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44

It looks like a multi-image, aka kaleidoscope filter - specifically a Cokin #201 - I can't tell whether it's an A or a P; they're the same but different sizes. I can't find any reference to it any more on Cokin, apparently it's long out of production, but I can find many on eBay searching just 'cokin 201' - examples This is the box artwork, as an example ...


31

No, changing the exposure or using an ND filter will not help you with this, since both will only brighten or darken everything by a certain factor. Your problem is the large relative difference between the bright and dark parts, the dynamic range. And your eyes can capture a much larger dynamic range than the camera's sensor. In order to have a photo ...


30

Pardon me while I get a little metaphysical for a bit. "Color" as we understand it isn't a real property of anything in the universe. It's something created by our vision system — a complicated interaction in our eyes and brains. It's useful for things like "don't eat the poison berries", "look at that tiger over in the grass", and, more recently, "stopping ...


29

The answer will be easy to figure out if you understand a little bit what polarization means. I don't have a polarizing filter to play with, but I do have a physics degree, so here it goes: Light reflected by certain types of surfaces (such as glass or water, but not metal) is partially linearly polarized. Light reflected under a certain angle is fully ...


29

You've got the sun almost in the frame. This is causing huge amounts of veiling flare — light bouncing all around, reducing contrast. You'll get better results from a different angle, or at a different time of day. Did you have a lens hood? If so, positioning the camera so the hood can better do its job would help. And, yeah, it probably isn't doing you any ...


28

Your intuition is essentially correct but there are a few important points. When the lens is stopped right down, only light heading for the centre of the front element will make it into the picture, so the whole front element isn't used for every point of light hitting the sensor (though all of it is used for some point of light). Even when the aperture ...


28

I have the same lens. Your front element is not broken From your photo it looks like only a protective filter (UV?) broke. Notice the letters saying "16-35mm". They are printed on the outside of the lens, not behind the front element. It appears the filter mount ring is still attached, making the front of the lens look a little deeper than ...


25

What you are looking for is a ND (Neutral Density) filter. To illustrate, here is an example of a photo taken in daylight in a street with a ND1000 filter. The filter allowed a shutter speed of 6 seconds. With no filter, with the same aperture and ISO, the shutter speed would have been approximately 6/1000 = 0.006 seconds (no "ghosts" effect). Contrary to ...


22

When light bounces off a relatively nonconductive surface it becomes partially plane polarized, meaning the light tends to have the same polarization direction. Polarizing filters can be used to counteract glare/reflections, by orienting the filter at 90 degrees to the polarized reflection so that it get filtered out. If you orient the filter so that it is ...


22

What's the difference between “Fake HDR” and real, bracketed exposure HDR? The only difference is how broadly or narrowly you decide to define the term High Dynamic Range Imaging (HDR). Do you use the broader term as it has been historically used for over 150 years to reference techniques used to display a scene with higher dynamic range than the dynamic ...


21

You're probably comparing a linear polariser with a circular polariser. The linear polariser is a basic filter that only passes light waves polarised in a particular direction. That works either way round, and you can combine two of them to produce a variable density filter - by rotating the second polariser, it passes most of the light when the polarisation ...


20

You can merge multiple short exposure photos into a single long exposure image. There are a lot of tutorials on the net, for example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAuQWfS3pLg Basically, he opens the sequence of photos in photoshop as layers in a single picture, then "auto-align layers", "convert to smart object" and "stack mode" - "mean". Image ...


19

No. It is not possible to create a physical filter that can completely "De-saturate" incoming light. The only way to achieve this without post-processing is at the film / sensor level.


19

Absolutely you can. Many square filter holders are specifically designed for this: The Lee Filters systems (Sev5n, 100mm) have optional front threaded rings designed to hold a polarizer in front of the ND filter(s). The NiSi 70mm and 100mm square filter holders feature a specially-made thin polarizer filter meant to stack behind the ND filters, closest to ...


19

You need more than an ND filter and a polarizer. You need a solar filter specifically designed for imaging the sun. The danger to your eyes and camera are very real if you are pointing the unprotected or underprotected camera at the sun. Most ND filters and polarizers only block visible light. The sun emits very high levels of UV and infrared radiation as ...


18

that purple haze is probably a color cast caused by the glass itself; the welders glass often isn't neutral color. you should be looking at solar filters, or very dark (and probably stacked) ND filters. Thousand Oaks sells solar filters, to name one company.


17

If the rubber band or filter wrench doesn't work, the next step is a precision band saw. If Adam Savage (the guy in the video) and his band saw is not available, you could also use a needle file or hacksaw to create a couple of notches in the front of the filter ring. Once you've cut a couple of notches in the filter ring, you can use a steel rule to twist ...


16

All color is a result of software processing. The only thing a sensor, be it film or semiconductor, can do is change state in response to incoming photons. Yes, a digital camera has color filters, but all they do is restrict the wavelengths which are passed to the sensing pixels. The output of each pixel is simply a bunch of electrons, which are then ...


15

Aside from moving water, what other motion blur applications can one achieve with an ND filter? Pretty much anything that moves in relation to the camera. One can make people moving through a scene totally disappear by using enough density to require an exposure time of several minutes or longer. Imagine pacing a train while your assistant drives on a ...


14

Those are almost certainly reflections from the UV filter. I recommend taking it off. This is a topic of much debate, but the fact is filters do cause artifacts visible in your photos — you've got the evidence right there. You can get better results from a more expensive filter, but then it'll cost almost as much as your lens. Lenses aren't as fragile as ...


14

For the budget? Go digital, but don't worry about those monochrome sensors. Sure, they're strictly better in terms of per-pixel awesomeness, but even entry-level DSLRs and mirrorless cameras have high enough resolution to make up for it — especially if your comparison point is 35mm film. And the color information let's you easily make color filter choices in ...


14

Apart from using an ND filter, you might be able to achieve the desired effect by taking multiple photos and then blending them in post processing. Either an automatic blend with "ghost removal" might work, or layering the images and manually masking/unmasking selectively (in effect "painting out" the people). All of this pretty much requires a tripod for ...


14

Why did my ND filter produce washed out exposures? You're shooting straight into the sun with a dirty, unshaded, and flat surface on the front of your lens. The image demonstrates all three classic types of lens flare: Veiling - General loss of contrast due to strong off-axis light sources, often caused by such light interacting with dust, particularly ...


13

If you look at filter #209 you'll see "Reduces light 1 stop (Transmission = 51%)". That is what you expect to see. Filter #210 reduces light 2 stops and has transmission of 24%. Again, what you expect. So what is the matter with filters 207 and 208? They are COLOR filters not neutral. They a) reduce light, and b) reduce it differently in different ...


13

When we speak of typical ranges of "high transmission" polarizing filters, we do not mean "this filter might be -2/3 stops and that filter might be -1 1/3 stop." What we mean is that "the same filter can vary between 2/3 to 1 1/3 stops" based on the various directions of the polarization of the light it is filtering. These ...


12

Rather than using a second polarizer (that you may not have), try out Tip#7 from this forum post: TIP #7: To distinguish a Circular Polarizer from a Linear Polarizer, turn the filter backwards and look through it into a mirror. If the filter image in the mirror is black, you have a circular polarizer. If the image is clear, you have a linear polarizer.


12

Any filter on your lens provides some mechanical protection. Many people always use at least some filter for this reason. It's better to scratch a $30 replacable filter than a $300 lens. A UV filter is often used when you otherwise don't want a filter at all. It blocks the UV rays you can't see, but which the lens would focus differently than visible ...


12

There are basically two ways to share filters between lenses with different thread sizes. You can buy screw on filters that fit the larger lens and use a step up ring to attach those filters to the smaller lens. You can use a system of filter holders that use adapter rings to attach to lenses with various filter thread sizes. You then use filters, many of ...


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