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Just tried 2 different Sigma 150-500mm Lenses on 2 different Nikon D5600 bodies, There was no autofocus on any combination, only an error. Looks like we'll have to go to the Sigma 100-600, which does work, but sadly it's too expensive for me at the moment.


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The dust is most likely “on the sensor.” Technically, the dust is most likely on an optical filters in front of the the sensor...typically a band pass filter that blocks ultra violet and infrared red frequencies. An ND filter is probably the lowest cost work around other than disassembly yourself. Dust in the lens will usually not be visible because the ...


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According to the Nikon Camera and Lens Compatibility Chart at Nikonians.org, no, you will not be able to use Program or Shutter-priority modes on your N90s with AI, AI-S, or E-series lenses. Quoting a section from the chart: Nikon Film SLR ... AI,AI-S,E N90s/F90x ... MF1,2 Notes MF Manual Focus 1 Only in A (Aperture Priority) or M (Manual) modes. ...


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First, fungus that grows on glass grows very slowly, and likely will not bother you or other lenses, directly. However,the smear might also be condensation from plastic outgassing plasticizer. Evaporating plasticizer from car parts can leave a similar smear on the windows. In any event, you can try to clean the outer surfaces of the lens... but if the mess ...


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Your problem as I understand is to get better shots given low light. For indoor subjects and variable movement and distance, you need multiple lenses, so you won't solve the general problem with one lens upgrade. You have one lens with F1.4, and 2 in the F3 range. For purpose of comparison, you can get one stop improvement for maybe a couple hundred bucks (...


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Maybe a more practical way to determine the T-Stop of a lens?: Arrange a uniformly lit white surface big enough to cover the FOV of a lens. Use your camera with fixed shutter speed (M-Mode), ISO, WB etcerera to make an exposure of the surface without a lens. Put the lens on the same camera with the same settings, and make a second exposure of the surface. ...


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Check out zoom lens on wikipedia: Zoom lens Emphasis on figure which mentions how focal length changes by using a setup of 4 lens: About the figure, Wikipedia says "A simple zoom lens system. The three lenses of the afocal system are L1, L2, L3 (from left). L1 and L2 can move to the left and right, changing the overall focal length of the system (see ...


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The upper lens will only affect what you see in the waist level viewfinder. The lower lens is the one that projects an image onto the film. Both of the photos in the question are focused at a point well above the top lens. As a consequence the details of the lower lens are blurry enough that you can't tell much of anything about it. This might be due to ...


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I recommend first calculating the active area of the sensor using the active pixels and pixel pitch. This is because CMOS sensor size format types are categories, not exact values. Did I make a correct assumption regarding finding the sensor dimensions using similar triangles? I think I did because I tried the same method on the Sony IMX253 with known ...


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I am assuming that if I use a shutter of a smaller diameter than the lens, the properties of the lens will change (for example, it will become less fast), because of the smaller aperture ring behind it? That is not necessarily the case. The physical size of the aperture is (almost?) never the same size as the objective lens element; because its physical ...


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A hat is the stylish photographer’s traditional front of lens shutter (and lens shade) though a press fit lens cap with a handhold in the center provides better control. Of course low sensitivity film/sensor and narrow apertures are needed when photographing in bright light due to the slow shutter speed. Packard shutters are a pneumatic alternative that can ...


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Your shutter only needs to be big enough to cover the sensor, not the front element of the lens. There are many lenses out there that have much larger front elements, but the image circle by the time it passes through the lens mount is a fraction of the size of the mount, typically a bit larger than the sensor, to reduce vignetting. That said, medium and ...


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Lumixs1DW Yes, I had the same question, I mean how stupid, isn't infinity just infinity, the farthest distance into the future that you can possibly focus on, apparently not. So, Why are you even allowed to wind 2mm beyond the infinity symbol? The logical answer is that if you can wind the lens beyond the infinity symbol, there has to be a reason why. So, ...


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