45

Here's an image that may help people to visualise why many lens hoods are petal-shaped.


12

tl; dr. Blend a "panorama" from only slightly rotated exposures and make sure no flare is included in the final result. It's not possible to optically remove this type of flare when shooting into the sun (though different lenses have different levels of flare resistance). However, there are other effective ways to get rid of it. What you can do is take ...


12

No. Adding filters will only make this worse. The reflection in your picture is not actually in the scene, so there is nothing a filter can get rid of. The ghost image is caused by reflection between lens elements. Therefore, adding another possible surface light can bounce off of will make things worse. You might wonder why light is bouncing between ...


12

In my opinion that "flare" is caused by a dirty lens. I'm guessing you attempted to clean it, by using a wipe, but failed to properly clean it, which is why the flare has directionality. Try using a micro fibre cloth. I recently bought some that are designed for use in the kitchen, and it set me back by only a single dollar. I use these for cleaning my ...


11

I agree with what Hermann said, but have a different answer as to how to avoid this. Expose properly. Notice that the blue smudge is much dimmer than the moon, which is so bright that it is totally blown out and even has a quite visible halo around it. Some of that may be caused by atmospheric effects, but I also suspect blooming due to extreme over ...


11

I have done three things in the past to deal with this. Compose the photo in such a way that the lens flare is attractive... that's a great choice for your example above because the sun is IN the photo. Some lenses have an attractive flare (many don't) Use lens hoods, paper, or your hand to block the light that is causing the flare. This works when the ...


10

It is "lens flare" in the first, but in the second, it is the reflection of the black internal parts of the front of your lens which are illuminated by the direct sun reflecting off the inside of your UV filter.


10

Veiling glare is light that's not intended to be part of the image, per se, but ends up on the recording medium (film or sensor) anyway. It's caused by reflections and scattering of light by optical elements and the lens barrel. This produces an overlay of general brightness, which raises what should be the darkest parts, reducing overall image contrast. ...


9

A Flair for flare. Flare reduces the contrast of the image captured. It can affect the image overall or selectively. I'm going to make a great leap of faith and guess that you are after selective flare such as a round or symmetrical shape that plays across the image. Your concept of what is beautiful and desirable versus undesirable is personal and will ...


9

It's a reflection of the image of the sun in the sensor, with the PDAF focus pixel covers reflecting brightly. See: https://www.metabunk.org/orbs-with-dots-focus-pixels-reflection-in-sun-reflection-lens-flare.t8872/


8

What causes lens flare along specific axes? This answer assumes the 1st and 3rd images are caused by the same phenomenon, and image 2 is caused by something different. Image #2 To my eyes, this flare appears to be caused by a smudged front element. This can easily happen when one attempts to wipe the element clean, but doesn't get all of the (presumably) ...


8

Diffraction spikes are caused by diffraction at the edge of the aperture. The number of spikes relates to the number of blades and the intensity of the effect relates to the exact shape of the blades and how closed down the aperture is. On the other hand, lens flare is reflections within the lens itself. Visible as a clear rendition of the internals of the ...


7

There is a distinction between HAZE and flare - for the purposes of this I will cover FLARE only. Lens flare is caused by light from a particularly bright source such as the sun or a bulb directly striking the lens element surfaceS at an off-centre axis, and not being REFRACTED but instead being REFLECTED either off the back surface of the lens element, OR ...


7

The "rainbow effect" is lens flare. Point and shoot cameras as especially susceptible to lens flare as they often are made out of low quality materials. They also typically do not have any type of coatings on the lens to help with lens flare. Additional information: What causes lens flare? How can you avoid/minimize lens flare when shooting into the sun?


7

You have a light smudge or a very minor abrasion on the surface of your lens, running at 90 degrees to the direction of the highlight smearing you are seeing. It probably won't be visible on the lens unless you get the angle of the light just right. If it's a smudge, a good cleaning (with a good cleaner - use tissues or fabric designed for the purpose and a ...


7

This effect is caused by refractions and reflections of light directly approaching the camera. Since it's happening on-axis you can't tame it using your hand as a lens hood as you've noted and anything you use will need to be between you and the light source. While you might find that an appropriately set polariser helps I wouldn't bet my house on it. It ...


7

The reason the background is not dark is because there is light shining on it. The same light sources that you are attempting to record directly are also illuminating the areas around the light and those areas are reflecting some of that light to the camera. Additionally, The highlights of the lights themselves are so overexposed that they appear almost pure ...


7

Don't use the UV filter. Not only is it completely useless while using an actual solar filter, it is actively hurting your image by creating reflections. Even if it is the highest-quality UV filter with multi-coating, the strong and contrasty image of the sun will bounce off the lens (usually the front element), to the filter's flat surface, and back to the ...


7

That is most likely the result of an internal reflection between different elements in your lens. Modern coatings can reduce and/or eliminate a lot of internal reflections, but all bets are off when you have an extremely bright light source in the frame.


6

If the index mark on your photo was at the center of the original image, the purplish blotch above and to the right of it is a ghosting of the bright light source the same distance to the lower left of it. Ghosting is caused by the light from extremely bright sources (relative to the rest of the scene) reflecting off the front surface of a lens element or ...


6

This is lens flare in the best case and a mirrored ghost image caused by the UV filter in the worst case. Or the other way around because you could fix the one of them by removing the filter. But obtaining a better lens is more expensive. :-) Ghosts caused by filters are typically exactly opposed of the light source that is mirrored. In the event that ...


6

It is a lens flare, a secondary and dimmer image of the bright light bulb caused by a part of the light not making it straight to the sensor but reflecting around inside the lens first.


6

Catadioptric lenses are lenses that combine both refractive and mirror elements. A simple mirror lens with no refractive elements is not a catadioptric lens. I've never seen a commercially available photographic lens with only simple mirrors, though. Simple front coated mirror lenses, such as those used in reflector telescopes, that are clean do not ...


5

So.... there's this joke: Guy goes to the doctor. Says "Doc, it hurts when I do this." Doctor gives him a long look back, says: "Don't do that." This is kind of the same. Lens flare is intrinsic to the optics, and while some handle it better than others, shooting directly into the sun is a very hard situation for any lens. Since you can't change the lens ...


5

Lens flare happens when light internally reflects within the lens itself. There are a few possible sources of internal reflection. You could get it from using a non-digital lens on a digital camera and getting reflection off the sensor (doesn't seem like the case here), you could get it off a filter placed on the front of the lens (light tends to bounce ...


5

The easiest way is to create a new layer and put the lens flare in the new layer and blend it with the photo. That way you don't even have to mask it and can work on the lens flare alone and toggle it on and off to easily review the effect of the lens flare. The second half of this video describes such a method in an educational way.


5

The "diffraction spikes" you are seeing is the result of using a narrow aperture. Some folks refer to such effects as "sunstars." The light travelling through your lens' aperture diaphragm is interacting with the blades of the aperture. The number of spikes you see is determined by the number of aperture blades. Lenses with even numbers of blades have the ...


5

This looks to me like reflection from the sensor to the rear element and back again. Film is less reflective than digital sensors so some older lenses have either no anti reflective coating on the rear element or have a coating on that element which is not as effective at cutting out reflections from the sensor side. If I'm right, this won't happen using ...


5

Yes, that's because the adapter you're using - it is not possible to adapt Minolta MC/MD lenses to Canon EF while retaining focus to infinity without an adapter that has corrective optics (and additional crop factor) due to focal flange distance of Minolta mount. So what you see is a reflection of the adapter glass element. I've never seen reflection like ...


4

Panavision offer dedicated lenses attributed to more desirable lens flare - this all comes down to the coating and treatment of the glass: http://www.panavision.com/content/spherical-specialty Additionally, in films such as Star-Trek, Super-8 etc, they have hot lights just off camera to add glares already attributed to the on-camera light sources. Though ...


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