What you describe is similar to what astrophotographers call lucky imaging (or speckle imaging). The idea behind lucky imaging is to take several (hundreds, even thousands) of very short exposures and only keep the few images that appear to be the least disturbed by atmospheric distortions.
In a general sense, taking more images than needed in order to ...
If you play the video at 30 frames/s, taking one picture/second is a 30x speedup. If your boat sails at 3mph, the time lapse at one picture/second will be a simulated 90mph. How much of a road can you see driving a car at that speed?
Taking the problem by the other end, figure out your "cruise" speed when in a car, divide by the boat speed. This is your "...
Hugin has a tutorial on their website, which made for a good starting point.
Create a Hugin project
Start Hugin and be sure to select Interface > Advanced (Expert will do, too). Go to the Panorama Stitcher window.
Set the Field of View (50° worked well for my smartphone camera), lens parameters and projection ...
There are so many variables regarding power consumption per shot that it is probably a little hard to precisely nail down. In general, shooting raw is understood to require more power than shooting JPEG assuming all other variables are equal. Even when saving image files in a raw format, a preview or thumbnail JPEG is generated by most cameras. So some, if ...
Taking sequences of periodic images, by their very nature of being periodic, is used to show changes in the scene over time.
Time slice photographs. In particular, Dan Marker-Moore has created some truly beautiful time slice photos. From his site,
A Time Slice is an image that combines series of photos taken from one location over an about of time. Each ...
I use ffmpeg for this task. It is a command line program that works well on Windows.
A typical command line would look similar to
ffmpeg -r 15 -start_number 1234 -i DSC_%d.jpg -s 1280x852 -vcodec libx264 output.mp4
This assumes that your files are named according to the pattern DSC_1234.jpg and that the first file is no. 1234. The framerate is set to ...
First we rename all *.JPG files based on their creation date. Sometimes cameras change the file name or just ordering them is somehow not what we want. However, renaming them by the creation date always work:
jhead -n%Y%m%d-%H%M%S *.JPG
After that we put this list in a file:
ls -1tr | grep -v files.txt > files.txt
And then use mencoder to create an ...
I can't watch your videos at the moment, but if I got it correct they are timelapses of a plant growing while the environment doesn't change or changes very little. It gives the impression that the plant grows fully over a short amount of time, or the the plant and the environment move at different speed.
If my assumption is correct, BBC did this for the ...
I don't think you'll find what you're looking for, because: bigger things are bigger than small things. Full-frame cameras are bigger than APS-C cameras Medium format cameras are bigger than full-frame cameras. APS-C cameras are bigger than 1/2.3" format cameras. Just like full-sized pickup trucks are bigger than commuter cars.
I think it likely that you've ...
If you don't want your equipment stolen, yes, you (and/or a friend) stay there for however long it takes.
Very long term shots usually make use of some kind of secure box, bolted or chained in place. Depending on the location this can require permission from the relevant authorities.
There is a GoPro timelapse contoller available from Cam-Do.
This switches the camera off between each shot, which can give much longer battery life. So it can take hundreds of photos, spread over days or weeks.
This controller is compatible with the HD Hero, Hero 2, and Hero 3 White and Hero 3 Black, but it is not compatible with the Hero 3 Silver.
For Windows, you can use VirtualDub. It is free and open source.
To create a timelapse, you need all of your photos numbered in order, without any gaps in the sequence. Then just go to File > Open, and pick the first image. VirtualDub will then load all of the images.
To set the frame rate, go to Video menu > Frame rate. You can also add filters if you ...
Several things could be going on. Based on the question as originally written you might have been experiencing buffer congestion. When the buffer is full the camera must wait until enough space has been sufficiently cleared from the buffer as the data is written to the memory card before it can take the next frame. Under such conditions, the "double tap" ...
This kind of fast then slow performance (as you correctly guessed) will be because of the image buffer filling up. Using a faster card will help until you reach the limit of the camera's circuitry - you may have reached this limit.
Even if your camera's performance is faster than the SD card. It's quite possible that some of the card's 'bandwidth' is taken ...
Many time lapse cameras already do this, but on a shorter time scale. For example, GoPro mentions in TimeWarp documentation:
For the best results, try speeds 10x and up when shooting footage that may get bumpy. Higher speed will often provide better stabilization as there are more frames for TimeWarp to choose from
Which sounds like it is selecting the ...
First you need to have an estimation of how long does it take for a flower to die. You can Observe a similar flower or just guess. It really depends on the type of flower and the environment (in/out soil, outdoor/indoor, humid/dry, etc). Once you have this time (let's call it Tf), then you have to decide how long your movie clip should last (Tm).
Once you ...
If you're asking how to take the images for a timelapse, what you're looking for is an intervalometer. And yes, there are several ways of achieving this, aside from a smartphone/tablet and the Canon EOS app. There are several smartphone apps that can do this. There are hardware intervalometers built into cable shutter releases. There are dedicated (mostly ...
SImple answer: not to a measurable extent.
Difficult answer: A high ISO-equivalent setting cranks the analog gain up. More gain requires more power per electron (or milliVolt if you prefer), but there's going to be far fewer electrons in each pixel bucket. A low ISO-equiv. setting will apply less gain to more electrons.
That said, if you're in ...
I've actually done this myself. The first time I was not successful. The second time I was successful.
There are a few things that go into this.
Planning -- finding a transit near you
Equipment -- what you'll need and/or considerations for what would work
Exposure -- considerations of the ISS that will influence your exposure
That's some pretty simple math going on there...
5 (minutes of video)
* 60 (secs/minute)
* 24 (frames/sec)
= 7200 (frames total)
7200 (frames total)
/ 365 (days/year) = 19.7 frames/day
Simply rounded that's 20 frames per day
Another way to work it is to shoot 24fps and shoot one frame per hour, which would put your final film at 365 seconds (one per day)...
With your comment noting that it works if you enter 999, I suspect that you are suffering the effects of poor user interface design. Sounds like the camera has an actual limit of 999, and UI doesn't inform you of that or limit your input. It's an open Question whether the software's back end is truncating out-of-date "5000" to "5", or whether that's ...
It's most likely to do with the additional complexities required surrounding counting 4 digits, and displaying 4 digits on LCD screens. A chip that counts to 999 and stops before 1000 is probably much cheaper than a chip or IC (integrated Circuit) that counts to 9999 and stops before 10000.
Likewise, real estate on LCD screens is at a premium, so fitting in ...
I think you can use the DSLR controller for Android
Though, for time lapse I would suggest magic lantern.
Although it's not officially released, nor officially stable, I'm using it on mine and it's stable.
You can do timelapses from within the camera.
6d Magic Lantern Forum and
6d Magic Lantern pre-alpha downloads
If you have noise reduction completely turned off then the effect of using a high ISO setting on battery life should be minimal.
Most of the increased power demand of using high ISO settings is due to the increased processing required to implement noise reduction. Even when saving in raw format, the camera still processes the raw data to produce a jpeg ...
Everything should be set to manual, nothing should be automatic. What's happening is the camera is trying to compensate/adjust for each and every frame. Turn off any setting that would automatically adjust anything.
I made one once, I thought I had everything set correctly and when I rendered it to video it did the same light variance/flickering that you ...