25
The traditional cheap solution is a bag of beans.
13
What you describe is similar to what astrophotographers call lucky imaging (or speckle imaging). The idea behind lucky imaging is to take several (hundreds, even thousands) of very short exposures and only keep the few images that appear to be the least disturbed by atmospheric distortions.
In a general sense, taking more images than needed in order to ...
12
If you play the video at 30 frames/s, taking one picture/second is a 30x speedup. If your boat sails at 3mph, the time lapse at one picture/second will be a simulated 90mph. How much of a road can you see driving a car at that speed?
Taking the problem by the other end, figure out your "cruise" speed when in a car, divide by the boat speed. This is your "...
11
Hugin has a tutorial on their website, which made for a good starting point.
Tools needed:
Hugin
ImageMagick
Bash shell
Create a Hugin project
Start Hugin and be sure to select Interface > Advanced (Expert will do, too). Go to the Panorama Stitcher window.
Set the Field of View (50° worked well for my smartphone camera), lens parameters and projection ...
10
Taking sequences of periodic images, by their very nature of being periodic, is used to show changes in the scene over time.
Time slice photographs. In particular, Dan Marker-Moore has created some truly beautiful time slice photos. From his site,
A Time Slice is an image that combines series of photos taken from one location over an about of time. Each ...
9
I can't watch your videos at the moment, but if I got it correct they are timelapses of a plant growing while the environment doesn't change or changes very little. It gives the impression that the plant grows fully over a short amount of time, or the the plant and the environment move at different speed.
If my assumption is correct, BBC did this for the ...
9
Other options for uneven surfaces which I like a lot are these ones:
Ballpod
THE pod
RiceQ (their online shop is pretty bad, if you need international shipping I'd suggest to use amazon.de)
9
I don't think you'll find what you're looking for, because: bigger things are bigger than small things. Full-frame cameras are bigger than APS-C cameras Medium format cameras are bigger than full-frame cameras. APS-C cameras are bigger than 1/2.3" format cameras. Just like full-sized pickup trucks are bigger than commuter cars.
I think it likely that you've ...
9
Many time lapse cameras already do this, but on a shorter time scale. For example, GoPro mentions in TimeWarp documentation:
For the best results, try speeds 10x and up when shooting footage that may get bumpy. Higher speed will often provide better stabilization as there are more frames for TimeWarp to choose from
Which sounds like it is selecting the ...
8
If you don't want your equipment stolen, yes, you (and/or a friend) stay there for however long it takes.
Very long term shots usually make use of some kind of secure box, bolted or chained in place. Depending on the location this can require permission from the relevant authorities.
8
Several things could be going on. Based on the question as originally written you might have been experiencing buffer congestion. When the buffer is full the camera must wait until enough space has been sufficiently cleared from the buffer as the data is written to the memory card before it can take the next frame. Under such conditions, the "double tap" ...
8
This kind of fast then slow performance (as you correctly guessed) will be because of the image buffer filling up. Using a faster card will help until you reach the limit of the camera's circuitry - you may have reached this limit.
Even if your camera's performance is faster than the SD card. It's quite possible that some of the card's 'bandwidth' is taken ...
7
If you're asking how to take the images for a timelapse, what you're looking for is an intervalometer. And yes, there are several ways of achieving this, aside from a smartphone/tablet and the Canon EOS app. There are several smartphone apps that can do this. There are hardware intervalometers built into cable shutter releases. There are dedicated (mostly ...
7
SImple answer: not to a measurable extent.
Difficult answer: A high ISO-equivalent setting cranks the analog gain up. More gain requires more power per electron (or milliVolt if you prefer), but there's going to be far fewer electrons in each pixel bucket. A low ISO-equiv. setting will apply less gain to more electrons.
That said, if you're in ...
7
I've actually done this myself. The first time I was not successful. The second time I was successful.
Considerations
There are a few things that go into this.
Planning -- finding a transit near you
Equipment -- what you'll need and/or considerations for what would work
Exposure -- considerations of the ISS that will influence your exposure
Planning
You'...
6
That's some pretty simple math going on there...
5 (minutes of video)
* 60 (secs/minute)
* 24 (frames/sec)
= 7200 (frames total)
7200 (frames total)
/ 365 (days/year) = 19.7 frames/day
Simply rounded that's 20 frames per day
Another way to work it is to shoot 24fps and shoot one frame per hour, which would put your final film at 365 seconds (one per day)...
6
With your comment noting that it works if you enter 999, I suspect that you are suffering the effects of poor user interface design. Sounds like the camera has an actual limit of 999, and UI doesn't inform you of that or limit your input. It's an open Question whether the software's back end is truncating out-of-date "5000" to "5", or whether that's ...
6
It's most likely to do with the additional complexities required surrounding counting 4 digits, and displaying 4 digits on LCD screens. A chip that counts to 999 and stops before 1000 is probably much cheaper than a chip or IC (integrated Circuit) that counts to 9999 and stops before 10000.
Likewise, real estate on LCD screens is at a premium, so fitting in ...
5
You need better, fuller spectrum light. And you need more of it. The issues you have with your images are due to poor lighting, under exposure, and the resulting high noise.
5
If you have noise reduction completely turned off then the effect of using a high ISO setting on battery life should be minimal.
Most of the increased power demand of using high ISO settings is due to the increased processing required to implement noise reduction. Even when saving in raw format, the camera still processes the raw data to produce a jpeg ...
5
No, there is no way to do this with your Nikon camera. Yes, this is frustrating.
Part of the reason, perhaps the reason for not being able to leave the mirror up, has to do with the historical design of Nikon's aperture control mechanism. Historically, Nikon bodies used a physical linkage mechanism to directly control the aperture. Other manufacturers long ...
5
Everything should be set to manual, nothing should be automatic. What's happening is the camera is trying to compensate/adjust for each and every frame. Turn off any setting that would automatically adjust anything.
I made one once, I thought I had everything set correctly and when I rendered it to video it did the same light variance/flickering that you ...
4
Yes, you can keep your DSLR camera on for two or three years based on the following assumptions:
Your particular model DSLR includes an option that allows you to disable any 'sleep' option that is enabled by the factory default settings.
Your memory card has sufficient capacity to hold that many photos taken at the 'Image Quality' you have selected. ...
4
I'm not aware of any one-click utility for this, nor anything that can run off a video stream directly, but if you were to export the individual frames to images first, there's a bunch of ways to get averages (either median or mean) from a stack of images.
You'd most likely be looking at selecting each stack one-by-one and averaging into single frames, then ...
4
According to this:
You charge the battery in the camera using a small square adapter with a folding plug that connects to the included USB cable. That means you can charge the battery from your laptop's USB port, but it also means you can't shoot while your battery is charging. You have to charge it in the camera.
4
I had the same issue/idea as you and decided to see if I could alter the camera to focus father away. After taking it apart, the four spokes don't appear to allow adjustment of the focus. They don't turn. As the camera focuses the lens assembly (including this 4 spoke thing) moves closer to the sensor (for far away focus) and farther from the sensor (for ...
4
In your case you are adding artificial lighting into the mix and that seems to be where the vast majority of the flickering is coming from.
Some light sources powered by alternating current can vary by more than a stop between the peak and the trough of their AC cycle. And since metering is done at a different instant than exposure, a conventional meter can'...
4
From what you write I have three suggestions to make more consistent photos
Set white balance to some value, this will help you to mitigate
colour casts
Set focus to manual and focus to particular point (also get in
consideration to change aperture to have appropriate depth of field)
Set flash to manual to some value, which is fine for your purpose
P.S. As ...
4
Yes, it is possible. The ideal case would be if it was visible from your home so that you can leave a tripod stationary and just attach the camera when you need to. If the construction site is somewhere else, however, you can't use the tripod to mark a location. Better try to think of a good location to shoot from with something that won't move for a while - ...
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