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1

This file contain orbits of GPS satellites (simplified). This information is required to calculate the satellites position and with precise time received from satellites to calculate your geographic coordinates. And it is indeed limited to one week data. If you do not update this file you need to switch on you camera and stay in open space with good ...


1

In a nutshell1 AGPS (Assisted/Augmented GPS) is a method to help a GPS device determine the position of the GPS satellites by supplying pre-computed data. The data itself changes in time due to the fact that the satellites themselves change in position over time in a manner that can't be expressed by a simple formula directly implemented by the GPS device ...


0

Hot pixels are normal for long exposures. Additionally, the sensor and electronics get warm and this increases the noise level. The noise level is random, but the hot pixels are not and can be fixed in-camera Your camera has a feature called Long Exposure Noise Reduction. If you turn it on, the camera will take two exposures. The first will be a normal ...


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i did the same. I have a DSLR NIKON D3200 and a microscope camera 3mp whit a small lens. I attached the microscope camera lens in my NIKON D3200 but the quality of the photography is very bad, without the detail expected for a big sensor and 24mp of the NIKON camera. It happened because the microscope camera lens reduce the light and fit it to the size of ...


0

It could be lens lost calibration. Try this and tell us. Use f5.6 or greater number like f8 etc... Take a photo of a white text with black background, this will show you ghosting effect in the edges of the letter. If this happens, one of the components of your lenses is out of the center. This can happen due to a hit, etc... Let us know. Regards


1

There is a very nice tool to remove JPEG artifacts and get DNG file out of pixels. Sure, it can't reconstruct HDR and other details, but still it may be helpful. The application uses machine learning (convolutional neural networks) to process input image (e.g. remove compression artifacts and slightly remove noise) and don't make it blurry as using just ...


2

I can't help you with disassembling that lens but since that lens will focus beyond infinity, I would either buy, or print yourself, a thin M42 to Nikon F adapter. You can buy one like this for under $5.00


15

You appear to be using your lens (100-400/5-6.3) with the aperture wide open. I would expect the glow in your photos to be significantly reduced or absent stopped down to about F8. Many lenses "glow" when used wide open, especially in bright light with high contrast. It is likely associated with spherical aberration and is typically reduced or completely ...


1

All lenses are debased by aberrations, two of which deal with color. The lens maker endeavors to mitigate by crafting the lens using multiple lens elements. Most commonly, chromatic aberration displays images with a rainbow colored edge effect. This is caused by the fact that each color has a slightly different focal length. The violet image falls closer to ...


2

You've got a dirty lens. First, alcohol. IPA, ethanol. Use that with a microfibre cloth. That should dissolve the oils, but you want the cloth to pull it off of the glass and into the cloth. Don't reuse sections of the cloth. Then, a little Deionized water and soap- a tiny tiny tiny smidgen. Again, just enough to be a surfactant. Wipe the lense elements ...


11

The fact you're seeing this with two very different bodies suggests to me it's in the lens. Long zooms tend to have a bunch of elements (anywhere from a dozen to twenty, in my experience). No lens coating is perfect, and no lens surface is perfect. Every time light passes through an air-glass or glass-glass interface at an element surface, there's a small ...


0

Gel type super glue is what you need to use..


1

I just did the same, using my SB700 (and D850)with the Godox X pro N and the X 1 receivers. It worked great practicing in the house, either on Manual or TTL (on the flashes), but when I tried to set up a quick shot today, the flashes won't flash when on remote mode. I did not remember changing anything after intially finding that the set up was very simple ...


0

I find 'mikeno62' has a lot of useful videos on lens repair on Youtube. In the following video he does a repair on loose aperture blades of the AF-s VR Micro-Nikkor 105mm 1:2.8 G ED: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zBicBLjx7A It seems to be an extremely complicated repair, and you probably will not be able to find replacement parts easilly.


2

The biggest problem with repairing Nikon lenses yourself is that Nikon no longer sells replacement parts to anyone outsides Nikon's authorized service network, including third party repair shops. To make matters worse, as of March 31, 2020, Nikon is not renewing agreements with any current Nikon authorized outside repair shops that are not owned by Nikon. ...


1

It's simple to do in camera: Select picture. Press OK, this brings up the retouch menu. Press OK to trim. Adjust size with +/- buttons and maneuver into position using the multi selector button (around the OK button). Then press OK again. You're done Alternatively - pages 330/331 D3200 for Dummies.


0

Basic troubleshooting generally starts with what has changed. Your camera has changed, which would point to a camera functionality problem. That said, if it has been some time since you developed film, your developing process or the chemicals themselves could have changed. A control via either new chemicals or developing against a known-to-work camera ...


3

Assuming this was B&W or color negative film, the most likely cause of completely clear film (no edge markings, no exposed leader for 35 mm) is mixing up the graduates and pouring the fixer before the developer. It's an easy mistake to make, even (especially) after processing hundreds or thousands of tanks previously. All it takes is an interruption or ...


7

Are the frame numbers visible? If they are, processing chemicals and times are fine, but the film was not exposed. If the frame numbers are not visible, whether or not the film was exposed, the processing is at fault - exhausted chemicals or maybe incorrect sequence.


0

It sounds like the camera is set to focus on a half press of the shutter release. You can override this by setting the Fn or AE-L/AF-L buttons as "AF-ON". In this case, according to page 253 and 256 of the manual available here : "Pressing the [Fn or AE-L/AF-L] button initiates autofocus.The shutter-release button can not be used to focus." This may ...


1

A little bit late but I will try to help with my experience. I owned the 55-300mm, sold it and bought AF-P NIKKOR 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6E ED VR. The problem with this kind of lenses is the sharpness from 200mm to 300mm and I was very disappointed with 55-300. Beside, the autofocus is very slow. After watching some tests of the AF-P 70-300 (FX version!), MTF, .....


1

I would be using a video frame rate of 24fps and a SS of 1/45; or 30fps at 1/60. The slower SS is meant to prevent recording flickering/banding of the monitor (60hz oscillation). And the SS being 2x the frame rate (180 degree shutter) is meant to record movement more naturally. If you were recording in one of the UHD video modes that might be why the SS was ...


1

One problem is that the room you are in is pretty small. One movement of 30 cm is, according to your description, 1/3 of the space, so if you can move further away from the camera that will be an improvement. Let's think that you have defined your shutter speed, I assume it would be 1/60 s, and the TV present no flickering problem. The ISO you found to be ...


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