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55

Certainly the biggest factor is the dynamic range processing. The room is so bright, and shares the same color temperature as the outdoors daylight lighting. Yet the shadows in the balcony and near the glass door, which are closer to the light source, are the darkest parts of the scene. Also, one "fakeness" indicator that your mind might not have caught, ...


42

Going from negative film to a printed image is a two-step process. First, the negative is developed — the latent image on the film brought out and then fixed in place. Now you have a piece of translucent film with a negative image on it. Second, to go to a the final print on paper, you then essentially repeat the process, shining light through the negative ...


25

There isn't really any surefire way, other than meticulous bookkeeping, or following consistent habits. Some ideas: Use your mobile phone to take images of the rear LCD info page showing the file name for the first and last image each of you take each time you operate the camera. For instance, if you take a dozen pictures, when you're done shooting for a ...


25

Short answer because there are many good explanations already: The brightest part of your picture is the background. The brightest part of the second picture is the subject.


24

The thing that sets off the alarm is the perfectly bright and uniform lighting in the room, especially on its ceiling. The room should be quite dark, since the sun is on the other side of the building (according to the building in the background). You can see through the window (and in the big mirror) that the ceiling of the balcony is more realistically in ...


24

I'd guess it's as simple as selecting the subject in Photoshop - with a tad more care & attention than I've used below, then leeching out the saturation in the background & tonally balancing towards a sepia effect. As a very quick demo I did the same thing but made it a pretty garish purple instead. Once you have your mask you can treat inside &...


21

The focus seems too even to me.  I would expect a photo taken to have something blurrier, either in the foreground or background.


17

I thought an illustration would be helpful. It's the same principle as an overhead projector, another mostly obsolete piece of technology: Where instead of textbook text on a transparency, the source image is a film negative, which is also transparency. The screen in the image would in turn be another paper film, which is developed in the regular process....


15

There is an additional element not taken into account in other answers, the color grading. First, let us compare the two histograms. Here is the kitty one. And here is your photo's As you can see, the kitty's one, even if there are zones that are clearly on a dark shadow, like behind the trunks you do not have any black. This is perceived as a higher ...


14

Nikon D3400 (and, I assume, other models) lets you select the active folder to store files in. Just change folders when you change photographers. More generally, you can use two memory cards and change cards when you change photographers.


12

One solution that might work if you don't switch too frequently: Take a selfie whenever you take the camera. Then you know all following pictures have been made by the person of the most recent selfie. (Maybe you should think about a "sign" if you do frequently take pictures of eachother.) I did this at a previous job, where we first also used to keep a ...


11

When an image contains pure white (#fff or values RGB 255/255/255) - we refer to this as "blown" or "blown out". There is nothing you can do to alter these pixels to gain lost detail. For example, I've cranked the levels to darken everything, yet here those pixels are...in all their blown glory: Keeping that in mind, the only thing that you can do is ...


10

The second photo is much sharper than the first. This is probably a combination of: A sharper lens. The examples I've seen of the Tamron 70-300mm f/4-5.6 Di LD are not sharp enough to produce the second photo, even when perfect technique is used. Cheap 70-300mm zoom lenses, such as your Tamron, are almost universally softest at 300mm compared to other ...


8

Another approach, since as Hueco mentions in his answer, this detail is blown out and unrecoverable - is we can try to reduce it's impact by attempting to darken some of the blurred "halo" effects that surround the bright reflections. The process here is not too dissimilar to manually performing an unsharp mask. I'm going to focus on this one section, as it'...


7

Visible color of an object looks like something objective — if it looks yellow then it looks yellow, why change it in the first place? I just don't see how this color alteration is useful. This is the fundamental misunderstanding. Visible color is not objective at all. That sounds surprising if you haven't really stopped to consider or investigate, but it ...


7

That's because you inadvertently selected the "Perspective Clone" tool instead of "Perspective".


7

Not in the darkroom, but at the retouching (spotting) table. If you're working with large format film, you can paint them out on the negative. But that's risky. Most of the time you retouch the print. I never did any of it myself, but in college there were artists who would advertise their services in the photography department. I saw some of them in ...


6

Straight away I should mention that lunar photography is different that astrophotography of deep-sky objects. The types of frames you are describing (calibration frames) are extremely helpful for deep-sky objects but not as useful for lunar photography. You probably wont need to worry too much about noise in lunar photography because you can take those ...


6

Many differences have been suggested already, many of which I agree with, breifly. One's a gorilla, the other's a big cat. Cats look cool, they can't help it. Gorilla is landscape, cat is portrait. Gorilla is cropped, including missing a hand. Cat is full. I can see [or rather, thankfully, not see] the reasoning behind this - gorilla 'parts'… somewhat ...


5

What you seem to be after is a metering mode that places the highest priority on not blowing the highlights. This is important for many photographers and many lighting situations. But there are also other times when getting the shadows or the midtones properly exposed is more important to the photographer. At those points where the dynamic range of the scene ...


5

On fair days the world is illuminated by a combination of sunlight and skylight. On overcast days, the world is illuminated by skylight only. Now skylight is very blue thus images reproduce with a blueish tint. If you were using color slide film, the remedy is to mount a warming filter. The most popular is the Wratten 1A (Kodak trade name) commonly called a “...


5

Others have covered rather well your very limited post processing options. Of course the best way is to shoot the image with the proper exposure to begin with. While this doesn't really answer the question directly, it is far too long for a comment. The following does respond to a comment by the OP to another answer. Thanks! I've learned a whole lot, ...


5

Didn't the photographer use flash? A common practice to make subjects "stand out" is to use flash for proper subject exposure, and to use camera settings to slightly underexposure the background. That is my guess here, instead of post processing.


5

As far as sorting files by time, but not date, I know of no file or image manager that has such a feature. However, it is possible to move or rename files into folders based on your desired parameters. The "standard" tool for processing files based on Exif data is exiftool. Normally, I would move files into folders based on the date images were taken: ...


4

Looking at this photographers’ other images, it is clear that she is initially positioning her subjects where she is able to take full advantage of the composition with the help of wide apertures and shallow depth of field on her 85mm f/1.8 lens with a full frame sensor to create the effect. She also very clearly ensures that she only clicks in soft light; ...


4

Spot on color balance is achieved by photographing a grey card or grey/white/black card or, if you want to get fancy, a color checker passport. Use these as the baseline points in post processing to set your white bal for all the shots taken in the same lighting. (Or, one can usually set custom white bal in camera. Dealer’s choice) Because your target ...


4

There area few ways of making such photographs. You could, for instance, use a large aperture to create a shallow depth of field whereby you blur out the background. The human eye doesn't like to look at things that out of focus. By creating a shallow DOF, you will put visual emphasis on your subject. Another way is by creating contrast between your ...


4

It's the effect of changing the white balance that you are seeing in the color shift of the different modes. The camera has to guess the white point of the image in order to render the JPG in automatic mode. In the Landscape mode it is guessing you are outside under natural light. In Sunset mode it guesses the light is yellow at sunset and renders the colors ...


4

Normal enlarging processes are kind of a reversal of taking a photo. In a camera you gather light from a 'large area' in front of the camera, and focus it down onto a small area of film or digital sensor to collect the light. And in regular film photography that will capture an inverse image. Film is made with a clear or at least very transparent base so ...


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