14

You aren't going to be able to make your yard look like summer, in winter. What you can do is slow down (you said you were rushed), properly frame and compose the images, shoot in RAW, and shoot at a few different times of the day - try the hour after sunrise and hour before sunset. You also could just wait for a sunny day - although in most places that is ...


13

It's called "Nisen Bokeh" and is mainly due to the lens design (though the background plays a part, it's possible to "provoke" this effect with any lens with the right background). Overcorrected spherical aberration (blur disks which are brighter in the periphery than the centre) is usually to blame. It's showing up more often with the A7 due to the use of ...


12

Most advanced cameras allow you to separate exposure and/or focus lock from a half press of the shutter button to allow each photographer to choose how and when focus and exposure are locked for a given composition. Even what happens by default in the camera's "factory" settings will often vary based on what shooting modes in terms of exposure and focus are ...


11

I think it's more the latter of your two reasons: the experience, talent, and care of the group who are willing to spend more on higher-end gear, vs. the format size alone, that creates the impression that better cameras make better pictures all by themselves. Someone who's willing to spend $2000 on a camera body and another $3000 on glass in a brand new ...


11

One good solution is to get a Hot Shoe Flash Adapter so you can use your old external flash right on the camera, or get a smaller Manual only flash to trigger your external optical slave flash. $10 Amazon Hot Shoe Flash Adapter MSA-10 for Sony NEX 3 An even better solution is to get this Wireless radio transmitter/receiver: $10 Wireless Flash Trigger ...


11

Apart from what others have suggested (shooting raw, playing with white balance and saturation, shooting at golden hour...) I would try and change your composition a little. Try taking a shot from a little further to the right, so that your driveway creates something like a "leading line" to guide the view into the picture. This is a tip very commonly given ...


10

Distortion caused by a lens's optics would give you barrel distortion (objects appear to bulge outward) or pincushion distortion (squishing inward). The skewed lines you are observing are straight; this is perspective distortion, and is not a problem caused by the lens nor fixable with better optics (you can fix it with a tilt-shift lens, but that's a ...


9

You're not buying the camera for the lens, nor planning to use only that lens, are you? And the review is not that bad: the lens is actually pretty good in the medium to upper range. Mainly there seems to be two criticisms: at the wide end, resolution is not good - but still better than not having it at all; other kit zooms just don't go that wide. ...


9

In terms of which angles of view the lens(es) will allow you to select, you're correct: the combination of an 18-55 lens and a 55-200 lens will let you choose from exactly the same angles of view as a single 18-200 lens. However, I think you are missing a couple of important points, both of which are well covered in this answer: you'll get better image ...


7

In most cameras the scene modes automatically set the file type to JPEG and apply different processing settings to those files (Landscape mode often boosts greens and blues, sunset mode boosts reds, for example). They also prioritise aperture and/or shutter speed appropriately. However, this comes at the cost of creative freedom - the camera is making all ...


7

The first flash is probably for light metering (Canon call their version e-TTL, Nikon iTTL if you want to read about how it works), but the external flash doesn't know that of course. You should be able to get an external optical trigger that can handle this (a hotshoe with a tripod thread on the bottom). Optical triggers are cheap so this would be a ...


6

You're getting what is called Perspective distortion which is most noticable in wide angle lenses. Check out this link for more info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perspective_distortion_(photography) Basically close up objects in the center of the frame will look enlarged while objects on the sides will be stretched away from the center of the photo.


6

These are different designs, developed at different times. Forty years have gone between each was initially launched as the A-mount was simply acquired from Minolta which had by then fused into Konica-Minolta. The A-mount introduces AF which worked by Phase-Detection and hence lenses for that mount are designed to focus that way. Over the years, they were ...


6

More generally, you'll find that most cameras which are primarily stills cameras will be limited to 30 minutes of video. This is due to EU regulations which mean that anything which can record longer than 30 minutes is a "video camera" and attracts a higher rate of duty. Panasonic are a notable exception to this in that they produce separate EU and non-EU ...


6

No, larger sensor cameras are not more likely to mis-focus - if you take the Canon 1DX (with a modern lens) for example, it's a full-frame camera that's about as far away from "likely to mis-focus" as possible. But when a large sensor camera mis-focuses it's more noticeable, especially when most tiny sensor cameras (cellphones) have wide angle lenses. The ...


5

Sticking with your requirements of around 12mm or so focal length, rectilinear, autofocus and less than around $400, the simple answer to this is "no, you can't have that" even if you're prepared to compromise on other things like speed, optical quality and (lack of) zoom. If you're prepared to give up on autofocus (which generally isn't too much of a ...


5

It is not. What you are referring to is sensitivity to light. That is the ISO sensitivity is for and while there is a standard that describes it, digital sensors do not match exactly the posted sensitivity. A site like DxOMark actually measures ISO equivalence as part of its sensor benchmarks and you can commonly see a difference of ±1/3 EVs. The other ...


5

Theoretically both images should be the same brightness, even though the NEX sensor is larger, it stills receives same amount of light per unit area both lenses were set to f/3.5. The difference in brightness is due to different processing, there's nothing in the ISO standard that guarantee the same digital brightness values given the same exposure and ISO ...


5

There are many photos in the A6000 pool that look amazing [...] I can't get that close with any of my photos on the a6000. I think this is probably the most important point here - the photographer is much more important than the gear in making a photo. The best thing you can do at this point is to go away and practice, practice, practice (and possibly do ...


5

If you're using a disconnected non-dedicated external flash like this, it'll be unmetered - you'll have to set all the exposure and flash parameters manually to get the image you want. The first flash from your onboard flash is a metering flash for auto flash exposures. With manual exposures like this, it's neither needed nor even useful. So, set your ...


5

An alternative to the optical triggers or a new flash that Chriss H recomended. If your external head allow it, lower the power to 1/2 - 1/4, so the flash has enough power to trigger twice. The problem is that your camera can "think" there is enough light so it won't fire for the exposure. You can not have all on life.


5

Don't stand directly in front of the house. That angle is boring. Move to the side if possible to capture the angles of the structure. You may have to get a lens with a low focal length (14mm or 12mm) to capture the yard and the house in one shot (without capturing the neighbors' property too). Wait for a clear or partly cloudy day with lots of blue sky. ...


5

This is how to sell your house, but it's just wrong. Taking photos There's so little light that it barely casts shadows. Regardless of how much light there is in winter, taking the photo when the sun is at your back and not too high in the sky will maximize the light on the building. You can try standing back farther and using a long lens (telephoto), and ...


4

You are correct that there is no free lunch. Software NR works by looking for sharp edges and trying to identify what is detail and what is noise, but at a very fine level, they can't be distinguished. What you will normally see with light NR is a reduction in fine detail, but gross detail is maintained. The more you turn up NR, the more gross the detail ...


4

You are looking at it wrong. I've never had an accident or ever even seen an accident occur while I've been driving, but Nascar drivers are either in or witness accidents all the time. Does that mean that Nascar drivers are worse drivers? No, it means they are in situations where accidents happen more frequently. The same thing applies to your Flickr ...


4

I think the key thing for here is that smaller sensors inherently have more depth of field at the same aperture number and framing. That means that with a larger sensor, focus is more critical. It's not that the larger sensor is really worse. With a camera phone, in low light, the result will be very noisy (with automatic, non-optional noise reduction ...


4

An adapter is great if you already have Canon lenses or want to share lenses between Canon DSLRs and NEX cameras - but it isn't that good compared to getting the Sony lens. No adapter is perfect (actually, the lens and camera aren't perfect either) The adapter will add some more (usually small and almost unnoticeable, unless you pixelpeep) misalignment to ...


4

The ratio f/2.8 means the diameter of the entrance pupil is equal to the focal length divided by 2.8. The key thing to note about the above is that the entrance pupil is the image of the aperture stop as seen through the front of the lens, the ratio does not depend on the physical size of the aperture itself. A rear-mounted 2x teleconverter, such as you ...


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