16
CIPA ratings between two cameras from the same generation and from the same manufacturer can sometimes be useful. Comparing CIPA ratings across different brands is pretty much meaningless.
Here's why.
CIPA rating - A measurement of the number of images a digital still camera can take on a single battery charge. The procedure for determining this rating ...
8
According to the guys at Magic Lantern, when you open the SD card door and the light flashes while it accesses the SD card, you should wait until several seconds after the light stops flashing as it is still accessing the card (which is silly, because that light has one job!) or you can cause the camera to lock up and drain the battery.
7
If I were you, I'd go ahead and buy another battery on Amazon. If a new battery fixes it, dispose of your old one, and you're good for $15. If not, it might be an internal problem and you'd probably have to send it to Canon.
Edit Per OP's comment, the problem seems to have been narrowed down to whether the memory card is inserted or not.
Try it with a new ...
7
Can I do anything about a Nikon... (with) saltwater damage?
Since Nikon does not sell internal repair parts to other service centers or to end users, and does not repair water damaged cameras themselves, your options are very limited. Beyond a simple disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly from a third party repair service there's not much of anything you can ...
7
You are correct to observe that the reduced power is the key to your flash's ability to freeze motion. More flashes may work (see caveat below) but since more gear usually costs more money, here are some alternatives
Slow the Event
If you are recording water droplets, record them right after they form. It takes a few feet for the drop to "speed up." If you ...
6
Yes.
Speedlights reduce the light output by turning the "power" off earlier.
This way the time the flash is on is reduced, which results in shorter flash duration for lower power flashes.
Adding another flash will keep the flash duration the same but double the overall output.
You might as well increase ISO.
6
Salt water is very destructive. It is likely something is corroded in a way you can not fix yourself. Send it for repair.
They may or may not decide that it's worth doing — you may be in for repair costs greater than the value of the camera. But, Nikon does do service on salt-water damaged gear, as evidenced here.
6
I take it you mean leaving the switch always on, and letting the camera go to sleep after a timeout (as most cameras do).
This isn't going to hurt your camera in any meaningful way. It just wastes a small amount of battery. And if you store it that way, a bump of the shutter button could take some dark shots of the inside of your camera bag. Those things ...
5
Just wanted to add to this thread in case my solution can help anyone else.
I just had a similar issue, occasionally got an Error 80 when powering up. I would get no display with any of my cards in, but if I took the card out my display would start up again, but obviously I couldn't take any photos. As soon as I put a card in, the display wouldn't work ...
4
As the comments to the original question indicate, it depends on exactly which camera you are talking about.
Nikon lenses have a mechanical connection for aperture control that is spring loaded at both the camera end and inside the lens that could suffer damage if disconnected while in the wrong position. If the tab on the control lever in the camera is ...
4
Judging by the descriptions I found on Google e.g. from Benel
The Falcon Eyes LH-ESB6060K Continuous Daylight Set contains two standard lamp holders each with a foldable 50x50cm softbox, two diffuse cloths (50x50cm), eight 40W energy saving spiral lamps with a power comparability of 200W each and two i-2501/B light stands (2.5m).
This set is ideal ...
3
Olympus doesn't make an AC adapter for this camera. (They do / did for higher-end models.)
However, there is another option: a third party "fake battery" which actually connects to a power source. Fujifilm actually makes an official one for their cameras (they call it a "DC coupler"). I'm not aware of any off-the-shelf commercial solution to fit the E-M10, ...
3
Well, it's convention. And the convention makes sense since J is an energy unit associated with work and heat in general while Ws is in terms of power (specifically electrical power) and time which are units relevant to the photographer.
If I can shoot with 1kW of lighting at 1/10 sec, I can equivalently use a flash with 100Ws of energy (assuming similar ...
3
The cameras often have a "type-B" USB connector (the "peripheral" side) and these aren't supposed to provide current (they are the side that normally draws current).
On addition the batteries in a camera aren't that big, you couldn't draw significant current from them without impacting the battery life.
2
I don't know if it's exactly the same thing, but earlier in October, Canon released a product advisory for their LP-E6 batteries and the LC-E6 charger.
Full details can be found here.
2
How long have you left them on the charger? From completely dead, it can take quite a while to charge the batteries. I would leave the batteries on the charger for 8+ hours and then try them in the camera by itself, without the grip. If they don't work and other batteries do work in the camera, then it sounds like a dead battery.
Another option you could ...
2
I know its a late reply but it could help someone with similar issue as mine.
I had given my camera to a friend for couple of days. After receiving the camera, the battery was drained overnight.
Changed couple of batteries, with and without lens, 3 firmwares. Nothing worked!
After installing Magic Lantern, saw that the Access light was continuously ...
2
I ended up solving this by doing a very large DIY project.
Essentially I took a Canon P&S, modified the power button so it'll turn on when the external timer turns on solar power. I then modified the firmware using CHDK and the Ultimate Intervalometer script, which automatically takes 1 photo every 7 minutes.
The photos are saved to the Eye-Fi card, ...
2
Yes, that is normal, and a correct description. The recessed pin is for safety, to keep out unapproved connections. Be aware that there is about 325 volts on this cable. It does not just attach a battery as such, but attaches a battery powered high voltage converter, which directly charges the flash capacitor.
2
I see that a complete set should include a key, a fill, a hair and a background light.
What a complete set includes is very subjective and depends a lot on the desired look. Given that this is your first set, I would shy away from buying that many units. Start with one or two and add them as necessary.
You didn't buy the "complete" set of lenses for your ...
2
Does anyone know how much power out we can get from the USB port in a DSLR camera.
For the vast majority of DSLR cameras, the answer is: "None."
2
Most cameras have historically operated in USB Device mode (which can, but is not required to, receive power from the host), not USB Host mode (which can, but is not required to, supply power to the connected device).
There is a third mode, USB OTG (on-the-go), which was created to allow for devices to act as both hosts (to power peripherals) and devices (...
1
Yes, you can use four speedlights. I always used to use two flashes for water drops, connected by sync cords.
But if 1/16 power is not enough, then it sounds like the problem is that your distance to flash is too great, and you must not be using ISO. The YN-560 guide number at 1/16 power 35 mm flash zoom (for example) is GN 16 (feet, ISO 100, chart in ...
1
Can I dim lights by making amount of power smaller?
Possibly. This light appears to be simple lamp (no controlling electronics in the lamp — basically, a glorified table lamp). If that's the case, then if and only if your CFL bulbs are dimmable, you can use a CFL-compatible dimmer to control this lamp.
Again, non-dimmable CFL bulbs should not be used with ...
1
Your set is a basic one. Most likely you can not dim thoose lights, but this depends on the type of light you have on it.
To dim the light you need to turn off 1, 2 or 3 lamps. If you do not have a specific switch for it, unscrew them.
Another method to dim the lights are moving away your lightbox.
Playing with an AC power regulator potentially will cause ...
1
My Canon 50D is always on. What can I do to minimise battery loss?
Get the On-Off switch fixed?
Sounds reasonable, however I’m on a several months long trip, unlikely to stay long enough in one place to get it fixed. In addition, few places I’ve visited have camera stores that could fix it. I’d like to know what I can do now, before returning home where ...
1
I had a problem with my 70D suddenly not wanting to work properly and then complaining about the SD-card. It turned out to be one of the thin plastic separators between the connectors that had broken off at one end and interfered with the connectivity. Removing that fixed it.
You may have a similar problem, but with the "Do not work without card inserted" ...
1
Charging the camera battery inside the camery is a heat issue - batteries get warm to hot while getting charged, and the camera electronics, especially the sensor, would have issues with that.
Operating the camera with a cable and a power bank dangling is also not a typical use case, as you move around and hold the camera up.
Most cameras can be connected ...
1
For your camera and many of Nikon's current and past point-and-shoot models, the Nikon EH-62F will do the trick. Many other brands offer similar accessories for at least some of their models.
When the adapter offered has a plastic lump to replace the battery, it means the camera can't be powered using the USB port (if it has one) for anything except ...
1
The problem may be the voltage rather than the mAH. A standard AA is 1.5 volts. If your battery is only providing 1.2 volts, it may be insufficient voltage for the circuitry to operate on.
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