27

I suspect you are trying to treat photography the way you would approach computer programming (your stock overflow profile indicates that you are a fairly advanced contributor on that site). I myself started out my DSLR journey with the Canon 550D + 18-55mm kit lens combo (rough equivalents of their Nikon counterparts that you possess). The lens is quite ...


18

Apparently you have the Highlight Alert feature on. This allows you to preview areas of your picture that are overexposed (receiving too much light) and decide if this is your intention or not. This is a very handy feature, but if you prefer to turn it off you can follow this tutorial (source): Press the Menu button, then use the Multi-selector to ...


16

Page 44 in your manual! The part you're probably looking for is (quoted from the manual): Rotate the live view switch. The mirror will be raised and the view through the lens will be displayed in the camera monitor. The subject will no longer be visible in the viewfinder. The live view switch is located next to your mode dial and is ...


11

This is called "Bulb Mode". On most DSLRs (including the D5100), you would change to shutter priority or manual mode and slide the shutter speed larger until it reads "Bulb" or something of the sort.


11

The 99% likely best answer is, of course, to send it to a competent camera repairer. Odds are 'It's broken'. However, just in case, and very very unlikely, try the following. These have almost no chance of being successful, but in a few cases may work: Remove & replace lens. Is mirror stuck up? If so, DO NOT TRY to move it. Take to repairer. If ...


11

I live in Sweden and I own a Canon EOS 450D. So far I've never had any problems with it in temperatures down to -20 °C (apart from a somewhat reduced battery life). I wouldn't really worry about your camera not working at sub zero. Every swede I know uses his/her camera in the winter (as well as their cell phones and other electric toys) and to the best of ...


10

For dark places you can turn off autofocus and use manual focusing. That works for focusing using the ring on the lens. To get very precise you do it after pressing the LV button. This shows the image on screen bigger. To get manual focus, press the [i] button and change AF-S (or AF-C) to MF. The lens for shooting only the moon is too short but if you want ...


10

HDR from a single RAW images does not add any dynamic-range than is captured. If the scene exceeds the dynamic-range of your camera, then no matter what you do the RAW will contained clipped channels on one or even both ends. Even if you have the best camera and use it at its optimal ISO setting, the most you get today is just above 14 stops of DR. Taking a ...


10

On a DSLR, when you use the viewfinder, the mirror is lowered, and a secondary mirror reflects some of the light to phase-based AF and exposure sensors at the bottom of the camera. These are accurate and fast. When you use live view, the AF is contrast-based AF (the camera lens hunts until it find a position that maximizes contrast). This is slow (in your ...


9

Your lens is not parfocal. If you had a parfocal lens, you would know it. Mainly because the prices of true parfocal zoom lenses ($10K and up) mean only those who really need them and know why they need them buy them. A parfocal lens is a zoom lens that maintains the same focus distance as it is zoomed in and out. Most lenses used by anyone other than ...


8

Without seeing an example image, it's hard to tell which of the following is the problem. Your lens is on manual focus. Note that having the camera's exposure dial on the green "Auto" is not the same thing as auto-focus. Auto-focus is usually controlled on the side of the lens itself with an "A/M" switch. The subject is moving too fast for your shutter ...


8

In your D5100, "Live View" mode is activated by trigerring the 'Lv' switch next to the Mode selection dial (right under the 'Info' button). However, this information is covered in the manual of your camera. There you have it in page 99, section 'Live View'. If you are new to the camera, you should definitely go through it, it'll help you a lot.


7

One thing to keep in mind is that photography, as many other activities, depends much more on how much you like it and and to keep improving than on equipment or technique. The quality of a photo is much more related to what (and when) something is being registered than how it is being recorded. It's the photographer way of seeing the world that counts. ...


7

The good news is that cameras rarely get damaged by cold, even considerably below their operating limit which is 0C for nearly all DSLRs except some from Pentax. The bad news is that they stop working quickly. How quickly depends on the ambient temperature and particular camera. What fails first is the batter which looses it ability to supply current while ...


7

Short Answer: Focus mode is how the camera focus while the AF-area is where the camera focus. Focus modes AF-S/One Shot AF - Find focus only once while the release button is half-pressed AF-C/AI Servo AF - Find focus until the release button is fully pressed or released AF-A/AI Focus AF - Let the camera decide if it should use AF-S or AF-C MF - The ...


7

It's because on a (Nikon) DSLR, live view is part of the video stream with rolling shutter. This stream is usually not in a raw format and is typically reduced resolution. Some Nikon's have a "silent live view photography" menu option that allows recording a video frame w/o switching into still mode (mirror/shutter fixed). In order to switch back to full ...


6

The focus racking problem means that you're shooting in conditions that the camera is having trouble with. The subject may have low contrast, be too dim, other objects may be in the way, or the selected focus mode may be incorrect for the subject. Some solutions: If the area is too dim, causing the focus trouble, turn on some lights, use the on-camera focus-...


6

Don't worry that the D5100 isn't listed. The picture controls can be downloaded for use by the software (View NX2) or to be uploaded onto the camera. You're only interested in making them available for View NX2, so don't need to worry about the camera model. If you haven't selected another Picture Control setting in your D5100 menu, it will have defaulted ...


6

No, there is nothing you can do. Nikon's AF-P lenses do not work with the D5100. At the time of release of the first AF-P lenses (the 18–55mm, both with and without VR), the only cameras that supported AF-P lenses were D5300 and D5500, and a firmware update was made available to the D3300 so it would support AF-P lenses as well. See this article at ...


6

Because in the Nikon D3x00 and D5x00 series, as well as many previous entry level Nikon DSLRS and pretty much all Nikon 35mm film SLRs, the same mechanical motion actuates the mirror assembly and the aperture linkage. Once the mirror is up, the aperture can not be changed from the body. This worked fine when the mirror was always down until just before a ...


5

The number of images required to produce an HDR result without clipped highlights or shadows depends entirely on the scene being photographed, not on the dynamic range of your output device. RAW images may contain a greater range than you can display on your monitor, but that doesn't really matter as you will compress the dynamic range anyway as part of the ...


5

See this dpreview thread. Consensus seems to be that for the Nikon D5100 class 6 is fine for single shots, but you really need class 10 if you want to do burst shots (Continuous Mode). A class 10 will also allow faster transfers to your PC. I wouldn't expect switching to class 10 to improve your battery life. Your card has very little battery consumption ...


5

When your camera adjusts your settings (aperture, shutter speed, and/or ISO) to get a certain exposure value it is basing those decisions on the tone of the image (different from color). It could be any color, but the tone should average out to be 18% grey (thus the use of grey cards that are 18% grey). So if you had a bright white vs a dark white you ...


5

This is called "shallow depth of field", there are 3 factor (that you control) that affect depth of field: Distance to subject - as you get closer less will be in focus, also, you will get more background blur if the background is far away Focal length - longer focal length = less in focus Aperture - this is the easiest to use because it's a setting you ...


5

The mirror is interposed between the viewfinder and the sensor. The shutter is interposed between the mirror and the sensor. The mirror throws the image into the viewfinder, bypassing the sensor, so if you have a clear viewfinder image but live view (or an actual photo) shows a dark band, this suggests the problem is a sticky shutter. You will need to have ...


5

From the D5100's manual (page 81), the 600+ images is by the CIPA standard, and does not include live view — just 4 seconds of review for each image. It's not surprising at all that real-life usage is much less, particularly if you are using live view constantly. Sadly, I think your options are: Change your habits, or Pick up some spare batteries.


5

Note in your examples that images at row 4, columns 5, 6 & 7 and row 7, columns 7, 8, 9 &10 have a faint "white" bar at the top of the image. Increasing the brightness and or gamma on the sample supplied shows what appears to be a reddish line source. Doing the same on individual images may give you some visual clues as to what happened. The ...


4

I ask because I have found that I can take my remote and fire off 3 shots as quickly as possible, but in windy conditions this still produces ghost when I merge them Bursting shots in continuous mode may not be the answer; or at least, it may not solve your problem. In windy conditions the ghost you see is the difference in movement between the first ...


4

Check your manual for the Sports or Burst mode - which should let you fire off (from what I can find for that model) at 4 fps (so 4 shots as fast as it can). If using a remote - you should be able to hold down the button on the remote and hear the camera fire in rapid succession. Edit: Ah - yes, only so much can be done about wind.


4

The sync speed itself doesn't change, as that is defined by how quickly the shutter curtains move, but what is happening is the trigger is adding a delay, which throws off the timing. What ought to happen at 1/200s is that the first curtain reaches the top, the flash fires, then the second curtain starts closing immediately from the bottom. However due to ...


Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible