Hot answers tagged

26

Well, it seems obvious that the film did not advance between shots. Whether that's because of user error (film not installed right so it didn't catch on the advancing mechanism) or a hardware issue with the advance mechanism not working properly can't really be determined without more information and/or inspection of the camera... Try taking a couple shots ...


20

Doing double exposures with the k1000 requires that you cock the shutter using the lever while simultaneously holding down the release on the camera bottom. This allows the shutter to cock while not advancing the film. Check to make sure that this release button isn’t sticking in.


17

So, there a couple of basics to get out of the way first. Pentax DSLRs are just fine compared to Canon and Nikon; they're solidly built, have a decent but smaller following, and in fact often have better features at the same price level (because they need to, to compete). That's not to say blindly that "Pentax Is The Best!"; in fact, they're all great and I ...


14

This is a great camera with a lot of advantages for a beginner. It's dead simple and very reliable. It doesn't even need a battery, except to meter. And the meter is great — a simple, direct needle which indicates the overall exposure of the whole frame. I find this much more enjoyable to use than the LED indicators used on newer fancier cameras. Combined ...


11

You apparently have Highlight Correction activated. This forces the higher ISO limit (usually forcing it from 100 to 200, though you also have Expanded Sensitivity enabled, which gives you a broader ISO range starting at 80, thus now 160). So, there's nothing wrong with your camera. Mind you: Options you find that look superior may come with a downside. ...


11

If you move the focus ring, you will find the the 3m/9ft mark is also in orange. Many Pentax wide angle lenses use an orange marking at f/8 which corresponds to an orange hyper-focal focus distance mark on the focus ring. The orange marks are just for convenience for a quick hyperfocal distance reference. When the orange marks are aligned, by using f/8 at ...


10

Film works by changing when exposed to light. If you have exposed the film to light, then any information it captured will be lost as the film will have been completely over-exposed and washed out. If you did it in complete darkness or, if it's orthochromatic, limited spectrum of light to which the film isn't sensitive (like the red lights in a dark room) ...


9

Many lenses from that era had the f/stop calculated by the lens designers to be the "sharpest" or "sweet spot" marked in a different color than the other f-numbers. A cursory survey of a couple of reviews of the lens in question indicate that the reviewers found f/8 to be the sharpest aperture setting. As this answer points out, this particular lens also ...


9

Small haul of Pentax gear, what have I got here? You've got an old film body, two fairly mediocre older zoom lenses, and a pretty good 70-210mm f/4-5.6. The two telephoto zooms have quite a bit of overlap. You've got one of several different 50mm prime lenses offered by Pentax over the years. You've also got an old 1.7X AF adapter that is worth a bit on the ...


8

I don't know about this particular model, but in all my film cameras advancing the film (by pulling the film advance lever) resets the film release lock. Depress shutter with cap on, then advance again. You should see the winder turn, indicating the film is advancing. That should be enough to keep you shooting. (I'm assuming from your post, that you don't ...


8

My direct experience with travel matches advice I was given years ago: expect to take the same kinds of photos, with the same type of equipment, as at home. If you have a particular lens that is rarely needed then there's no reason to expect that this will finally be the time to use it. The same goes for tripods, field notebooks, or any other new habit that ...


8

I started out much the same way, choosing Pentax DSLR because I already had Pentax lenses. While I'm still with Pentax (now on my 3rd: ist-D; K-10D and now K-5), to be honest I barely ever used my original lenses. Absolutely no offense intended but your existing lenses don't look anything particularly special, just as mine weren't - they look perfectly ...


8

I've seen P&S cameras use up a roll in two ways: The film is inserted, the back closed, and then the camera pulls the whole roll onto the take-up spool. As you shoot, each from is "advanced" back into the cassette. When you hit the end, what you've shot is already in the cassette. The film is inserted, the back closed, and the camera then advances to ...


7

The distance, camera to subject determines the perspective of the image. Consider, things close to the camera reproduce large, and things further away, reproduce small. If you work in too close, the nose reproduces too big and the ears too small. We are taking distortion. It is mainly distortion of the facial features that causes the subject to say, “I look ...


7

Just because you have old Pentax consumer grade zoom lenses isn't the best reason to decide to go with a new Pentax digital body. That 28-80 and 80-210 and 100-300 are mediocre consumer level lenses that you should not get excited about. They are worth a little used - but not a lot. The current kit lenses sold with new Pentax digital bodies are better lenses....


7

Page 8 of the manual explains why: NOTE: You can also advance the film to the first exposure with the exposure mode dial set to "AUTO" or "M" (Manual), but for convenience [sic] sake we recommend setting it to "125X." If you use "AUTO," remove the lens cap and point the camera toward the light; otherwise inordinately long exposures will result, delaying ...


6

You have quite a few questions here. The first that you asked was about an ultra wide angle lens for the Pentax KR. Sigma has an option in the Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 EX DC HSM Lens, Pentax also offers the Tamron AF 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5 SP Di II LD Aspherical (IF) Lens. If you are wondering why these two cost around $500, see this previous question: Why are ...


6

I have used P-TTL flash on some events, and have generally been quite satisfied with the results. I don't like the "deer in headlights" look of a direct on-camera flash, so I've only used bounce flash, or off-camera flash. That said, here are some ideas why underexposure might be experienced and how to avoid it. In exposure modes where shutter time is not ...


6

The K1000 has a pentaprism - it will be notably brighter and clearer to look through than even most modern "consumer" DSLRs. It also has a focussing screen with microprism collar and split-screen rangefinder, which is a tremendous help when learning how to focus manually. It's incredibly rugged and reliable, and does not need a battery to operate, so long as ...


6

As far as I know, they do have the same basic sensor technology (not the same sensor), but the key difference between the two cameras in this area is the bit depth. The K-01 has a bit depth of 12 and the K-5 has 14, which means that the K-01 can have 2^12 (4096) different levels of red, green, and blue. The K-5 can have 2^14 (16384) different levels. So, ...


6

The K1000 needs darkness in order to turn off the meter. Changing the ISO, shutter speed, and aperture will just change what the meter is looking for to balance the needle. The circuit that controls whether or not the meter gets power is controlled by a light-sensor that watches for light on the focussing screen. If sufficient light is present (EV2 @ ISO100,...


6

I think what we see here is not the traditional lateral chromatic aberration. This is appearing in the center of the image, in more or less blurred area, the color is blue and purple and is dependent on an f-stop. I think it is a combination of axial chromatic aberration and spherical aberration. Some thoughts: This is probably shot at very short ...


6

Photorec is a similar sort of program which can handle the recovery of PEF files according to their list of supported file formats


6

Using the smallest aperture is not optimal for sharpness, as that causes Diffraction. Go with f/8 or f/11 for best results (it depends on the lens, and some Pentax cameras have a special "MTF" setting in the P mode for that, to always prefer the best aperture. It could be that your "phase detection" focus measuring system is maladjusted. Therefore, try to ...


5

To get a smaller threaded lens to work with a 58mm adaptor just requires the appropriate stepping ring. You can get an entire set of these for not much money, or you can measure the lens to find out exactly which size you need (my money would be on the value stated on the lens itself to be the correct one): http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fotodiox-Anodized-49-52mm-...


5

The manual pretty much says no, the OK button on the rear controls this toggle. It does say, though, that when in the mode to adjust focus there's a little rectangular controller icon that appears in the viewfinder. I checked that on my K-5 and the icon will appear down and immediately to the left of the shutter speed value. So not ideal but at least there's ...


5

No. Even, if someone would build an adapter it could not possibly fully work. One normally adapts a lens for a larger format to a camera with a smaller format. Going the other way, as you suggest, would place a lens with a small imaging circle compared to your sensor or film and result in clipped edges. other words you would only the center which kind of ...


5

Given your update, I would offer that color with digital photography is as much a problem of mathematics as it is getting proper illumination and white balance when actually making the photograph. Your camera senses light, separates that light into discrete collections filtered into certain ranges of wavelength (reds, greens, and blues). Depending on the ...


5

According to the Pentax K50 and K10D manuals, in P mode, if I select aperture, then program will choose a corresponding shutter speed, and if I specify shutter speed, then camera will select a corresponding aperture. Not entirely true. After reading the manual, you can't set values other than ISO. Av & Tv lets you set the aperture & shutter speed (...


5

Yes, you can buy non-stabilized optics for a Pentax. In fact, very few stabilized lenses are available, because all Pentax digital bodies since the 2006 model K100D (excluding K110D) have provided the Shake Reduction sensor stabilization, so there's no need to have stabilization in lenses. Yes, image quality is comparable to optic stabilization since it is ...


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