New answers tagged

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This from the mir.com website, I'm not sure if it's relevant but worth mentioning because of the higher resolution sensor in the a7r III: A filter must always be in position at the rear of the lens,when the lens is mounted on the camera and ready to be used. Five filters, neutral density, UV, Yellow, Orange and Red, are supplied with the lens. These filters ...


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Steve, How did you downgrade your firmware? I have the same issue with my D600 i sent it in for the free recall and they upated the firmware now my sigma 120-400 wont auto focus. Where can i find the downgrade instructions?


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After some time I managed to find a solution, though, I do not know exactly why it works. The microscope I am using comes with small 2Mpx camera with it, and, lens that are to be attached to the camera and fitted onto the microscope. The radial blur disappeared after I took the fixed lens from the microscope camera, and fitted it onto my DSLR, using custom ...


2

When you use the flash in a non-Auto mode (Aperture or Speed priority) the camera assumes the flash is used for fill-in and computes the exposure for a flash-less photo. So if you subject is dark this will crank up the exposure and then you'll have a big flash added. So when you use the flash, either go full-manual, or use the "Program" mode of your camera.


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I have D7200, I am shooting with Sigma 18-35mm f/1.8 DC HSM Art. The pictures which are coming from this lens are superb. Super sharp even wide open, it really took me by surprise how good it is. At 35mm you have equivalent of 50mm FF. It is a bit heavy lens, around 810 g. A bit more expensive, but the build/image quality is totaly worth it. Another one ...


2

It looks like you just broke an UV filter. The metal rim may have warped a bit and this is why your lens cap is stuck. You can try to pry it out but you can also replace it. But you may want to inspect the rest of the lens. The (real) front lens may have scratches caused by the glass shards from the filter (*), and the filter thread may be damaged. You can ...


1

It looks like the actual lens elements are ok, but the filter on the front was damaged. It also looks like the threading for the filters might have been damaged on the lens as well. These are the actual elements in that lens. The main front element is recessed. That being said, any hit hard enough to damage a lens in that manner could have damaged the ...


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The Nikon D70 has a composite video out port. It appears that this is only for displaying what would be on the camera's display, and since the D70 doesn't do LiveView, you aren't going to get "videos" per se, although you could get NTSC/PAL "video" of photos playing back.


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The infinity stop on most lenses is adjustable... often by removing a couple screws and repositioning the fixed distance scale for MF lenses. IDK the specifics for that lens, it would require some research or take it to a skilled repair person.


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Adapters of this kind being too long is an exception - instead, they often are intentionally a bit short to allow dealing with lenses with slightly miscalibrated infinity stops. If you think a shorter adapter will help, get a couple of cheap adapters, one of them is likely to be short ... or a "universal" adapter (like https://www.amazon.de/Universal-...


2

You said "all night", which sounds like it was too dark for your settings. Ways to get a faster shutter speed are: Go into a more bright area with enough light, where automation can do better. Photography is tough without enough light. One way to provide more light is to use flash. Open the aperture and/or increase the ISO so that a faster shutter can ...


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Don't get too obsessed with DOF or Bokeh. That 50mm f1.8 is an awesome lens and there is not much more to want in the 50mm focal length. No need to go for the more expensive f1.4 unless you're a professional or really into low light situations. I would drastically change the way you're looking for a new lens. You like that 16-80mm lens and you want a ...


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According to the Nikon instructions, after putting the firmware folder (created when you installed the downloaded dmg file) onto the memory card and turned the camera on- Select Firmware version in the Set up menu and follow the on-screen instructions to complete the firmware update. You don't include this step in your description...


2

I would generally strongly recommend an older high end body over a new entry level body. New bodies do have better sensors, but because of their lower quality autofocus modules that do not have the possibility of fine tuning, they usually give much lower quality pictures. If you only do landscape or astro photography, and don't mind to focus manually or in ...


3

What kind of shots do you wish to take that your current lens does not allow? What kind of lens is needed to produce those shots? Until you can answer both of those questions, you don't need to buy anything. For more along these lines, please see: When should I upgrade my camera body? Does the camera matter? The questions and answers hold equally true ...


3

I currently own... the Nikon 16-80 mm f/2.8-4E ED VR. I've found it mostly suits my needs... Buying lenses you don't need is an insidious affliction that is best avoided before it begins. So I've started testing out the Nikon 50 mm f/1.8G and although I'm a fan of the results it produces, I'm not sure if I'm just convincing myself they're actually better....


2

Generally, obsession with decreased DoF comes from people who are looking to justify purchasing gear which can provide decreased DoF. (See What is GAS and how can I avoid it? for a deeply-related topic.) If you don't have a specific need that you know additional gear will help with, do not buy additional gear. You say "I'm having a hard time figuring out ...


4

You're asking about the camera settings which I can't help you with but the image may be ok once it's corrected with photoshop. All digital images need to be corrected. The camera settings definitely define the image but the digital processing defines the digital version. Quality digital processing makes a poorly taken photo look a million times better than ...


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Part of the answer is that you picture is overexposed. The histogram (the light diagram in the background of the curves) shows that there are no truly dark areas (histogram doesn't go to the left border) while parts of the images are blown out (histogram has a line along the right edge). Just fixing this (here with the Curves tool in Gimp, but PS has an ...


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The lens will focus just as well in low light as it does in normal lighting. However, the camera’s autofocus system won’t work as well (if it works at all) if there’s not enough light. As well, if you’re using an auto exposure mode, the camera will likely pick a large aperture, so the lens won’t be as sharp as it might be at, say, f/8. Or, if you pick a ...


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In low-light conditions you are struggling for any photon useful... The apperture wide open lets all possible light to pass, but the depth-of-field is shallower. Since kit lenses usually change their speed while "zooming", set the lens to the lowest focal distance. Then crop but you will reduce the rsolution of the result. Slower shutter speed allows you to ...


3

Find some way to stabilize the camera, if no tripod place it on top of something like a table or your backpack. Set iso to 100 and set a 2s timer, press the shutter and release the camera. Wait for a couple of seconds of exposure and hope your subject is not moved by wind or similar. An example of this technique, camera (panasonic lx3) was leaning against ...


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The lens will mount and operate on a D90 body. However, the D90 camera will not meter with AI and AI-S lenses, so you will have to estimate your exposure using rules of thumb such as Sunny 16, or use an external light meter to determine your exposure. See also: Nikon Lens Compatibility Chart (nikonians.org) Do Nikon manual lenses work with D90? (dvxuser....


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Manual focus will always work, it does not depend on the camera body. I suppose that you wanted to ask if the auto-focus will work... This Amazon description says that it should work fine.


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This would only at all work with a manually controllable E mount lens (IIRC none of Sony's own lenses are) that is to be used as a macro only lens. You would have to literally sink the lens inch deep into the mirrorbox of a Nikon DSLR to be able to focus it to infinity. If you do not want to sell the lens ... get a simple E mount body (some of the APS-C ...


1

Since you've checked for any microswitch jamming (assume you've also cleaned the hotshoe) and done settings/mode resets on the camera, I think it's probably a hardware issue. Googling around, it looks like there is a construction inside Nikon pop-up flashes that can get misaligned/broken so that either the pop-up won't pop up or won't fire when it's popped ...


2

To me it seems dust on the sensor. Have you tried using the cleaning routine as described in the manual (pp.180)?


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Open the digicam's Setup menu and select Wi-Fi. Select Network Connection after which select Enable. Select Network Settings to display the screen shown on the proper. Select a connection option. Launch the Nikon Wireless Mobile Utility app for your tool.


1

I was trying to figure out how to use what i call the "Scroll Wheels" on my D7200 because i don't like wearing out buttons trying to scroll through 300+ photos. This was extremely helpful, f5 Custom Command Dials, then Menu/Playback set to ON worked for me, Thanks!


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