18

You can run the camera directly off AC power with two pieces of gear. You need a camera-specific "dongle" that basically fakes being the battery in the battery compartment. This then connects to the other part you need, which is the AC-to-DC adapter. For the D3100, you need the Nikon EP-5A power supply connector and the Nikon EH-5b AC adapter. According ...


9

Has anyone had this problem with the Albinar lens? There are two versions of the Albinar 500mm f8. One is a fixed aperture mirror lens and one is a variable aperture "Preset" lens. Which version do you have? They are both actually made by Samyang and also sold under many other names. (Opteka, Bower, Kalimar, Phoenix, Rokinon, Quantaray, Vivitar, Bell &...


8

Using the dpReview lens widget it appears the AF-S DX Nikkor 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR is sharpest at f/8 for most focal lengths. There are some points in the zoom range that center sharpness is better at f/5.6 but usually at a much greater expense to edge sharpness. At DxO Mark, the results for the AF-S DX Nikkor 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR are similar to those at ...


8

Unfortunately not, as this lens does not have a built-in AF motor, and neither do the D3X00 or D5X00 camera families from Nikon. Your camera will only have autofocus with Nikon lenses marked AF-S, or compatible lenses from other makers that include built-in focusing motors.


8

Unfortunately, that photo is much too far gone for any software to be able to clean it up. One of the big advantages of digital over film is the ability to instantly review photos - get in the habit of using it.


7

If the issues with your current setup are low constrast and looking washed out, then a new lens isn't going to help. A polarizer will help in some cases when there is some blue sky in the picture or a rainbow, but otherwise it won't make much difference either. What will matter is post processing. Clouds are all quite bright, even the "dark" ones. The ...


6

You have almost certainly set a monochrome "picture control". This is probably showing as an "MC" towards the lower-right of the LCD - if it is, adjust this back to SD ("standard"). (That's for a camera running in English; if you're in a different language, the abbreviations may be different, but the principle remains the same).


6

The primary problem here is simply one of exposure. The camera's metering system is not really smart — it doesn't know the difference between a white blanket that's dimly lit and a gray blanket that's brightly lit. It just assumes that everything is somewhere in the middle. Your scene contains a lot of white. This fools the camera's assumption about the ...


5

As you have watched the shutter getting stuck, it seems fair to assume this is indeed a stuck shutter. Take it to a Nikon authorised repair shop: not something you want to tackle yourself really.


5

What you are seeing is called motion blur. Simply stated, it is blur caused by motion during exposure. Horses obviously move and their legs will show even more motion. The solution to this is to use a faster shutter-speed. You can control the shutter-speed in Shutter-Priority mode or in Manual mode. For the former you will get a metered exposure which will ...


4

There are a few things I would try first: If you normally shoot at low ISO, the camera is probably using more noise reduction than it was before. See if there is an option to turn off in-camera NR at lower ISO settings. Normally when updated firmware is installed, all of the camera settings reset to the default values. You may have had in-camera sharpening ...


4

If you are concerned about tampering, you really need the file to be signed cryptographically; Nikon doesn't do that. If your concern is simply that a download might be corrupt (or that your flash card might have an error that corrupts the file), don't worry. The firmware has an internal checksum checked by the camera's firmware updater. (Details for some ...


4

When the light gets dim enough there comes a time when you have to give up shooting sequences of fast moving objects coming towards you and instead pre-focus on a spot and wait for the subject to hit the mark. Cross ties work pretty good for locking focus on a point the train is about to be. You also gain the advantage of getting the one shot when the train ...


4

Because the 500mm F/8 mirror lens from Samyang/ Rokinon/ Bower/ Walimex/ Falcon/ Albinar/ Opteka/ Quantaray/ Bell & Howell/ whatever else they're calling it this week is a fixed aperture lens, as are most mirror lenses with a secondary mirror in the middle of the objective. In other words your lens has no adjustable aperture. Just as a prime lens can't ...


4

Yes, it will fit, but AF won't work (all D lenses rely on an AF motor in the camera body and the D3100 doesn't have one), so if you buy it, you'll only able to use it as a manual focus lens.


4

The main requirements for a passport photo, in terms of photographic qualities, are that your face be evenly lit (no shadows) and that your whole face be in focus. For even lighting, assuming you don't have studio lights, taking the photo outside, in the shadow of a building, in the daytime works well, as does taking it in a room with bare white walls and ...


4

If the camera was modified to pass mostly IR light, then this is normal. You need to convert the images to monochrome. Take a picture of foliage outside. Then desaturate completely. If the foliage is very white giving the image a surreal look, then the filter is working properly. There are also IR camera modifications that leave more visible light, if you ...


3

Please see the charts here. The sharpest aperture depends on the focal length. As you can see, at 18mm, the center is barely sharper at f/5.6. At 35mm and longer, it is sharper at f/8. The differences in jpegs posted to the web or in prints at 8x10" or smaller is unlikely to be perceptible. The advice above, if in doubt, use f/8, is sound. I would add a ...


3

D3100 cannot support the feature that you want to implement, but the new Nikon D3200 has change the image of the D3xxx series. with the help of WU-1a Wireless Mobile Adapter, you can connect it to the DSLR, to automatically send your images to your Smart phone and even use your smartphone to remotely capture images from D3200 and D5200. I'm not sure if it ...


3

i used Digicam Control on my Nikon D3200 and it works ! by the way, it works for Nikon D3100 too. You can see supported camera for Digicam Control here


3

If the camera is still under warranty, your best bet is to send it in regardless of if the repair itself is covered or not, since fixing it yourself is likely to void the warranty. It sounds like the latch is probably stuck or perhaps the button simply isn't actuating it. They'll probably have to take the body apart to access the mechanism from behind.


3

Nikkor 55-200 has minimum focus distance 1.1 meter (found here). So if object is really close, it won't focus. And if your Nikkor 70-300 is this one: Nikkor AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 D ED (do you?), it won't focus at all on D3100. That lens doesn't have internal AF motor and D3100 also doesn't have focusing motor. With your D3100 you need lenses which have ...


3

Not just in snow, but in general, in cold, battery runs out much faster. If it is not snowing, you are okay. However, your kit lens is not water sealed, so you must protect it from snow similarly to protecting from rain. I do not think that would be necessary. However, check the specs of your battery. (Minimum operational temperature, minimum storage ...


3

In the User Manual, under AF-Assist, it says: If Off is selected, the AF-assist illuminator will not light to assist the focus operation. The camera may not be able to focus using autofocus when lighting is poor. Can this be the reason? Also, see this thread on dpreview.com. Clearly, you cannot release shutter without focus unless being in Manual ...


3

From the symptoms you describe a virus is highly unlikely. Physical damage is a high possibility. When placed the card in the wallet, if you then placed the wallet in your back pocket and sat down this could have put significant stress on the card resulting in damage. If this is the case card is probably beyond economical recovery. If there is any ...


3

Maybe a stupid question, but are you in manual mode? Have you tried resetting all settings to their original value? This is how you do it (From the Nikon website): Resetting the D3100 The D3200 and D3100 do not have a 2 button reset option. To perform a reset you need to manually choose the reset option in the Shooting Menu and the Setup menu. To do this ...


3

On a full-frame (FX) Nikon camera, you can turn the Auto DX crop setting to Off and this will keep the camera from cropping the image. It's not a pseudo-crop, btw, it's actually cropping--that is, all the pixels on the FX sensor that are outside the area of a DX sensor are ignored. But. What you'll get is severe vignetting. The reason the DX auto crop ...


3

My assumption is that your situation is explained if you are using camera Auto mode. Your desire for low ISO will need to turn Auto ISO off with flash. However, if you are in camera Auto mode, you cannot turn Auto ISO off, so you have to get out of Auto mode, because, well, because Auto is automatic... auto ISO, auto White Balance, auto everything in Auto ...


3

Assuming you wanted a crisp picture of the flower, there are two basic problems: Out of focus. That really should be obvious. Very grainy. If this is from film, then you are blowing up a tiny area of the picture much bigger than the film resolution can support. Don't do that. You can't infinitely enlarge pictures without this kind of artifact. If this ...


3

In addition to the problems Kat notes (incompatible firmware or poor electronic contact), it's possible the lens has been damaged. Many lenses have ribbons that connect moving components. Lenses with very wide zoom ranges have components that move a great deal. Internal connections can be damaged or come loose even with only ordinary use. It would be ...


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