25

There isn't really any surefire way, other than meticulous bookkeeping, or following consistent habits. Some ideas: Use your mobile phone to take images of the rear LCD info page showing the file name for the first and last image each of you take each time you operate the camera. For instance, if you take a dozen pictures, when you're done shooting for a ...


14

Nikon D3400 (and, I assume, other models) lets you select the active folder to store files in. Just change folders when you change photographers. More generally, you can use two memory cards and change cards when you change photographers.


12

One solution that might work if you don't switch too frequently: Take a selfie whenever you take the camera. Then you know all following pictures have been made by the person of the most recent selfie. (Maybe you should think about a "sign" if you do frequently take pictures of eachother.) I did this at a previous job, where we first also used to keep a ...


8

The Sony A77 has a Digital 1.4x and a 2x “Smart Teleconverter Feature”. This feature crops the image with no image quality loss, albeit, at a smaller size cropped from the centre At full size of 24 Megapixels, you get 6000 x 4000 When you do a 1.4x Digital Tele-convert you get a 12 Megapixel image which equates to 4240 x 2832 at 2x Digital Tele-convert, ...


5

Mirrorless cameras in general lack focus adjustment, because they can't benefit from it. The purpose of that feature is to correct for the fact that DSLRs use a separate focusing sensor to determine whether the image is in focus, and it varies a bit from lens to lens because differences in focal length make that difference larger or smaller. With a ...


4

Since you state that "the A7iii is perfect", you probably won't be entirely happy with either the A6500 or A7ii. You'll probably be less unhappy with the A7ii. However, if you have no pressing need to get a new camera this instant ("hoping to shoot this week" is pretty vague), you would likely benefit from waiting a bit longer. Nikon and Canon are expected ...


4

From the article linked: advances in circuitry design and image processing mean that the new camera can output all 15 stops of dynamic range in the lower ISOs rather than the a7R II’s 14 stops of output. Dynamic-range is a ratio, so by improving the circuitry, they can reduce read noise. By having lower read noise, even with the same well-capacity, ...


3

This is known as "banding". This happens when you have uniform color gradients and the quantization by the camera (because JPEG is only 8bits/channel) transforms them into uniform areas. Along the edge of these areas the value "jumps" and our eyes are quite sensitive to this. This can be checked with the histogram, which assumes a hair comb shape (the ...


3

Let me add few points related mostly around the cameras. You do not leave with body only, you need lenses. And here (especially Sony) where the "game" become veeeeery expensive. You can find 18-105/f4 for crop Sony for 500 euro. But for FF Sony 24-105/f4 cost 1350 euro. I personally used 18-105 on A6000 and was very happy. I will not continue discussion ...


2

The Sony website lists a few non-app-based remote release options for the α7R II, namely the RMT-DSLR2 Wireless Remote Commander, the RM-VPR1 Remote Control with Multi-Terminal Cable, and the RM-SPR1 Remote Commander.


2

I just can't figure out if I'm stuck in the details or if I'm really losing out on something one way or the other. I'm a hobbyist looking to get more serious. You're stuck in the details. The A7iii is not a magical leap over the A7ii. And full-frame gives you more options in some situations, but the vast majority of photographers aren't doing anything where ...


2

The horizontal light and dark bands looks like a flickering issue, which is common with many artificial light sources. Some cameras have an anti-flickering setting. If such a setting is not available, you can try dropping the shutter speed to something like 1/40. If the problem goes away, you can gradually increase the shutter speed until just before banding ...


2

Add value to your data. Attach a tiny clap board to the camera strap with a white board marker. Write the lighting conditions, location (including studio, expo stand or office details that are not available from GPS), event if you moved back and forth between more than one on a given day, photographer and photo model details on the little white board and ...


2

You've been offered some ingenious methods, but you're not really going to go to the trouble of any of them, are you! Either buy two cameras, or convince yourself it doesn't matter which one of you pressed the button.


2

Change the date, shifting by 5 years in the future for one of the two users (add 5 years for each additional user). You can easily mass-change the date later via several EXIF tools.


2

Take a picture of your hand or shoe prior to the shoot. Easier than a selfie.


1

A Canon-based answer: You can add a 1-5 star EXIF compatible rating to each photo (there is also an option to set it „star“ or „no star“) with a button. One of you could set such a rating after each photo.


1

Just have multiple SD cards, one per person. You're using the camera? Put in your card.


1

Many cameras can add Author and Copyright to the Exif. When switching cameras, you can edit the Author. This would be cumbersome without a touchscreen. Consider taking selfies or pictures of ID badges, as flawr suggests.


1

The banding seems similar to that from "rolling shutter", where parts of the image sensor are scanned sequentially during the flickering of fluorescent and LED lighting. A few ways to avoid, or at least reduce, the problem: Use fill light from a source that doesn't flicker, such as daylight or incandescent lamps. Use a flash, either direct or bounced. ...


1

The feature you are seeking is Auto Review. It is located in the menu under Display/Auto Review. From page 69 of the manual (pdf): Auto Review: Sets auto review to display the captured image after shooting.


1

Perfect focus in the dark can be obtained with the SharpStar2 Filter Mask: https://youtu.be/9WgCPTrCv60 . It's a Bahtinov Mask that produces diffraction lines around a bright object (even a Star) and allows exact manual focusing. See: http://www.lonelyspeck.com/sharpstar/ . A more expensive method with limited distance is to use a "Auto Focus Illuminator" ...


1

it seems like its a sort of function to help auto focus, I've noticed relatively similar results with a couple of my lenses, but obviously (from my icon), I'm a Nikon fanboy, so I have no experience with Sony equipment, but since my guess is its related to auto focus, do you have the auto focus function turned off on the lens itself as well as the camera ...


1

I'm pretty sure you just press display a couple of times. I work in a camera shop and can try this and confirm tomorrow (gmt) will edit my answer to either confirm this or give the correct answer


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