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The banding is caused by differences in exposure across frames. You have several options to address the problem.
Use the same exposure settings for every image. Manually set aperture, ISO, and shutter speed.
If there is a huge variation of brightness levels across the scene, you can take bracketed exposures and process as HDR prior to stitching, as long ...
3
Adjustment LAYERS are non-destructive in Photoshop. You can delete or disable them at any time and get back to where you started w/o any losses. Adjustment layers only add data to the file; as shown by the file size (document size can be selected in lower left of the UI).
The problem with 8bit vs 16bit is the accuracy of the math (digital edits are all ...
2
Upon viewing his portfolio at the link you provided, my first thought was push processing. In push processing, one typically underexposes the shot (that is, meters and set exposure as if the the film were a higher ISO than it really is), then compensate in the darkroom by overdeveloping the film to account for the underexposed shot.
Push processing tends to ...
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I always do the color grading stuff before, because if done after retouching it can make the editing more visible. The edited parts are always a bit different from their surroundings and will react differently to the color tools.
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You should avoid having photoshop do anything automatically if you can. As long as you have a good monitor and good eyes, everything you do by eye will be far better than what software can do. Turn off all image correction in your camera and do levels, contrast, and saturation by eye.
Use the fewest pics you can use to make it look good as far as ...
1
SOLVED! I found Bruno Postle's solution (https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/hugin-ptx/nona-deshake%7Csort:date/hugin-ptx/yFE6VF-mtGk/U8OYAuNYCgAJ)
and implemented it on Windows.
https://sites.google.com/site/alistargazing/home/image-processing/time-lapse-deshake. Takes 4 sec per image on an old laptop, and less than 5 minutes to launch a new project ...
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