If you play the video at 30 frames/s, taking one picture/second is a 30x speedup. If your boat sails at 3mph, the time lapse at one picture/second will be a simulated 90mph. How much of a road can you see driving a car at that speed?
Taking the problem by the other end, figure out your "cruise" speed when in a car, divide by the boat speed. This is your "...
According to the Nikon Coolpix D900 user manual, there are only 2 ways to capture a timelapse with the Coolpix P900 : using the Timelapse Movie capture or the Interval Timer.
The P900 can shoot small video clips of 10s in 1080p by taking up to 300 pictures at different intervals (between 2s and 36s). See user manual page 97 for operation ...
Search eBay/Amazon etc for "Intervalometer" - prices around $£€ 10 - cheap as chips.
They come with adaptors to fit just about any camera that can use one. Usually claim time-lapse intervals programmable up to 99 hours. They're all pretty generic Chinese devices, unbranded or branded with any number of different names.
Bonus: even without batteries they ...
Since I didn't find a way to do that with darktable, I developed a script to use darktable-cli and to interpolate between darktable's parameters:
It's not much but it does the job (at least for me).
How can I compensate for this to get some color continuity for time lapse animations where scene brightness dramatically changes in time (e.g. twilight) thus requiring different exposures?
When linear raw values are converted to gamma corrected values not all are multiplied by the same amount. A curve is applied to mimic the way human vision responds to ...
So, I approached Nikon in the end to clarify the situation. Unfortunately this is not possible and they recommended me to use a wall adapter. The Norwegian mountains are a bit short on power outlets, but at least it has been clarified now...
It appears that I was actually doing (unknowingly) "as shot" white balance correction while processing the raw files. Namely, I was using the cam_mul coefficients, which do change from image to image (they represent white balance of the embedded JPEG, in particular), and the particular camera I used to do the photos (I have two of the same model) had WB mode ...
Simple option: a length of string.
Tie the string to the object in the centre, or peg it into the ground etc. Tie the other end onto your camera or tripod leg.
Then you can keep the string taut, as you move around in a circle. It will keep the camera a fixed distance from the centre.
The software you can use for example is Imaging Edge
For your camera it support tethering. Here is example how to connect your camera.
And here how to set shooting on interval.
Also few points for consideration:
Are you sure you will have power all the time? Or power interruption
will be for less time laptop battery can handle?
Do you have enough disk ...
I am worried here. Especially with the pixelated one. A program like Virtual dub takes your image sequence and just assemble it. If you have some sort of pixelation is not because of the program but of the settings you are giving.
Prepare the files.
Let's start from step 1.
I. Not every program will read a raw file, first convert it to something more ...
If the object is not too large, put it on a turntable of sorts, and turn it instead of the camera. That way you can even put a solid background behind it and get consistent background and lighting for all the shots.
If the object is large enough that turning the object is not viable, then the string idea works, even if it's just to mark a circular track ...
I can't answer your question for Darktable specifically , but in general you need software that allows for the creation of keyframes and the interpolation of parameters between those keyframes.
The only software that I know that does this for RAW photo files is LRTimelapse (no affiliation).
It is used in conjunction with Lightroom, but as it alters the ...
I've seen cold-start issues.... go out into the cold night with a cold camera, heat the CMOS with a long exposure, first cold-CMOS image has different response parameters vs next exposure that starts with a warm CMOS.
But who gets long exposure settings right on the first try, LOL? So we're usually not in a position to notice.
There are some products that normalize exposures for timelapses over arbitrary frames or time duration. In other words, it will adjust each exposure so that the overall brightness will vary only over a minimum duration or frame count. (Which, depending on how rapidly lighting varies, might result in no perceptible change at all.)
There are a number of ...
If you're looking for a free app on Windows, I ended up using the Photos app that ships with Windows 10. It's a bad name for a product because it replaced Windows Movie Maker, but it was super simple to do a time-lapse after. Simply import your images, drag them onto the storyboard, then adjust the duration.