Nikon speedlights automatically switch into HSS, and Godox strobes do as well with the correct TTL radio trigger. You just have to set the flash sync to 1/250* (or 1/320*) in the camera's menu. The star indicates "auto FP" which is focal plane shutter sync (HSS in Nikon language).
I'm pretty sure others do/can as well.
But there is often a problem in the transition shutter speed range. It's not the actual shutter speed that matters, it's the length of time the sensor is fully uncovered - which is the shutter speed minus the shutter travel time. That's typically 1/300sec or so, meaning that in practice the x-sync window is roughly 1/500sec (at 1/200-250sec shutter speed). That mismatch commonly causes slight darkening/falloff gradient along the edge of the frame when shooting at max x-sync speed.
Often the edge gradation/falloff/loss of light isn't noticeable when photographing outdoors or when the light isn't the primary source, but it's usually there; and it can be a problem. That's one reason why it is usually preferable to use a slower shutter/sync speed than the max possible.
Of course, they could then program the switch to HSS to be earlier as well, but often the negative of the timing mismatch/gradient is much less of a problem than the loss of effective power switching into HSS is. So, ideally they should give you a lot more options... but then everyone would have to know why you have so many options and when to use them.
And in reality, it's usually just easier to do it all manually if you do know what/why/when.