27

It depends on what you mean by "highest". If you have enough light, then the first thing you should do is to reduce the ISO setting to the minimum, so that you can get as much light as possible on the sensor1. Lower ISO means less noise, more dynamics. If there is still enough light, then close the diaphragm a bit compared to its maximum possible aperture (...


20

There is more shutter lag because the shutter has to close first before opening again to expose the shot. When you turn on live view, the mirror is raised and the shutter is opened, so the image formed by the sensor can be fed constantly to the LCD. When you take a shot in live view, the shutter closes again to 'reset' the sensor before the actual exposure ...


17

Basically the cable release is powered by the camera. The cable release doesn't send a signal to the camera, like the wireless remote. Instead the camera provides a current in one of the leads, and the cable release closes the circuit so that the current flows back to the camera. In older cameras the shutter release buttons were mechanical, but nowadays ...


14

Yes it is possible with all DSLRs. The 30s limit of all non-Olympus DSLRs is for timed exposures, meaning you dial in the time ahead of time and the exposure takes up to 30s (or 60s for Olympus). All DSLRs also have a bulb mode which you press the shutter to start the exposure and let go when you are done. This can also be done with a remote control which ...


11

This is called "Bulb Mode". On most DSLRs (including the D5100), you would change to shutter priority or manual mode and slide the shutter speed larger until it reads "Bulb" or something of the sort.


11

Since the other answers suggesting using an interface such as triggertrap don't address the specific question to your satisfaction: No, this is very, very unlikely to work. Despite the plugs being similar, they serve very different purposes. The camera release is basically an open circuit with a voltage potential (measured at 3v on mine) waiting to be closed ...


10

That is the self-timer which does that. Press the left arrow and you will see the drive mode menu and choose the one with a rectangle rather than a clock. It will then take a photo in a fraction of a second, almost instantly after the shutter is fully pressed.


10

As long as you aren't pointing the camera at the sun, lasers etc. (see this question) You should be ok, at worst you'll get a completely over exposed image and the camera may give an over heating warning or the battery will run flat. This is based on the general consensus (google to the rescue): http://www.photographyblogger.net/six-common-myths-about-...


10

Unfortunately, selfie sticks are manufactured with very different designs one from another and with very wide range of standards (i.e. you can get worthless garbage or overbuilt luxury), so it is highly difficult to know all possible connection/activation mechanisms. Use with smartphones A huge number of s. sticks are made for smartphones, meaning that ...


8

No. If you have a faster shutter speed, you must be either increasing the aperture or the ISO to compensate. Both of those have effects on your photos, which may or may not be what you want: for example you may not want to shoot with your lens wide open, either because you want a greater depth of field or because you know your lens isn't sharp wide open.


7

If you're shooting in summer daylight with very long exposure times, regardless of whether you damage your sensor or not, you're going to get a completely blown out image, with no recoverable data. If you want very long exposures in bright light, your only real choice is to cut the amount of light going through the lens. For this, you'd normally use a ...


7

Put it in Manual (M) mode and roll the wheel until it shows 'Bulb' on the display. Press and hold the shutter button for the desired length of time. You don't need a remote, but it helps to prevent camera shake to a great extent. P.S. The manual is your friend.


7

It seems like you have mirror lockup enabled. The first full press of the shutter button will cause the mirror to move up (just as it does before taking a normal photo using the viewfinder) but the shutter will not be opened. A second full press of the shutter button will activate the shutter to take the photo. If the shutter is not pressed again for 30 ...


6

To me this sounds like the Mirror Lockup custom function setting. When using a tripod this is useful as it first locks up the mirror to avoid the shake from that as the picture is taken, allowing the camera to be as still as physically possible when the second click opens the shutter (assuming you use a cable release). This can be turned off in the menu ...


6

I happened across a link in a comment by @ysap in an obliquely related question I surfed into.


6

You should base your decisions for shutter speed, aperture, and ISO, on your artistic needs, so that you achieve a correct exposure, the amount of bokeh/sharpness you desire, and low noise. See What is the "exposure triangle"? A high shutter speed will help to reduce shake, but it makes no difference after a certain point (typically cited as "1/...


6

Make sure you don't have live view on. Live view is a camera mode where you are able to view the camera's current POV much like the eyepiece, except that you are able to simulate your exposure settings / software optical filters (such as sepia and contrast/white balance enhancement) on screen (assuming your camera has a screen). If live view is on, you ...


6

Yes, you can but you need an opto-isolator I've built a few cable releases for Canons, from a simple pushbutton to a USB (via a USB-RS232 dongle) trigger, to one triggered off a burglar alarm PIR sensor (for use as a camera trap). It won't be simple to trigger it off a sound card. If you can get enough voltage you might be able to modify my USB trigger ...


5

While you can use the Bulb mode and press the shutter release button, the button presses are likely to cause unwanted camera shake, even on the sturdiest tripod. I use and recommend an intervalometer such as this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA04D09G0109 Notice that the shutter release time can be set for any time up to 99 hours, 59 ...


5

It always make two sound (four, to be precise). The first (pair) one is a mirror hitting upper limit (and shutter opening) to free the path to the sensor and the second (pair) one is the mirror hitting the lower limit to reflect the light in the prism (and shutter closing). If the shutter speed is fast enough you cannot notice these two (four) sounds as ...


5

It sounds like you might have the two-second timer enabled. When you press the shutter button the mirror moves up. Then two seconds later the camera takes the picture. This is a useful feature when shooting from a tripod and using shutter times from around 1 second to 1/100 second when the vibrations from the mirror movement can actually affect the photo. ...


5

This will vary from one camera maker to the next, and perhaps from different camera models within the same brand.¹ Built-in popup flashes are, for the most part, spring loaded. There is always tension on the spring when the flash is stowed in its closed position. There's usually a small 'hook' of some kind that holds the flash down when it is not in use. ...


4

In addition to the good stuff that @Ital wrote, you should know that when doing very long exposures with a digital camera, the sensors can over heat and self-generate noise.


4

Luckily, you are wrong. There are plenty of non-DSLRs with remotes, either wired or infrared red. Search for cameras with infrared remotes and look at the breakdown by size on the left. As of today, their are 4 ultra-compacts, 7 compacts and 7 SLDs. Do the same for cameras with wired remotes and you will see the smallest is the Olympus ZX-1 among a number ...


4

The 30D remote shutter release is very simple - all you have to do to activate the shutter is short two pins - no arduino needed. All you need is to take a microswitch (I used the reset button from an old computer for my DIY shutter release) and connect it the old shutter release cable so that the old cable presses the microswitch (sounds like a job for ...


4

According to page 170 of the manual the only way to have it automatically do it on its own is to remote/timer setting with 2 second or 10 second timer. This will result in all three shots taken with one press. Otherwise, you have to hold down in continuous modes or press three times in single shot modes.


4

It is not just Canon bodies. Almost every brand of camera that uses a mini-stereo jack has the exact same pinout: The tip is the full press wire, the middle is the half press wire, and the base is the common ground. Even cameras which need other shape connectors almost all use the same three connections, they just vary the shape and arrangement of them. ...


4

You need to keep the button half pressed. The setting is not locked when you push half way. If you let go, the system believes you decided not to take the photo or the lock was no good (maybe it focused on the wrong thing). When you release the button, the settings are also released. You need to press half way and keep the button half pressed after the ...


4

I do not think that there is a good answer to this without knowing the exact camera model and how it was used. For example, shooting video might exercise the mirror and shutter less, but may cause much greater thermal cycling of the sensor and electronics (at least one of my cameras gets very hot to the touch after shooting a lot of video).


4

I think there is some urban myths regarding this, and that this has to do with the CCD/CMOS debate some time ago. CCD sensors really heated up so much that they cannot record video. The technology then switched to CMOS, that can support video seamlessly, and not heating that much. Obviously, having the sensor to be working for hours taking video instead for ...


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