triggers. Of course, none of these solutions supports live view, but you can achieve something like ...


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While this could be a Lightroom Classic bug, there is a way to "fix" it. In the Develop Module, go to Lens Corrections, change the lens profile to Adobe (Canon EF 17-40mm f/4 L USM), then select Save New lens profile defaults from the Setup combobox located below the Enable Profile Corrections checkbox. Newly imported photos taken with that lens should now ...


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The reason there is a separate profile is because prior to the 1D X series, Canon's 1D series were 1.3X APS-H cameras that had a different field of view from either their full frame 1Ds and 5D series or their APS-C 1.6X crop bodies when using the same lens(es). Adobe should more properly label it something such as [EF 17-40mm f/4 L (1.3X APS-H)]. While ...


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Is the "Lock" switch near the bottom on the right side of the back of the camera slid to the right in the 'Lock' position? If so, is the control you are trying to use to change the aperture selected under Custom Function C.Fn3: Others → Multi function lock? By default, the rear 'Quick Control Dial' on the back of the camera is locked by the Lock switch. ...


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It sounds like the scene your were framing was outside the operating range of your 80D's meter. It's rated for EV 1-20. At ISO 100, EV 1 is equal to f/1 for 1/2 second.¹ The maximum ISO for the 80D is 25,600. That's 8 stops higher than ISO 100. f/8 is six stops darker than f/1. You report that 30 seconds was a good exposure time for ISO 25,600 and f/8....


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A lot has to do with how the "presets" are written and at what stage in the imaging processing pipeline they act upon the image. There can be a wide variation from one "preset" to the next. "Presets" are merely someone else's list of settings applied in a certain order determined by them when they recorded the preset. "Presets" usually assume that the ...


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You can't change the focal length by script because AFAIK there are no DSLR lenses wit an electric zoom, so the camera itself cannot control the zoom. You would need an external rig with a motor to rotate the zoom ring on the lens, and control that motor from the same script that controls the other parameters.


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I assume the horizontal focal length in this video should be around 35-50mm on full-frame. You own a APS-C sensor size camera with a crop factor of 1.5 which means you can achieve this field of view with your lens at approx. 24-35mm. The thing is the "mood" of the clip is not only about the focal length. Notice the blur of the background in most of the ...


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