72

Ok, since you've asked for creative ways, here we go. Place the id card at the left side of the frame, take an under exposed photo with a long shutter time (5 seconds), fire a flash, turn the id card around and place it at the right side of the frame, fire the the flash a second time. We now have both sides of the id card in a single shot without any ...


47

Well, you asked for creative, you didn't say practical: Gravitational lensing. Place the card edge on and behind a sufficiently massive body. Position the card and camera correctly and both faces will be visible, albeit substantially redshifted, one side worse than the other. Obtaining the sufficiently massive body (neutron star or black hole) to do so ...


38

Split the card along its thickness and photograph the halves side by side. Glue them back together if necessary. Alternatively, lose the card, have it replaced, and then find the original. Photograph the reverse of one with the obverse of the other.


38

What you are describing is shutter lag. When you press the shutter release, the camera must focus before exposing the image. There are many ways of avoiding this. The easiest is to half-press the shutter so that the camera focuses, then press fully down when you want to take the image. Because the half-press will focus, there is less or no lag when you ...


35

tell me whats happening Considering that the White Thing seems to affect an entire band at the top of the image, I don't think it's a light leak. A leak that happened to shine evenly across the entire width of the sensor would be hard to explain. Instead, it looks like the shutter is getting a little bit stuck near the end of its travel across the sensor. ...


27

I carry a jar lid gripper around in my kit which has always done the trick for me when I need a little extra, well, grip. The other 'trick' that I have learned over the years is that most people's default reaction to a stuck filter is to get a really good grip on the filter and just try to torque it off. The problem with this approach is that the filter ...


27

Because that rainbow is partially obscured by your subject, I would tend to believe that it has nothing to do with any of your equipment. Rather, there was something in the room acting as a prism and diffracting light into a rainbow pattern that just happened to fall within the frame of what you were shooting. It might be that the source of the light was ...


26

The solution is simple. Give up on that sissy 35mm or digital stuff, and get your hands on some film for real photographers: 4x5 film! Then all you have to do is go in a dark room, wrap the film around the ID, and make a contact print (err... contact negative?) with a single strobe flash! If you can tune the flash correctly, there should be a difference ...


26

Well, it seems obvious that the film did not advance between shots. Whether that's because of user error (film not installed right so it didn't catch on the advancing mechanism) or a hardware issue with the advance mechanism not working properly can't really be determined without more information and/or inspection of the camera... Try taking a couple shots ...


25

Short answer: Current autofocus systems only work when the AF area contains high contrast. The places where it doesn't work don't contain enough, and the areas which do work, do. Here's what's going on in more detail: There are two different types of autofocus systems in modern cameras. One is the contrast-detection AF, which is used in most point and ...


22

This is normal because in the day time, the sky is usually the brightest part of the scene. If you lower the exposure by applying negative exposure compensation, your sky will get darker and more blue. This will cause other elements in the image to darken and some may end under-exposed. This is because a change in exposure is global. What you need is to ...


22

Looking at your samples, the answer seems clear to me: that's not grainy, that is, actually, out of focus. Here's a 1:1 crop of your wide-open image: It seems pretty apparent that the wooden sign is sharp but the dog isn't, and the appearance of the blur looks completely in line with what one would expect from out-of-focus blur, not noise or grain. ...


21

It can be done with a single shot on a smart phone. In this photo I stuck my "ID" (business card) on the end of a pen and started a panoramic shot with an iPhone. Once the card was out of shot, I flipped it and moved it so it would be back in shot again. I cropped the photo to remove superfluous background. Important to keep the card steady! You can see ...


20

I can not imagine damage that would impact focusing without visible damage to the packaging or the camera. These things are pretty sturdy. you would have to damage the mirror or shutter box to really have an impact. So I suspect user error. These images appear to be in focus, but perhaps not where the photographer expected. I see areas in focus in both. ...


20

Attach the ID card to a spinning arm which shows both sides of the card in alternation, and take a photo with a long enough exposure that both sides are visible. For better picture quality, illuminate the card with a strobe light which is synchronized with the spinning arm. Illuminate the ID card from the back with a light strong enough to shine all the ...


20

Doing double exposures with the k1000 requires that you cock the shutter using the lever while simultaneously holding down the release on the camera bottom. This allows the shutter to cock while not advancing the film. Check to make sure that this release button isn’t sticking in.


19

I would say at least for most practical purposes the answer is no. First of all, you only get intense heat where the light comes (at least close to) in focus, which does not happen inside the lens. Second, you only get heat when the light is absorbed -- but a typical lens transmits virtually all the light, which translates to absorbing essentially none of ...


19

You don't have a light leak in your camera body. Your examples demonstrate the classic symptom of a slow second shutter curtain. Your second shutter curtain is sticking at the end of it's transit across the sensor. The fix may require only a bit of cleaning and lubrication, or it may require a new shutter assembly. Unfortunately, a shutter replacement ...


18

Re. your answer - you don't have to have the focus set to Manual just because you're in Manual mode, but autofocus systems generally don't work in the dark. Therefore the camera will fail to focus and refuse to take a picture. By switching to manual you remove that problem. Switching to Auto mode may allow autofocus because it turns the AF illuminator on. ...


18

If you only see the effect when the D7500 is turned on but not when the camera is turned off you are almost certainly seeing near-infrared light recorded by the camera taking the photo. It's fairly common for most digital cameras to record such light. The easiest example I can think of are the near countless photos people have posted in various forums of an ...


16

If you're out and about and this happens then carry a couple of elastic bands! These allow you to get a proper grip on the slim sides of the filter so you can remove it. Often they are stuck not because they are jammed on but because you cannot get enough of a grip to apply enough pressure to start turning them. A very simply, cheap, and more importantly ...


16

You certainly knocked the diopter adjustement out of place. It is there to compensate for people who need eye-glasses. With your eye looking through the viewfinder, adjust the knob on the upper right side until you see what is in focus clearly sharp.


15

The only sound that would come from the sensor itself would be a self-cleaning function, which only happens when you run the self cleaning, or turn the camera on/off. The sensor vibrates to shake off dust. This would not be happening when you are shooting. When you half press, the sounds you might hear would be from the lens AF motor or image ...


15

You're hearing the IS start to activate.


15

When you shoot monochrome as RAW files, the monochrome setting is just meta-data in the RAW file. The raw data from the sensor is still the same. You will only see the monochrome effect when you view the file in a program that supports the monochrome flag. Obviously what you are using to preview the images doesn't support it. The program from Nikon for ...


14

You're exactly right — it's the same thing as a monitor pixel error, but on your camera's sensor rather than on an LCD screen. * You can either fix it in post-processing (automatically, with many RAW-processing packages) or have it mapped out with the camera's firmware. If you're lucky, your camera model includes a built-in feature to do that yourself in ...


14

Troubleshooting a lens: Lens Toggle: Make sure the toggle on the lens is firmly in the AF position. Contacts: Check the metal contacts on the lens to make sure they are clear of debris and are clean. Ring: Make sure the focus ring isn't obstructed. It should move freely when on MF and become more firm when on AF (for your lens, not all lenses do this). ...


14

The first thing you need to ask yourself is, "Am I sure the only damage to the lens is to the mounting flange?" The second thing you need to ask yourself is, "Considering the cost of a new EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 is only around $200 and a used one can be found for half that, why would I consider sending the lens in for a repair that will likely cost near that ...


13

Unless your unit is defective, by default most DSLRs will not release the shutter if: Focus has not been acquired. The flash is charging The buffer is full 1 and 2 can be over-ridden using the custom settings. If you go to MF or AF-C (which defaults to Release-Priority) you should not experience this due to #1. If the flash is down (and no flash is ...


13

There is definitely something very wrong here. That's not a focus or DOF issue, but looks like the lens suffers from extremely strong field curvature. It's normal for a lens to be sharper in the center than around the edges, and this effect gets stronger with wide open aperture and at the extreme ends of the zoom range (your last sentence indicates that you ...


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