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Im not sure if that will work in your case, but the following tutorial helped me solving my Canon bent lens. Sharing as it might help others! Good luck!


That the flash works on the camera hotshoe means you've eliminated the camera hotshoe and the flash foot as potential issues. And that the Test button isn't firing the flash eliminates camera flash modes as an issue. Assuming your flash triggers are the rebranded Godox CT-16 manual triggers that Neewer tends to sell with their flashes :) Here are some ...


Make sure the trigger is fully seated in the hot shoe because this is the most common cause of flash equipment suddenly not working. A second common cause of flash not firing is setting the camera shutter speed above the camera’s maximum sync speed. It is not uncommon for cameras to disable flash firing electronics when the shutter speed is too high.


Even though this has been answered, I wanted to visualize this interesting problem. If we assume light travels in straight lines, then the wall thickness and hole diameter both matter. In these diagrams, the blue lines are the light rays travelling through. The yellow lines are also light rays, but they are not perfectly crossed at the center, so they add ...


I just wanted to add one simple way to check for such problems: Look from behind the opened camera into the pinhole, with a bright background in front of the camera. Then turn the camera, so that you finally look along the corner of the film area. While turning, did the pinhole keep visible with more or less the same brightness? If not, you have a vignetting ...


So based on the comments here it looks like one possible solution was to fix how the 'lens' was. Pictured is the old lens and the new lens as a piece of foil, .3mm hole and then tapped to the inside where the old lens was. Edit: Based on comments, I did this and hoping it was a correct move? (lens not there) So again based on suggestions, I am wondering if ...


As timvrhn has commented, the problem is the material the pinhole is in is too thick. Try making a larger hole in the wood with a holder for a piece of metal that has the pinhole. Some people have successfully made pinholes from aluminum cans. You want a very thin material, such as aluminium sheet/foil. It seems you have used wood which is generally a lot ...


Regardless of the distance from the hole to the film, your camera has a maximum field of view of ~8 degrees. This is because no light ray that is off-axis by more than ~4 degrees can make it through a hole that is 3.5 mm long (thickness of the wood) and 0.24 mm in diameter. For light from larger angles, the wood shadows the back of the hole.


You have vignetting. It's probably not from the pinhole failing to cover the film; more likely the pinhole is in too narrow a hole in the front panel material, and that material is blocking light from the pinhole reaching the film (or light from the scene reaching the pinhole). I base this in part on the shape of the vignette -- if it were an exposure ...


Some of the more sophisticated simple cameras had a double exposure interlock -- this requires the film advance to be operated to unlock the shutter, which locks after an exposure is made. Many of these interlocks weren't very "smart" -- they'd unlock the shutter after only a fraction of a frame had been advanced, and a few such cameras (like the ...


I'm not familiar with the particular model, but the vast majority of bellows cameras from that era require the shutter to be cocked manually. The reason the shutter button isn't doing anything when you press it is because it hasn't been cocked yet.

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