6

You haven't given enough information to produce a definitive answer, but here's how I suggest you can help determine the information yourself. I own and use 2 sets of ND grads from 1–3 stops, both hard-transition and soft-transition, plus a few specialty transition ND grads (reverse ND grad, "sunset strip" ND, 0-transition/continuous ND grad). Hard vs. ...


3

I don't have a good answer for your specific question, but my desire for precise ND graduated filters has led me to think about solutions somewhat similar to your problem. To begin with, it's instructive to understand the current state of the art for how graduated ND filters are created. As an example, here's a video from Lee Filters about how their ND ...


2

It's all based on personal preferences. If you're unsure then perhaps your initial purchase should be a cheap set that you can experiment with until you discover what density does what you wish. A set with 1, 2, and 3 stop filters can be used in various combinations to get anywhere from 1 to 6 stops of density. Graduated filters also benefit greatly from ...


2

I can share with you what I did and what worked for me. It may not directly help you(or it might) but it may help others in a similar situation. I have a Canon full frame camera and my widest lens that I use with this setup currently is the Canon 17-40mm f/4 L. Essentially what I did was purchase the standard Cokin P holder, modify it a bit, then position ...


2

Functionally, there isn't much difference. The difference really comes down to very small details of each technique, or precisely how the source images for each technique were taken, environment constraints, etc. Given the following assumptions: shooting RAW; no movement in the scene (i.e., no heavy wind blowing trees around, etc.); zero color-cast of a ...


2

With shooting a foreground and the sky, you've got a couple of choices: A) You can use multiple shots and then blend them together in post processing. A minimum would be two exposures - one to properly expose the foreground and one for the sky. That being said, if you're going to blend things, you may as well go big and start at a proper exposure for the ...


2

All square filter holders function about the same way: there is the holder and some sort of spring/tension plate holding the filter into the slot in the holder. I use a Formatt-Hitech holder which looks like this: You can see how the plastic curves inward and it is flexible so that you can slide a filter in and tension holds it in place. This concept ...


1

It's possible to do what you want to do, but it's a little fiddly to use. Certainly doable, though. Screw the K&F Concept VND onto the lens. Screw the correct Cokin Z lens adapter onto the front of the VND filter. Adjust the VND to the desired light stoppage. (Optional, but recommended) Tape down the VND so it can't rotate. You don't need a lot of tape, ...


1

Most filters have threads on both sides and can be stacked. But AFAIK the front side of a variable ND rotates, which makes it very impractical with a filter holder and many won't have a thread on the front. But your filter holder can likely accept several filters.


1

There are various filter thicknesses. Most square filter holders are modular and can be disassembled/assembled using various pieces to allow for filters with different thicknesses. Most 100mm square/rectangular filters are in the 2-3 mm range and many filter holders can accommodate anything from 2mm to 3mm thickness without needing any changes.


1

I actually had a similar issue to this not so long ago, the simple fix was simply to press the h key as a shortcut, this resolved it for me.


1

A great difference: graduated neutral-density filters (GND) are preset to cut brightness only in specific areas. High-dynamic-range applications (HDR) merge multiple photos of the same subject taken at different exposures. A GND is useful, for example, in a scene where the sky is very bright and there is a dark, level, horizon. HDR is more generally ...


1

The safe answer is that it is a combination of over-exposure and chromatic abberation, which is then very visible over the black leaves. But there may be more to it than that. Camera sensors are not colorimetrically identical to human eyes, they may see a bit into the infrared and/or ultraviolet spectrum too. IR light may add to the red channel, UV light ...


1

... weird blue leaves when shot against a bright sky... – Doctor Atomo I doubt the blue leaves are caused by the Bayer matrix on your sensor because an image produced by a Foveon sensor also has the same effect. I suspect they are chromatic aberration caused by your lens or diffraction of skylight around the leaves. The resolution of the sample images is ...


1

The question is semantically not clear. "Before" can mean "first", opposite of "after". "Before" can mean "in front", opposite of "behind". And it depends what exactly comes first, i.e. closest to the front element. But my experience is this: When I use an ND, for example a 10-stopper, then first I put the CPL onto the front of the lens, so I can lock M ...


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