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15

Your lens dates back to a time when some lenses were still completely manual, and the aperture had to be manually closed for stop down metering. Your zoom lens has a more modern feature that allowed for wide open metering and then the lens would automatically stop down to the desired aperture just as the photo was taken. By the 1970’s most lenses had this ...


4

I would suggest trying your SX740 again, but use a far more conservative zoom setting. It should reduce your minimum focus distance to a workable level. The long telephoto setting is for making distant objects as large as possible in the camera, but you really only need to work with things that are close to you. The macro mode and wide angle [ie, not zoomed ...


4

My condolences for how your photos came out. It is always disappointing to get film back and find it in such poor condition. You appear to have a camera issue with film advance, potential light leaks, and possibly an issue with subpar handling by the developer/printer which resulted in a failure align negatives correctly. If you look at the top photo, on ...


4

It means "2nd generation", or "2nd version". Cf. Canon's use of "Mk II" on camera bodies.


3

Firstly, why do you want to open this file? Are you missing some photos/videos/data and suspect they are held within this file? Surely not. The .bin extension would indicate to me that this is a binary file – probably some kind of "catalogue" file, encoded in some proprietary way by Olympus, that the camera uses for organising files or storing quick-view ...


3

"Auto" is a descriptor that appears to have been overused because it sounded advanced and futuristic. Now that we are in the future, it refers to outdated technologies that don't seem very automatic. For instance, since the term auto-mobile has already been taken, we're stuck calling autonomous vehicles "self-driving cars". While it would be reasonable to ...


3

I'm interested in doing Street Photography... Which is the best option between the two lenses? Street photography is about location ("street"). People may use any lens they desire. What works best depends on the person. Between the two options you mention, I'd consider going with the 17/1.8 because I'd expect it to be reasonably versatile and 14-42/3.5-5....


3

I'm interested in doing Street Photography, so I'm looking for something portable and I wonder if there is any relevant difference in lightweight between the two lenses. This really is a matter of preference. On occasion, I go hiking with a Pentax 645N. Back in the day shooters used things like a Graflex. So, whether or not something is "portable" enough is ...


2

Either of these cameras would make a good choice. Choosing between them probably depends more on your specific shooting preferences. I have the X100F and have been using it for over a year in street photography and I love it, but as with any camera it's not perfect. The X100F is the latest in the X100 series so it has been refined a lot and it is so good ...


2

I agree with TheLuckless - point and shoot cameras like yours have Macro settings and can actually get quite close to things. As you zoom in, the minimum focus distance increases. You'll have to experiment but there's probably a balance between zoom and MFD where you'll get the shot that you want. The other option is to crop. That P&S has ~20MP - far ...


2

This looks like the film was exposed to light in an uncameralike manner. Either the camera is not light-tight anymore, or the film you used has been abused (unspooled and respooled anywhere outside a darkroom). Also, this is an automatic exposure camera with a selenium cell meter. Selenium meters are known to fail or become intermittent from old age (which ...


2

In part it will depend on the body on which you're intending to use it. I'd already read about the image stabilization question (Panasonic does it in the lens, Olympus in the body, so mixing can lead to no stabilization or the two systems "fighting" each other - though (on an Olympus) either or both could be switched off). Thanks to your question (and ...


2

I don't know anything about either lens. However, after searching The Google Machine, it seems many users have noted that the Panasonic is slightly softer in the corners. Otherwise, the differences are marginal. The price difference between used copies of the lenses is much narrower, so I'd consider looking for a lightly used copy of the Olympus lens.


2

You probably want the Olympus MMF-3 Four Thirds to Micro Four-Thirds adapter. This will give you full electronic communication with the four-thirds lens so you can meter and autofocus the lens, although AF performance can vary, depending on the lens and the adapter. There are several other options, (including the MMF-2, and MMF-1/Panasonic DMW-MA1, and ...


2

You need to know the mount of both the camera and lens to find an appropriate adapter, if one exists. You state that the camera has a micro-four-thirds mount. You state that the lens has a (not micro) four-thirds mount. FD is an old Canon mount. It is unlikely to be what you are looking for. OM is an old full frame (not four-thirds) Olympus mount, also ...


2

I am not sure what "automatic" mode you selected on the Olympus. However, based on your jpegs and metadata, we can report a few problems and then I may suggest solutions to fix them : Problems : The Olympus went for maximum shutter speed (1/2000) and a small aperture (f/8) at high ISO (1600). We could endlessly about why the camera achieved these ...


2

Do Olympus lenses and filters for TG-3 or TG-4 fit TG-5? Yes - the design of the lens housing is the same. All of the cameras use the same CLA-T01 converter to expand lens attachment possibilities. Just curious whether some used TG-4 and TG-3 accesories are a good deal or a waste of money. This is completely dependent on the accessory. As a general ...


2

The camera battery compartment is separate from the light-tight area of the camera. This being the case, you can remove dead batteries and replace without harming the film. You are advised to check the camera’s manual. When the battery dies or is near death, likely the camera stops functioning. Under these circumstances you will have little choice; you must ...


1

Is the -.- at the bottom supposed to be a lens aperture? In which case this would mean that there is no lens or the lens is not detected (bad contacts in the mount, or defective lens or lens not supported, or added with a mount converter). This could also be the reason for MF. There could be some setting to allow taking pictures despite this (legacy/full-...


1

Start with the usual suspects: Turn off the camera and remove the battery. Let the camera sit overnight. Replace with a fully charged battery, turn the camera on, and see if the problem still manifests itself. Remove the lens. Try a different lens. Try the same lens on a different body. Clean the lens contacts on the lens and on the camera body. Reset all ...


1

I recently had two mechanical film cameras serviced, which included shutter speed adjustments and full cleanings. The cost was ~$250 per camera. So, I don't think your price is completely unreasonable. That being said, the cost of this repair is way over what this camera seems to be going for used. It came out in 2008 - it's had a good life. You could ...


1

Even if there doesn't seem to be enough light in enough of a varied spectrum to get decent color, I often try to take a calibration shot to use as a 'Custom White Balance' frame. If you don't have a calibrated target, something like a styrofoam cup (or even the blank pages at the end of your flash's manual - which once upon a time were supposed to be neutral ...


1

Off camera flash is your best bet for getting a really nice final result because you can "turn off" the existing, ugly light and add your own, making it look however you want. Moving your flash away from the camera adds much more depth, detail and visual interest than keeping it on the hotshoe. Yes it's slower and more involved than shooting with available ...


1

As you've already identified, the problem is likely associated with low light levels. Monochromatic light exacerbates the issue because only 1/4 of the sensels are used for pure red or blue light, and 1/2 of the sensels for pure green light. Consider adding on-camera flash with a diffuser or bounce. Though many recommend against it, it is warranted in this ...


1

Scan the QR code for help :) j/k - that "QR code" is a pattern imprinted on the shutter curtains to help with weighted exposure. Irrespective of camera model, the problem described is often due to one of the following causes: Battery exhausted on an electronic-shutter camera (which the OM-40 is). Try replacing the battery; in some cases removing, resting, ...


1

Be aware that some sophisticated wide angle lenses (floating element primes, wide angle zooms) are extremely sensitive to flange distance mismatches, so be sure that any adapter you use is precise in that regard. A mismatch of fractions of a mm that would merely throw off infinity focus with a normal prime can wreck havoc on the corrections and thus the ...


1

I experienced this exact issue on my EM10-iii and it turned out to be mechanical in nature. In my case, I was trying to fire a Yongnuo YN560-III and a RadioPopper JRx, the first is a low-voltage flash the second is a low-voltage radio trigger. Both only have a single center pin. I couldn't get either the flash or the radio trigger to fire directly on the ...


1

I discovered today while experimenting with a recently purchased M. Zuiko Digital ED 60mm f2.8 Macro lens and Promaster MR1 focusing rail with OM-D E-M5 Mark II, that when I set the camera to High-Resolution mode, the smallest aperture I could get was f8.0. As soon as I switched away from High Res, I could get a smaller aperture (in my case, I wanted f11 for ...


1

As of January 2019, Olympus themselves now produce OEM flash gear with built-in radio triggering: FL-700WR speedlight FC-WR transmitter FR-WR receiver The system allows for TTL, HSS, 2nd curtain, and three groups. The receiver has a sync port for studio strobes as well as a hotshoe for speedlights, and adds a recycle beep. See: https://www.olympus-...


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