40

Stars don't show up voluntarily on a photo. You need to tweak them a bit using photo editing tools on a computer. Best if you use RAW file format, and RAW-processing software to do this. JPEGs can be tweaked to show more stars, but with a lot less working room and result being of lesser quality. The likely JPEG image you get with the exposure settings you ...


17

That is normal. The camera doesn't know how many images there is left, as images take up different amount of space depending on how much detail they contain. So the camera displays a guesstimate based on the free space on the card and an average size for images taken with your current settings. If you take images with large areas of sky or other smooth ...


17

You certainly knocked the diopter adjustement out of place. It is there to compensate for people who need eye-glasses. With your eye looking through the viewfinder, adjust the knob on the upper right side until you see what is in focus clearly sharp.


16

They don't test every unit. It isn't necessary. They test some units. Having a shutter count of zero is perfectly normal and not a concern. I have read anecdotal evidence that people who have owned dozens of DSLR cameras have always received cameras that have a shutter count of zero. I believe it to be few and far between that people receive units that have ...


12

The problem with the prime 35mm is that in order to frame your shot properly, you'll need good mobility. Which you may not always have in a busy and crowded car show. So I would give one point to the 18-200 for that: It'll let you frame your shots even if you can't get yourself at the exact right position you'd need with the 35. Then, the thing is: it's a ...


11

The D7000 has dual card slots. If you mistakenly didn't have a card in either, then you would have been in "demo mode", which is something you can use to look at shots in the camera store to evaluate the camera. Images are stored in-memory, but you cannot download them, only preview them on the LCD. Usually the LCD will display "DEMO MODE" to indicate ...


10

The look you are after is dependant on lighting and post processing rather than lenses. You want to shoot with soft but directional lighting so create strong textures within your image, directly sunlight through hazy cloud is good for this. As is the "magic hour". In post you need to blend the colour channels looking for the most contrasty mix. Then its a ...


10

Simple answer to your main question is: The Dynamic-range of the sensors of current digital camera is not yet a match for the dynamic range of human eye's sensor (aka retina). Detailed answer of "how to bring it up" will bring all the techniques on the table. The majors are: Widest possible aperture on lens, if possible f/1.8 or f/1.4 Widest angle: To ...


9

I used that 80-200 for quite a few years, and currently use the first iteration of the the 70-200. I think the 80-200 is a steal! It's optically very good, built well, and focuses quickly on a capable body. I don't hesitate to recommend it in the least. (Regarding autofocus: on an N65 and D50 it's not slow to focus, but it's clearly not fast. On an F100, ...


9

No, cameras do not exhibit back-focusing issues. Lenses do not either. What exhibits back focusing issues is a particular camera and lens combination. This can happen with any camera that uses Phase-Detect Autofocus which includes all current DSLRs and some SLDs, notably those from Canon, Nikon and most from Sony. High-end cameras like the D7000 have ways ...


8

VR isn't free, it can add hundreds to the cost of a lens, so that is a factor in the price difference. It can also be a real advantage at the long end, though it's less important at the shorter end. However, the real difference in the two lenses is the quality of the glass. The 70-200mm has 7 ED elements versus 3 for the other. The ED elements are high ...


8

That count is a conservative estimate of how many pictures you can fit in the remaining space on your card, based on the maximum file size you could see with a JPEG Large. Depending on the image data, your JPEG might end up compressing better, which would mean the count would go down by less than 1 picture.


8

There are several issues related to Phase Detection Auto Focus performance. You first must determine what the source of the problem is. It could be caused by one of several factors, or a combination of some or all of them. If you also have the problem when using the Contrast Detection AF in Live View, then the problem is somewhere else. Front/Back focusing. ...


8

This kind of fast then slow performance (as you correctly guessed) will be because of the image buffer filling up. Using a faster card will help until you reach the limit of the camera's circuitry - you may have reached this limit. Even if your camera's performance is faster than the SD card. It's quite possible that some of the card's 'bandwidth' is taken ...


7

The shutter-count is a good start. If you are buying from someone, you can ask to see the receipt. Here at least, photo stores print the serial number on it. That will give you a date of purchase. If buying from a store, call Nikon support and ask if the serial number has been registered for warranty. There is perhaps no foolproof way of removing all doubts ...


7

I have a few general comments that might help to either explain what you are seeing or improve this test for the next run: You are really trying to achieve macro like images it seems, and the Nikon 18-105mm VR is not a macro lens. The closest you can get is about 18inches and the maximum magnification ratio of 1:5. For macro you want 1:1. The images on ...


7

If you want to manually focus, best to set them both to M it tells the body not to try to AF, and also will allow you to take an image even if focus isn't perfect it tells the lens that you are manually focusing, so will allow the focus ring to turn freely pressing the shutter release will not attempt to focus the lens in any way If you want to use AF, set ...


7

Set your Nikon D7000 to auto focus using AF-S and select one of the 9 cross-type focus points as the only active point. Set your aperture to the widest (lowest number) your lens will allow. Place the point you have selected over the part of the scene you want to selectively focus. Half-press the shutter button to lock focus on your subject and continue to ...


7

Absolutely. There is a great dongle+app, offered by TriggerTrap. I purchased it and I'm super happy with it. If I recall correctly, the app is available for iOS and Android. EDIT: Some of the free app's options are as follows: Simple cable release Press and hold Press and lock Timed release Timelapse TimeWarp (time lapse + acceleration) DistnaceLapse (...


6

First make sure the metal contacts on the card are clean, and reformat the card in the camera using the menu. I assume you've done these things but it doesn't hurt to double check. Since you get the same behavior in both card slots, it seems likely the card is damaged. They are relatively cheap — get a new one, preferably a higher-end name brand. If you ...


6

A back-of-camera LCD is not designed, and should not be used, for gauging exposure based on the brightness of the LCD. As noted by Dreamager in a comment, you can adjust the brightness of the LCD and that might better approximate how things look on your computer. Whether or not your computer is displaying an image accurately depends on if it's been ...


5

Yes, indeed the D7000 has truly outstanding image quality and you are limited by the lens in your case. Not only is not good quality but it is also the wrong lens for your needs. For sports you need a fast and long lens and those tend to be expensive. The usual working lens to get started is the Nikkor 70-200m F/2.8. If that is above your budget consider ...


5

One of my friends who (like I) have a D7000 have had problems where images on the SD-card in the first slot got corrupted. He bought a new SD card and had the same problem. When talking to Nikon he was told to upgrade the firmware to version A 1.02, B 1.03. He tried that and has had no problems since. You can find the A 1.02, B 1.03 firmware here: http://...


5

You are looking for the ever popular Nikon AF-S 18-200mm f/2.0 ED VR II for $500USD. Of course we all know that it doesn't exist, but it would be great if it did. I believe you will find a great deal of information in this existing thread: What are the tradeoffs when replacing two zoom lenses with a superzoom? It is a very common scenario. We start with a ...


5

If cost is no constraint: I replaced my kit lens (18-105) of the D7000 with the Nikon 17-55 2.8 and I am very happy with my choice. Optically it is a very good lens, but depending on you requirements there are less costly alternatives that could be acceptable too. However, what was key for me is 2.8 and the build quality since it is my default lens. If you ...


5

I THINK it may be the secondary mirror stuck down - Attached to the bottom of the main mirror, which is semi-silvered, is a secondary mirror pointing down. If this is stuck down when the main mirror flips up, it will let light in from the viewfinder and possibly reflect light back in at the sensor. set your camera to "lock mirror up for sensor cleaning" ...


5

Both appear pretty sharp to me right at the spot that is in-focus. You just have pretty wide apertures thus pretty narrow Depth of Field, so most of the image isn't in focus. (The second image claims f/8 in the caption, but shows f/5.6 in the EXIF data.) Also, I believe with that lens, f/5.6 is wide open at the 105 end, and lenses typically aren't their ...


5

Your camera has not been damaged at all. The battery is not heavy and 20cm is not a great height. Moreover it seems that you are unable to find any fault with the camera. I have dropped my camera 3-4 times. It has some scratches but it is in perfect working order. If you know it hit the button, as long as the button is still functioning, there is not much ...


5

You'll also lose the dual card slot, if that's important to you. The D800 and D600 have it, but the D700 did not. If you want full frame, then it's certainly not a bad upgrade to go from a D7000 to a D700. Along with FX, you do get better AF and build quality. You talk about the coverage at wide-angle. True you don't have the crop factor, but there is a ...


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