9

DRO stands for Dynamic Range Optimization. It is designed to fit more dynamic range into images. A single exposure is still taken so you are always limited to the sensor's latitude. However, from what the sensor captures, more or less of that range is mapped into images. With fixed values, the transform is applied the same to each image. With Auto, it ...


7

ISOs lower than 100 on the A7 are not "real" in the sense that they don't lower the gain on the sensor, they just instruct the camera to increase exposure time as if the sensitivity was lower. The net result of this is reduced highlight headroom. If you shoot RAW there is nothing really to be gained from any ISO setting less than 100.


6

Does old mf lenses give better image quality compared to new kit lens? You'd have to test it, or find tests others have made with those specific lenses. "Old MF lens" spans a huge range of image quality; there is not a single answer for all of them. The test I like to use is to print an ISO 12233 still image test chart onto two pieces of letter-sized paper,...


6

Well, sort of. There's no such thing as absolute equivalence. In terms of angle of view a 55mm lens will give the same AoV with a 1.5X APS-C sensor as an 85mm lens on a 36x24mm FF camera. In terms of exposure you'd need a 55mm f/1.8 to get the same AoV and exposure in the same light as an 85mm f/1.8 on a FF. In terms of depth of field (DoF), you'd need a ...


5

Most recent Canon lenses will work in AF mode with the Metabones smart adapter (even the 50 f/1.4, which is not reported to work but I've just tried mine and it does :) Your Tamron is reported to work. "Work" is however a relative term, autofocus may function but it will be incredibly slow and can be unreliable. Other electronic functions such as automatic ...


5

The reason you can't adapt E-mount lenses to your A-mount camera is the same reason you can't adapt rangefinder lenses to a dSLR--the flange distance. The flange distance is the distance from the image plane that the lens is held by the lens mount. This distance is specific to each mount system, and must be maintained for a lens to focus through its full ...


5

How large does the image circle have to be to get it to project correctly on the image sensor? This part of the answer deals with the shift of the lens only. The answer for the tilt is much more complicated (i.e., I haven't cranked out the maths). In order for the image to be projected onto the sensor, without any clipping at the corners of the sensor, ...


5

1) First of all. Forget the "bad reviews"... forget the reviews in general. If you like the way your lens works, enjoy taking photos. You need to test your lens and know the specific flaws you detect. Ok then you can read a review to understand what you already see. 2) In my humble opinion. Manual focus in a digital camera without a focusing screen is a ...


4

Ultra-wide lenses typically didn't exist in film days. Anything below 24mm is very hard to find. You might be able to grab an 18mm (like, say, the Olympus OM 18/3.5), but understand these were super-exotic at the time, and are liable to go for high prices. You'd probably be better off saving up for the 16-35, getting the 28/2 with the 21mm wide converter, ...


4

Nikkor Ultra-Wide Lenses Nikon used to make, and still makes, several non-distorting manual-focus prime ultra-wide lenses. Some are discontinued whilst others are still available for sale new to date. Their focal lengths are: 13mm, 15mm, 18mm, and 20mm. Personally I'd buy a 13mm just because it looks and feels awesome. The 13mm f5.6 Pictured below in its ...


4

This looks like sensor dust. It probably is. The reason that it appears only in certain conditions is that dust spots get larger with a smaller aperture. Since you were shooting into the sun, the camera had no choice but to set a very narrow aperture and it made your sensor dust more visible. This is easy to test. You stop down the aperture yourself, ...


4

From the online manual: You can easily switch the focusing mode from auto to manual and vice versa while shooting without changing your holding position. Switch the AF/MF/AEL switch lever to the AF/MF position, then press the AF/MF button. During auto focus: Temporarily switches the focusing mode to manual. Adjust the focus while the AF/MF button is ...


4

It seems to me you have an X-Y problem here. The actual issue you're trying to solve is "how can I tell if my product photography is sharp", but you've jumped straight to the solution of "view it on a laptop". It seems to me the best solution here is "get better at telling on your camera if the photo is sharp enough or not". How sharp it needs to be is ...


4

The hot shoes I am familiar with are designed to accept metal cold shoes. You can tell by looking closely at the shoe on the camera, the contacts will be slightly recessed and only have contact when connecting a device that has contacts meant to push into these recesses. Also, hot shoes should have a protection circuit in them as well. Cameras can get ...


4

A simple lens consisting of one glass element can be used for pictorial photography. However, all lenses suffer degradation due to focus defects called aberrations. Lens makers have struggled with camera design since the beginning. They are unable to eliminate aberrations; however clever designs make them all but disappear. Since there are seven major types ...


4

There is no calculation required. If you are happy with 50mm now, just buy a 50mm "fixed' lens, as 50mm is always 50mm regardless of what the sensor size is. Yes, the field of view changes with different sensor sizes, but you are not changing the sensor, so 50mm will equal 32 degrees FOV with any 50mm lens you buy. Due to minor differences in stated ...


3

The one hesitation you mention is whether you can use your existing lenses, so I'm going to answer from that perspective. Ultimately the choice of whether or not something is better for you is a very personal decision that only you can answer — but this part is more straightforward. Are your three Nikon zoom lenses high end, expensive glass? Since the D40x ...


3

The mechanical shutter is still between the translucent mirror and the sensor when the camera is turned off. Even if you select the option to use electronic first curtain with mechanical second curtain, which leaves the shutter open just as many cameras do to use Live View or record video, it doesn't leave the sensor unprotected when the camera is turned off....


3

My Answer maybe a little off topic as I am not recommending a Macro Lens. The challenges and issues you are encountering, are not as a result of the camera equipment you mention, but more to do with the two points listed below which will help in improving your Jewellery Macro shots. 1.Aperture size. Due to the close proximity of the Lens and subject, in ...


3

Try using manual focus. There probably is not enough light for your camera's auto focus system to work properly.


3

The latest Sony cameras include an Android subsystem used to run apps from the proprietary Sony PlayMemories Camera App Store (PMCA). We reverse engineered the installation process. This allows you to install custom Android apps on your camera. https://github.com/ma1co/Sony-PMCA-RE


3

Lenses are interchangeable if they are made for the same mount and cover at least the imaging circle of the camera. Unfortunately, Sony offers a lot of combinations and has even changed naming recently. They have 2 mounts, E-mount and A-mount. Both of these have APS-C or Full-Frame coverage, so there are in all 4 combinations (APS-C A-mount, Full-Frame A-...


3

It could damage the new camera, but if everything is dry it's quite unlikely. But if you're risk-averse don't try it. If there are or were any signs of salt water having got inside the optics it will be ruined optically anyway, so there's no point testing. Unless the lens is worth quite a bit it might be worth the test, but not if the camera is expensive. ...


3

There are a number of different ways to trigger the i40 off-camera. SD/SF slave modes These are simple optical slave modes that are built into the flash, and can trigger it remotely on any flash burst, including the one from your α6000's pop-up flash. SD (slave digital) is if your pop-up is in TTL (has a single preflash), SF (slave film) is if your ...


3

You can share your A-mount lenses with an autofocus A-mount Minolta 35mm film body, but not an MC/MD-mount manual focus one--that's a completely different mount, different registration distance, different bayonet/physical linkage. No electronic communication. While you could, theoretically adapt with a ring, you'd have issues with vignetting if your A-mount ...


3

From Section 235 of the ILCA-77M2 Help Guide The support page for your camera that includes several other resources can be accessed at https://esupport.sony.com/US/p/model-home.pl?mdl=ILCA77M2&template_id=1&region_id=1&tab=manuals#/manualsTab


3

Have you tried it with image settings set to JPEG instead of RAW? The Auto HDR function is not selectable if you are saving raw images. There are also other settings that will disable Auto HDR. They're listed on pages 108-9 of the α33/α55 Instruction Manual:


3

Modern lenses have some advantages when it comes contrast, because coatings have gotten better, but there are some vintage lenses with great contrast like the Contax Yashica Carl Zeiss Planar T* series. There's a chance you will find you prefer the lower contrast of vintage lenses. Also, you would think that primes would be better than zoom lenses as a rule (...


3

Sony has made this super confusing by using alpha (α) —which is commonly rendered "A" — in the names of these E-mount cameras. (Thanks, Sony!) The current scheme seems to be: α followed by two digits = A-mount; all others (one digit, four digits, one digit and some letters, whatever) are E-mount. In addition to their "common names", these cameras also have ...


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