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Actually 1/125 is half of 1/60, ±0.06 f-stop.
It should be obvious by looking at shutter speeds that they were chosen to be the reciprocal of nice round numbers. Start with 1 second and keep dividing it by 2. Note that you missed the discrepancy between 1/16 s and 1/15 s. If you kept going in strict mathematical multiples of 2, then 1/60 s should ...
38
but why i can see little bit of orange color with shutter speed 1/400 ?
My best guess is that you had the camera set to automatic white balance (AWB). In the 1/200s shot, the moon was bright enough to easily be the brightest thing in the frame, and the white balance algorithm decided that that object was most likely to be white. In the 1/400s shot the ...
35
The difference between the "actual" shutter speeds at powers of 2 (32, 16, 8, 4, 2, 1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/16, 1/32, 1/64, 1/128, 1/256, 1/512, 1/1024, etc.) and the rounded numbers we use (30, 15, 8, 4, 2, 1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500, 1/1000, etc.) is so trivial as to be beyond the limits of the vast majority of cameras in existence ...
35
There is no reason whatsoever that you need to shoot a static object from a tripod with 1/100s or 1/200s shutter speed. The shutter speed has nothing whatsoever to do with "soft focus": it just has to do with susceptibility to movements of camera and subject. Neither camera nor subject move; in fact, for shooting from a tripod you should disable image ...
29
The easiest way to solve this problem is to use a neutral-density filter. They are essentially neutral grey filters that cut down on the light reaching the film or digital sensor. Good ones are fairly expensive, because they are surprisingly hard to manufacture.
Another option is to shoot in more favourable conditions, like overcast days or really early ...
27
It depends on what you mean by "highest".
If you have enough light, then the first thing you should do is to reduce the ISO setting to the minimum, so that you can get as much light as possible on the sensor1. Lower ISO means less noise, more dynamics.
If there is still enough light, then close the diaphragm a bit compared to its maximum possible aperture (...
26
Use the ambient light to illuminate the waterfall. Use a fairly powerful flash to illuminate your human subject. The quick duration of the flash will freeze her, especially if she remains fairly still over the long exposure. The narrow aperture you will need to properly expose with the flash will also give better depth of field so that the water fall is also ...
26
The first step is to find a situation where the atmosphere is right for such effects to appear to the naked eye - whether it's steam or fog or dust or whatever else in the air that is reflecting the light. Once you have that, the lens, aperture, shutter and ISO don't matter as much, as long as the combination chosen results in a good exposure and the ...
25
Shutters are probably more accurate/reliable now, but more importantly with digital photography you get instant feedback so you can tell right away if there are any exposure problems, you're not going to ruin several rolls of film before you find out.
I had a 1DsII that had a shutter which suddenly became unreliable at anything faster than 1/500s, I ...
25
What you are looking for is a ND (Neutral Density) filter.
To illustrate, here is an example of a photo taken in daylight in a street with a ND1000 filter. The filter allowed a shutter speed of 6 seconds. With no filter, with the same aperture and ISO, the shutter speed would have been approximately 6/1000 = 0.006 seconds (no "ghosts" effect).
Contrary to ...
25
The blur is caused by the people moving while you were taking the photograph with a slow shutter. Honestly, I think it improves this particular photo a lot: it shows that the people are dancing, rather than just standing in weird positions.
If you want to, the only way to avoid it is to use a faster shutter speed. This necessarily involves compromises. If ...
24
Those listed are full stops. Most cameras allow you to increment shutter speed and aperture in half-stops or one-third stops, and you can select intermediate values manually.
If you have the camera set to half-stops, then you'll have 1/350 between 1/250 and 1/500.
If you have 1/3 stop increments set, you'll have 1/320 and 1/400
To work these out, a full ...
23
As was said, the mechanical shutter has speed limitations. As to the slit, try to imagine without it. Suppose the shutter opens by moving from top to bottom of frame. And then of course, it has to close from bottom to top. So it is open longer on the top side than on the bottom side, which is uneven exposure.
Modern fast curtains might move about 7 ...
22
It's hard to really tell from the small versions here — which is a lesson in itself, because at 1280x850, which is a perfectly fine online viewing size, the differences really don't matter that much.
However, in this case, I think Auto probably did make some better choices.
Shutter Speed
You picked ¹⁄₆₀th of a second. This is fine, but probably slightly ...
21
The camera is likely setting the shutter speed to match the flash sync speed of the camera. If it was set any faster, you would get black bands of underexposure across your shots, or at the fastest speeds a completely black shot. This is because the shutters would have finished moving to some degree before the flash completed its fire.
21
Thought experiment time. Assume we'd like a minimum exposure of 1/2000 of a second (500 microseconds) on a 35mm full frame camera. We have a single 'shutter' to move out of the way, and back.
We'll tolerate one side of the picture being 10% more exposed than the other, so that means we allow 50μs to move the shutter back and forth. So the shutter has to ...
19
Camera motion is usually measured in terms of angular size or arc: that is, how many degrees, minutes, seconds of arc the optical axis moves during the time the shutter is open. How much the same amount of motion affects the image is also determined by the angular size of the Field of View (FoV) yielded by a particular focal length and film/sensor size.
For ...
19
The Factors
There is an equation, and by convention, it's set up to be really simple. There are basically five factors to consider together:
Aperture — the size of the opening which lets light in,
Shutter Duration (or shutter speed) — the amount of time the sensor (or film) gets that light,
Sensitivity (or ISO, or sometimes "film speed") — how quickly the ...
17
why does shutter speed modify picture sharpness/detail? Why do pictures get darker with faster shutter speeds, and brighter with slower shutter speeds?
These things happen because the light sensor in the camera doesn't measure the intensity of light instantaneously, but rather measures all the light received during the entire exposure. You could say that ...
16
The problem is the read-out speed. You cannot read the entire sensor fast enough for this to work in the general case. Even if you could. there would also be a detrimental effect on image quality as you would be applying read-out noise over and over again.
At least with CMOS sensors you can read at random locations but with CCD sensors each row is shifted ...
16
Calibrating your Shutter Speed
Unless you are performing photographic telemetry or a variety of other niche scientific measurements, the only reason to know the exact length of your exposure is to achieve accurate exposure. Although it is rare for a modern camera's shutter to drift by a stop or more and still continue to function, old war horses with spring ...
14
I initially marked this as a duplicate of How can I avoid star trails without an expensive tracking mount?, but on reflection, I think the answer here is simply the assumption in that one: to get a night-sky exposure longer than 30 seconds or so, you have to track the motion of the sky, and a fancy tracking mount is the way to do that.
It looks (from the ...
14
In most scenarios the extra stop between 1/4000 and 1/8000 second will make very little difference in terms of freezing motion. 1/4000 will freeze all but the fastest objects you are likely to encounter, and even 1/2000 will freeze world class human athletes and most animals at typical shooting distances.
Where the extra stop will come in handy is when you ...
14
Apart from using an ND filter, you might be able to achieve the desired effect by taking multiple photos and then blending them in post processing. Either an automatic blend with "ghost removal" might work, or layering the images and manually masking/unmasking selectively (in effect "painting out" the people).
All of this pretty much requires a tripod for ...
14
Honestly, the biggest problem I see in your picture is not the blur, but the badly clipped highlights. Next time, try shooting at, say, -1 EV (which will also reduce the exposure time, and thus the blur, a bit) and adjusting the exposure afterwards to get softer highlights. This does increase noise in the shadows a bit, as if you were using a higher ISO ...
14
No, it is not normal. One thing that Manual mode is used for is to take multiple photographs with the same exposure parameters which is very useful in many situations. There are a few cases where it may happen though. If you are bracketing for exposure, then one of the exposure-parameters, usually shutter-speed, is changed between frames until the bracket is ...
13
f/16 will give you sharper image than f/1.4. Yes, diffraction does kick-in at f/16, but it's still not as bad as the optical flaws that are pronounced at f/1.4 in pretty much every f/1.4 lens out there. (see: tests of your particular lens, resolution charts)
Also lens coma and astigmatism are worse when lens is wide open than when it's stopped-down. That's ...
13
First, I'll talk about what cameras do normally, then about how motion affects this operation.
In order for an image to be sharp and in focus, all light coming from a single point on the object being photographed must fall on a single point on the film or sensor. If you take a picture of a face, you want all of the light reflecting off the left eye fall on ...
13
Image Stabilizations only compensates for camera movements.
IS has no effect on subject movements. None. Zero. Nada.
If your subject is moving, only a shorter exposure time ("faster shutter speed") will reduce the amount of blur caused by the subject's movement.
Some related questions here at Photography SE for further reading:
What is more important, f-...
13
Is there any reason to change the ISO manually, rather than have it set automatically?
The primary reason to set ISO, along with shutter time and aperture, manually would be to totally control exposure manually rather than let the camera set exposure. Not every scene needs to be rendered with an overall average brightness of medium gray. Left to its own ...
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