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"Strobists" are the followers of teachings of David Hobby published in his blog, "The Strobist". Strobism is usually characterized by using small flashes (designed for on-camera use) in manual mode off camera to achieve better lighting than available from ambient lighting. The flashes are often accompanied by portable and/or DIY light modifiers and set-up ...


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Yes, a so-called Strobist setup (a radio controlled off-camera hotshoe flash/speedlight) can be great for learning and experimenting with basic off-camera lighting, even while it won't deliver the same way a proper studio strobe setup would. However, if you can find a studio setup with two lights and two softboxes for less than a TT350+X1T, the chances are ...


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Using wireless triggers is certainly one way to do this. Cheap triggers such as Cactus, Phottix, Pixl are all good choices, all the way up to PocketWizards. Or you can get some cheap hot shoe adapters with a cord. Disadvantages are that you won't have TTL / Automatic flash mode. You'll have to set the power manually. check out Strobist on information for ...


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When you take a picture with a flash, the flash discharges from a bank of capacitors for a given time to regulate the flash power. The higher power the flash, the longer the flash is discharged for, and thus, the more power is used and the longer recharge takes. The most common solution for your problem is to alter the criteria so that you can take more ...


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"Strobist" refers to a blog maintained by photojournalist turned educator David Hobby. The original by-line on the blog sums up strobist philosophy quite nicely:less gear, more brain, better light. Originally it was about eschewing big AC studio strobes (and studios in general) leveraging the growing powers of digital photography to do more with smaller ...


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A strobist is someone who uses off-camera flash (flashguns/speedlights rather than studio strobes) for lighting. Compared to studio strobes, it's the relatively low-cost and relatively portable option. I think the term originated with the Strobist website, and it has an entry in the Urban Dictionary


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I think this is pretty well covered on the second page of Strobist 101: here's what your flash absolutely has to have: The ability to work in manual mode, and to do so at different power settings. (I.e., full power, ½ power, ¼ power, etc.) [...] If your flash has that, skip buying another flash for right now until you have a chance to play with the gear ...


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You can get different white balance on subject and background when you use flash and gels. That's one of the points of using flashes. http://neilvn.com/tangents/gelling-your-flash-for-effect-blue-background/ http://neilvn.com/tangents/photo-shoot-progression-of-an-idea/ (and many more on his blog) The white balance of the flash is fixed. The color of the ...


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A shot like this requires you to shoot during the golden hour. The light at this time of day will be very warm/yellow with very pronounced shadows. Other factors that can help you get a shot similar to this include careful application of additional light sources such as a reflector, as well as special consideration for what lens may produce the desired ...


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Gear-wise, the list is pretty simple. You need a flash and a way to trigger it remotely and a way to control the power output of the flash. This typically means a flash with manual power control and cheap radio triggers of some kind. This will then be followed by a need to position the flash where/how you want it and some type of diffuser, which leads to a ...


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What to look for? It really doesn't matter, as long as it has a manual mode. I'd get 2-3 Yongnuo flash units and some decent accessories such as transmitters, triggers, stands, reflectors, umbrellas, etc. as well for that budget. But if you can find just about any manual flash a friend or family member has lying around; it can certainly keep you busy ...


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The closer the light source to the subject the greater the fall off. If you want a softer fall off move your light source away...not closer. Also, the larger the light source the more diffused the light it produces and the less light falloff you will experience. For example, a large softbox will produce less light falloff then a small softbox; a bare flash ...


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Yes, using the on-camera-flash in manual power setting and the SB-700 in SU-4 optical slave mode.


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If you are using Canon triggering systems, no you cannot perform 2nd-curtain sync over radio. However, many third party radio triggers, like the Yongnuo YN-622c and Godox X triggers, can perform 2nd curtain by bypassing the Canon wireless protocol, and basically faking that the flash is on the camera hotshoe.


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If you want a more detailed tutorial after strobist 101 you should probably look into Strobist lighting 102


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Readers who wish to use older flash units on modern digital cameras must be aware of the rather high voltages (often as high as 400V) present on the hotshoe connection, which can (and will) damage the electronics of almost any modern (digital) camera. Those who are adept at electronics, might wish to consider the DIY optoelectronic isolator shown at this ...


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Don't think of the background light as just a background light. Play with it. If you double the distance you will diminish the fall-off. You will need to double the output, and probably put a card so you don't spill light to your subject. But play with the light, cut a cardboard in different shapes. From different angles Put a diffuser before the ...


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While it's certainly overkill for the original problem I found a device that can trigger different groups of flashes quickly after each other. According to this article the Pocket Wizard Plus III and MultiMax have a feature called Speed Cycler. This function allows to trigger different (groups of) flashes in rapid succession.


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First, to get this warm and yellow background, you need to be shooting in that kind of light, which generally only happens at sunrise and sunset. You can see by the catchlight in the eyes that the photographer was using a fairly large reflector to get light back onto the subjects. Also, you will notice that the super golden part of the light is way off in ...


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You need to set it to E-TTL or Manual mode, not to Slave mode. The YN622C-TX and YN-622C combine to create the equivalent of an off-shoe cord. The camera sees the transmitter as a compatible Canon E-TTL flash and the flash sees the receiver as a compatible EOS camera. So the flash is acting just as if it were mounted on the shoe, not as an optically ...


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I'm going to propose an alternate solution: consider switching to the Godox flash system, which uses big lithium rechargeable batteries. The battery is proprietary, so that's not so handy, but they're also not that expensive and easily available from major retailers. These will generally give you more shots than a set of Eneloop batteries in a flash, but ...


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The "pro" option. Use color gels. There are some well-known brands like Rosco and Lee http://www.leefilters.com/lighting/colour-list.html https://rosco.com/products/catalog/roscolux You could buy some multiple colores collection of small pieces. I prefer buying the full sheet because I do not use that many colors. Google "colored gels for flash". Some ...


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Take the 430EXII out of slave mode. That's for Canon's optical wireless system, and is basically telling the 430EXII not to listen to the signals on the foot pins, but to the red sensor panel on the front instead. And your YN-622C is sending signals via the foot pins. The 622 radio slaving is separate and a different system than the built-in Canon ...


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The best place to go after Strobist 101 is Strobist 102, then on to the individual articles at Strobist.blogspot.com. It really is the best source on the web for off-camera flash. The sheer number of articles, and the varied situations and techniques can be daunting, but I think that is the entire point if you're trying to get really creative with light. ...


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Older flashes, such as the Vivitar 285 that I got new in 1979, expose more than 300 volts to the hotshoe/PC-sync terminal. My old Nikon F was fine with that, as the sync terminal was just a physical switch that closed when the shutter opened. Modern DSLRs are all electronic. And many (most?) electronic switches are designed for 5 volts maximum. If you put ...


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Assuming you're buying a new flash, here's what you'll be missing. Vivitar 285HV Decent build quality and reliability. Vivitar no longer makes flashes, they license out the name to Sakar, and the Sakar units are not the old reliable workhorse units, although they look and are named the same. A brand new 285HV is not like a vintage 285, and is very much the ...


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