Is there really no way automate a DSLR to shoot every 24 hours without having to pick it up, charge/replace its battery, and put in back on the same spot ?
Canon and Nikon cameras can be connected to AC power by means of an adapter that fits in the battery slot. For example, Canon DSLRs that take an LB-E6 battery (like the 5D II, 6D, and 7D) can use an ACK-...
The Nikon P330 camera uses a Nikon EN-EL12 1050 mAh battery.
EN-EL12 battery capacity is nominally 1050 mAh as supplied.
After market batteries may claim higher capacities and, regardless of label, may have lower capacities.
If the charge rate is not limited by the camera itself when in-camera charging, or when externally charging the battery, maximum ...
Not a definitive answer, but I'm a fan of using the USB connection first.
My thinking is that if the USB port suffers mechanical failure, you'll still be able to charge and export files externally, but if the battery or card compartment breaks, you're without a functioning camera.
To put it another way :
Durability [external] = Durability [card slot + ...
No, the GoPro cannot be controlled over a USB connection.
If the GoPro is plugged into a computer and switched on, it will go into USB mode. This lets you download photos and videos from the camera. But you cannot take photos or video in this mode.
For the Hero3 or Hero3+ (or older models with a wifi Bacpac) they can be controlled over wifi. There are ...
USB mass storage is exactly what it sounds like: your camera presents its storage to the computer as a removable drive. This means you can poke around in parts of the storage the camera would really rather you didn't, re-format with the filesystem of your choice, copy files other than images to and from the camera, and in general treat the camera as a funny-...
The image was corrupted by random bytes of information being lost in the data transfer. You can tell because each time information is lost, the image shifts (because pixels end up missing as it fills each line). It's also not an even number of pixel information since some of the times that information is lost, it causes the color information to get shifted ...
I can't speak to the differences between the UC-E17 and UC-E6 cables, but since both cables are stated by the manufacturer to be compatible with your camera, they must either have the same connectors or be close enough to be interchangeable. Looking at the Nikon store pages, it seems that the UC-E17 cable may have been discontinued, which may be why some ...
Yes, you can use the E-M10 III as a webcam...kinda.
As noted by Maks you can run it as a webcam by setting the HDMI Control option to 'off'. This means it will output its screen to HDMI, rather than showing it on the EVF or internal tilt-screen.
You'll also need an HDMI capture device. Lots of people use the Elgato Cam-Link, but I'm just using a cheap stick ...
There are two things that matter for USB hubs, latency and throughput. Latency is a measure of how long it takes for information to pass through the device and throughput (or bandwidth) is how much data can move through the device in a given time.
Your exact needs will depend on what you are doing, but if you want precise timing from the computer, then ...
The Nikon EH-5b power adapter will do this.
For your camera model you would also need the EP-5B battery adpter via which to connect the EH-5b.
Try typing in "nikon d750 power adapter europe" to Google. It will be the first result.
The reason was that I am using Windows 10 N, which comes without the MTP driver. One has to install the Microsoft Media Feature Pack, in order to get this driver. Windows Update does not find it automatically. Moreover, for me it did not work out to install this version of the driver which is linked almost everywhere. Instead, I had to install the 1803 ...
According to the manual, a blinking green LED means charging failure.
Apparently, the camera for some reason thought it could charge itself via the
USB hub which can't supply enough power for charging.
To resolve the issue, the manual recommends unplugging the cable and
reattaching the battery. Actually, to me, the solution was just to open the
My experience is with Canon cameras (5D, XXD series). The ports are accessed via a rubber gasket on the side that sits well enough to create a good seal around the ports but is also only held on by the same rubber. It's a rather tight junction - which is good, one doesn't want it flopping around. But, at the same time, leaves me feeling like opening it 100% ...
Do you have any other idea that can help?
The easiest method is to take the SD card out of the camera and stick it in the SD slot in your computer, or if you don't have a computer equipped with such a slot, into the SD slot of a memory card reader. Cheap readers cost as little as $5; better ones read faster, work with more kinds of cards, and cost maybe $20....
First of all, I always recommend a card reader instead of a direct USB connection. It will be faster, you don't need special software, and it doesn't use your battery while downloading. I prefer the current USB 3.0 readers but many options exist.
This looks like what you are looking for:
GNU Canon Camera Utilities - http://canoncam.sourceforge.net/
I wish ...
Sure, there is:
From the Custom menu, on the fourth page, select Save/Load settings on card.
Select Save and wait for the operation to complete.
Move the card to another camera and select Save/Load settings on card again.
Select Load this time and choose the setting file, it will have a CSD extension.
Oh, just one small detail, make sure your camera is a ...
There are none. While there is an increasing minority of cameras that charge via USB, this is thankfully not the case for most cameras. Internal charging is annoying because you cannot use the camera and charge the battery at the same time, at least not further than a few feet away from a USB port. Many seriously high-end cameras even come with charger than ...
Card-Reader Can Still be Faster
A camera might be designed to write 35 megabytes per second to the card and handle the “U1” standard, and reading back out is oddly capped at 20 Mbytes/s due to the USB chip used, which is only USB-2.
You can buy even faster cards, e.g. “U3”, and USB-3–based readers that can let you dump the card at 95 Mbytes/s.
This will ...
I use an inverter plugged into my cig lighter in my Jeep. Its a mini transformer. Which ups the current to normal 110 household current. I plug my Nikon charger into that so I do my charging while I drive. Works great. I do have 2 batteries. One to use. One to charge. Never had a problem. I bought mine at Home Depot. It's a Black and Decker product.
The cameras often have a "type-B" USB connector (the "peripheral" side) and these aren't supposed to provide current (they are the side that normally draws current).
On addition the batteries in a camera aren't that big, you couldn't draw significant current from them without impacting the battery life.
What to do is pretty much up to you and your preferences. If you are careful, either approach can work until you feel it is time to replace the camera for other reasons.
Unless a camera can be charged only by USB, I prefer to swap batteries and cards.
I have used the battery door and card slots on my cameras nearly every day for years. The greatest risk of ...
HAD the same problem but looking through the internet I finally found a workaround.
The only thing to do is to do it in the right order!
Camera - PC [no connection]
Open your camera [let it boot -even if you have Magic Lantern-]
Turn it to M [-manual]
Insert USB cable to the PC first
Insert USB to camera
..it worked for me like a charm
Just had this problem myself when trying to download images from my new Canon 6D.
I'm a little picky, but:
1. I want to drag and drop from Windows Explorer, not a 3rd party program
2. I've have three card readers, but they don't recognize the newer/faster SD cards. So I just want to plug my camera in.
Here's the fix:
- turn off WiFi as mentioned above
Troubleshooting like this is basically a matter of changing one variable at a time. Trying to directly copy from the SD card is a good first step, and testing the cable is good too. I'd still suspect that the cable is the problem, but if you're sure it's not that, it may be either a problem with your laptop's USB port or a software problem on the computer. ...
It is not nearly true that "almost all non-DSLR cameras can recharge the battery inside the camera via USB". In fact, I think it's the exception, rather than the rule.
In any case, I don't think you'll find that for a DSLR. For a compact camera that you might throw in a bag or keep in your pocket while traveling, it makes sense to not have to deal with an ...
If you haven't already, check out the high-end webcam options, like the Logitech C920.
Most DSLRs & mirror-less cameras, as well as some point-and-shoots, support tethered shooting over USB.
This may require specific software for some cameras
Some have an API/SDK you can use to write your own software (e.g. Canon)
You can also use libgphoto2 for ...
Personally I wouldn't protect them as the USB connectors pair comes apart easily rather than either causing a trip hazard which might cause personal injury OR risk knocking or transferring shock loads into your equipment at one or both ends of the cable. The fact that they are coming undone suggests there's enough stress on the cable to risk damaging ...