30

So I first shoot with ISO 1600 and shutter speed set to 1/125 second and then I shoot with ISO 3200 and shutter speed set to 1/250 second. The amount of light should be identical and indeed both shots look properly exposed and exposed the same way. The amount of light is not identical. You let twice as much light into the camera at 1/125 second than at 1/...


17

Being a man of science, I did some scholar-googling and came across some articles. Too long, didn't read: None of the scientific articles I found give a clear definition of "high ISO". However, they all link high ISO with higher noise levels. Therefore, I would say that high ISO is completely dependent on subjective criteria and the camera in question. My ...


15

You misunderstand how exposure compensation works. Exposure compensation is not an actual physical thing the camera uses to control light - there are only 3 real things that control the amount of light: Aperture, Shutter speed and ISO. Exposure compensation is a way to tell the camera in one of the auto/semi-auto modes you want to override the light meter ...


13

If the result you are looking for is a photograph, the short answer is no. The same equipment won't give better results with video than it can with stills. I think the apparent difference is due to exactly one thing: resolution. Try taking one of your still frames, resampling down so it's 1080 pixels tall, and then comparing. There isn't any inherent low-...


11

The short answer: It's darker then you think it is. Here's a depiction of various brightnesses and an an exposure value which nominally will give correct exposure at that brightness. Note that these are overlaid — the area of the whole circle is what matters, not the separated rings. This seems shocking, because our eyes are so good at adjusting, but ...


10

Assuming all other exposure settings with and without flash are equal, then using flash means you are adding light to the scene. Increased light in the scene means increased light down the lens, which means more light at the sensor. That means you have a higher signal to noise ratio at the sensor, which generally means less noise. Signal to Noise ratio, or ...


10

Your idea is on the right basic track — you could meter at the limit of your camera, and then change to what the camera thinks is underexposure. ISO 3200 is actually only one stop faster than 1600 (each doubling is one stop). You say "points", and it may be that your lens has click points at half stop, in which case yes, two clicks would be right. (If you're ...


10

For some sort of photography high ISO is very important. At some point the picture quality does not matter as much as having at least taken a photo, even if it is very noisy. News journalists or street photographers, who want to capture the moment do not have the time to light up the scene. Therefore they accept the noise to get the shot. High ISO is also ...


9

Exposure compensation is just another means of changing either shutter or aperture. I is not some fourth component of exposure, there are still only three: ISO, Shutter Speed, Aperture. If you have manually selected an aperture, changing EC will reduce shutter speed. If you have manually selected a shutter speed, changing EV will increase the size of the ...


8

I believe it may be a flaw in your testing. Raising ISO should not be getting you a higher signal to noise ratio (or usable dynamic range). You are raising the noise floor, without any corresponding increase in dynamic range at the bright end. Thus you should be left with overall lower dynamic range. It would not be possible to go the other way. Is it ...


8

ASA Film Speed provides a simple enough answer for this. ISO 400 was considered standard high sensitivity film with anything above that being very high sensitivity film. It would be easy to argue that anything above 400 ISO is High ISO. The real question is whether or not to include 400 in that or not. I would argue 400 should not be included as high ISO as ...


7

Darktable has a great profile-based noise removal tool. You may give it a try if your sensor is already supported. If not, you can submit an own profile. See http://www.darktable.org/2012/12/profiling-sensor-and-photon-noise/ for all the glory details. It is especially smoothing with the option "wavelets".


7

SImple answer: not to a measurable extent. Difficult answer: A high ISO-equivalent setting cranks the analog gain up. More gain requires more power per electron (or milliVolt if you prefer), but there's going to be far fewer electrons in each pixel bucket. A low ISO-equiv. setting will apply less gain to more electrons. That said, if you're in ...


7

What is the point of very high ISO capability? To take pictures without as much light. Just because a camera is capable of shooting at ISO 25600 (the actual ISO amplification limit of the EOS 6D) doesn't mean one has to shoot at ISO 25600, or even at ISO 6400. It's perfectly OK to use ISO 100 when that works. But as technology advances and we can get ...


6

It would take a rather brightly lit room to get your ISO down that low. I've got a low hanging, 5 light fixture in a small white room and I just metered f/3.2, 1/60 and ISO 1250. So, bright sun is definitely going to help, but ISO 200 or 100 inside, at f/3.2, without flash is an impossible dream. You either need a faster lens (like a f/1.4) - but that is ...


6

The answer to this question is that you have taken a wide ranging collection of terms and taken a very narrow range of meanings for them. If you use the meanings that many people do then the question fades away. Your individual assumptions would be considered invalid in most cases my many photographers and, taken as a whole, would be considered invalid by ...


6

Beyond the sensationalist title, I think what you are asking is simply - Are my results typical? To which I'd answer, yes your results are typical and expected. I don't often try to shoot in the woods, in November, right before sunset, handheld, but if I did - I would be well aware that I am pushing the capabilities of my equipment no matter if I have a f/...


5

With the parents permission, you are going to get the best results by putting a remotely triggered flash unit on her balcony. Then you expose for the ambient and adjust flash power to light her properly -- at dusk this could be a really cool shot. This is much cheaper than a 300mm f/2.8 and will greatly expand your capabilities as a photographer. Pick up a ...


5

High ISO can be a factor (see Is there a technique to increase saturation in high ISO?), but I suspect that another effect you are seeing is the decrease of natural-full spectrum light relative to the fluorescent light source — see How does light quality vary between fluorescent (CFL) and incandescent? (with sunlight being roughly the same as incandescent in ...


5

I can see two possibilities that aren't related to post-processing either in or out of camera. First, increase the light, either through changing the scene or by using wider aperture and longer shutter — and thereby lowering the required ISO. This doesn't seem exactly in the spirit of your question, though. So, second: let the darker scenes be themselves. ...


5

If you have noise reduction completely turned off then the effect of using a high ISO setting on battery life should be minimal. Most of the increased power demand of using high ISO settings is due to the increased processing required to implement noise reduction. Even when saving in raw format, the camera still processes the raw data to produce a jpeg ...


5

The sensitivity measured in “ISO” is realized in digital cameras by an amplifier with a variable gain. The amplifier gain can be measured in dB as well, which may be more convenient for some applications. The “ISO” is basically a legacy measure mapping the experience from film photography where each film had a given, non-changeable, sensitivity which was ...


5

You probably don't need to worry too much about it for many pictures. If you're using a boosted ISO level, it's presumably because you need it - and you're happy with the quality you get at that ISO setting. Think of it as an added bonus that lets you get shots you otherwise might not. At digitally boosted ISOs, you have fewer possible brightness values in ...


5

The short answer is: because it's useful. I'd much rather have to deal with a bit of noise at 3200 and to still get my shot, rather than not getting my shot at all. The real question is: what is the maximum amount of noise you can deal with for your intended photo and, given that, can you still get your shot? ISO 320 is really low for any camera made in ...


5

High ISO is a traditional expression from the film days. High ISO is 800 ASA and up. It's always been that way. When you reached the 800 ASA film, you were buying high ISO along with the attendant grain. You had to be much more careful with your exposure and your process. In digital cameras, there's a specific phrase called expanded ISO which is accessible ...


4

The short answer: It's darker then you think it is. Here's a depiction of various brightnesses and an exposure value which nominally will give correct exposure at that brightness. Note that these are overlaid — the area of the whole circle is what matters, not the separated rings. This seems shocking, because our eyes are so good at adjusting, but a scene ...


4

Why is my camera metering indoor scenes as darker than I expect it would? Because the scene is darker than you assumed it would be. Indirect sunlight is not as bright as direct sunlight. It is usually nowhere near as bright. Much, if not all, of the light that is shining through the window has likely already been reflected by something else and unlike ...


4

You are correct that there is no free lunch. Software NR works by looking for sharp edges and trying to identify what is detail and what is noise, but at a very fine level, they can't be distinguished. What you will normally see with light NR is a reduction in fine detail, but gross detail is maintained. The more you turn up NR, the more gross the detail ...


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