12

I'm not too sure about your mount questions, but I do collect working vintage gear. Here's what I do and look for... If applicable, bring a battery - There's really no excuse not to bring a fresh battery for the camera you're interested in. Bring a pen light - your cellphone light may also work. You just want to be able to really see inside the nooks and ...


8

I have a 1Ds mkII and an original 5D. The fact I still have them is mainly due to the fact that they're worth a lot more to me that I would get from selling them. In other words I think they're probably undervalued on the second hand market. The main reason I say this is that the look you get from a full frame sensor is in many ways unobtainable with a ...


8

If your friend is truly referring to photographers that take thousands of images per week, yes they likely will wear out the shutter in about a year or so. Note that the shutter can be replaced for a reasonable cost. Most amateurs don't take thousands of photos a week and even many working pros do not outside of some specific areas such as action and ...


7

The 100-300mm f/4.5-5.6 USM is a better lens than the 75-300 III. It is sharper, has better build, and most importantly has very fast Ring Type USM Auto Focus. It also has a non-rotating front element which is great when using a polarizer. A +8 rating from a reputable store means you should feel safe buying it and could always return it if there is a ...


6

How bad is this? It depends. On what is causing the haze and how bad it currently is. The cause could be as varied as: fungus, lens separation (the glue holding elements together hardening and letting go), high amounts of dust inside the lens, etc. The cause will also determine if it is reversible, stable, or only going to get worse. On what your intended ...


5

Test it - if you haven't used it in a while make sure everything still works (also, especially in the case of lenses, you may want to add a picture taken with this lens to the sales listing) Clean it - be careful, you really don't want to damage the equipment now - but removing visible smudges and dirt will help with the next step Photograph it - this will ...


5

Generally (I can't speak for Nikon) refurbished equipment is used\broken\defective equipment that has been returned to a manufacturer. The manufacturer will then refit, clean, and repackage the item to factory specifications (as if it were new) and then sell it at a discounted price. Refurbished items generally have a shorter warranty, but since they ...


5

That isn't damage, it's the rubber flap that covers the hole where the cord for an external power source enters the camera. You'll find an illustration of how it works on page 311 of the owner's manual. That one just looks like it isn't properly seated and should pop easily back into place.


4

It's all about risk-reward. Your risk is getting a camera that fails. Your reward is saving money. Like most financial transactions you have to be the judge of what risk you're willing to accept for what reward. A few things to keep in mind to reduce the risk: When buying used bring along a memory card and something to look at the photos on outside the ...


4

These were great cameras then and they are still great cameras today. Actually the age factor makes them great values because people flock to newer things too quickly! A 1Ds Mark II remains superior to the latest APS-C Canon DSLRs when it comes to image quality. It shows less noise, greater dynamic-range and better low-light performance. Plus, you will ...


4

The default status of photographs is automatically that they're under copyright and unless you have some sort of license agreement with the person who made them, it would be illegal for you to publish them, modify them or do pretty much anything except look at them.


4

It very much looks like someone sprayed the lens(es) with silicone oil to make it look shiny and new. Just the thing you would do to the dashboard of an old car you are about to sell. This time the previous owner has 'overdone' it big time, resulting in some of the oil seeping inside the lens. This oil is very thin and goes thru real tight gaps. But it is ...


4

I do not think that there is a good answer to this without knowing the exact camera model and how it was used. For example, shooting video might exercise the mirror and shutter less, but may cause much greater thermal cycling of the sensor and electronics (at least one of my cameras gets very hot to the touch after shooting a lot of video).


4

I think there is some urban myths regarding this, and that this has to do with the CCD/CMOS debate some time ago. CCD sensors really heated up so much that they cannot record video. The technology then switched to CMOS, that can support video seamlessly, and not heating that much. Obviously, having the sensor to be working for hours taking video instead for ...


4

Could slightly older models effectively have substantial differences with the newer ones? Yes. However, I'm concerned about some features they may not include; I'm not talking about pro-level features such as IR transmission (which is something that I don't need right now) but maybe compatibility with flash transmitters, proper TTL, recharge time, focal ...


3

Plastic focus rings can often be a bit tight/rough to turn, its likely someone had put a small amount of light oil into the ring to help this. It doesnt look like it would be a problem as long as its not on any of the elements I w wouldnt worry. Did you buy it from a shop? it might be worth taking it back for some re-assurance, they will most likely say ...


3

The primary concern is really the shutter count. If the camera was used heavily or will be used heavily, it will likely be the first point of failure and can be be replaced. It is arguably the most "consumable" part of a DSLR. It isn't necessarily bad to get a used camera with a high shutter count, but you should pay less for one with a high shutter ...


3

Obviously you strongly suspect the lens is damaged (I would too if I were you) - now you basically have 3 options: Forget about it - decide the lens is in good enough condition and just let it go. Contact the seller and complain - at this point you have to give him the benefit of the doubt because you don't have any evidence. Get the lens to be checked at a ...


3

You should test it. First, check its metering and compare its result with an external light meter. Then you should test the shutter. If you were buying from me, I'd offer you shoot a roll of film with it. Also take a photo with a long exposure time while with the lens cap on to know if camera's body is not healthy. Shake the camera and make sure it does not ...


3

I've had a 5D, and currently have a 1DsII. If you can get a DsII for the price of a 5D, I'd say that is the one to prefer. The autofocus on any 1D is top notch, and far better than the one on the 5D (the 5D was basically a 30D with a full-frame image sensor). 5D is a little bit better on high ISO (1600, 3200) on the pixel level, on the other hand the 1Ds2 ...


3

Professionally, I run a 1D MkI (Classic) for sports / action photography and a 1Ds MkI for portraiture. The colour / contrast on my 1D classic is stunning and is the only Eos that allows 1/500th X-sync (a 1Dx can't manage that!). I have only three lenses: 16-35mm 2.8L, 50mm 1.4 prime, 70-200mm 2.8L. The x1.3 crop factor on the 1D gives me options on my ...


3

Fixed aperture is a very good feature that only one of those has. It just makes it easier to meter, control dof, and use fill flash. So go for the tamron. It is even pretty sharp. and super zooms are never a good idea, as they really make you feel disappointed at your DSLR.


3

I use a slightly different approach that I think is better. I simply take a photo of my contact information and leave it on my memory card. I keep one in the regular DCIM folder as well as one outside of it. Its simple, and I believe it to be effective although I've never proven so. In reality the only thing I care about is the images I've captured on my ...


3

If the lenses are not currently made to mount on Nikon DSLR bodies (i.e., Nikon F-mount), then no, you probably cannot buy an adapter to use them on your Nikon body. The reason for this is that Nikon's F-mount has one of the largest flange focal distances (also known as registration distance) for currently-available DSLR bodies on the market. I believe your ...


3

There is actually very little difference between these cameras outside of their brand but that has an implication on what lenses you can have now and in the future, so you should read How much do lenses vary across platforms? to understand what you would be getting into, since as you probably noticed, changing systems is costly. From the specification side, ...


3

I think the ball bearing has come out of position on the optical stabaliser (sounds similar to an issue I had). To get to it you need to strip down the lens to its bones to re-seat. Tried to do it myself but broke a ribbon cable inside and…well it's stuffed, but the image doesn't jump any more.


3

Am I missing something? No. I don't think there's any good reason not to buy a lens which has been used for videography. My best guess would be that the person who told you this has misinterpreted something they've been told.


3

To answer directly, as asked, a lens that has a focus motor when used for video has a motor that is in operation frequently during video shooting while when used for taking stills the motor is used far less often. You write, they said: "I was told by a fellow (amateur) photographer to avoid buying lenses involved into video shooting." and that "... we ...


3

Everything in Mike Sowsun's answer is correct and I concur with his assessment. There is at least one additional consideration that sometimes gives a current lens such as the EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS STM an advantage over an older lens such as the EF 100-300mm f/4.5-5.6: Canon (and other manufacturers are similar) generally supports a lens for around seven ...


2

It's not a guarantee, but a general rule of thumb is that the longer the range of focal lengths, the lower quality the lens. The majority of those lenses have extreme focal ranges. Beyond that, shopping questions are generally considered off topic and this is very much a shopping question.


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible