21

Phase detect autofocus in DSLRs works by comparing patterns of light coming from each side of the lens using pairs of detectors which are separated a certain distance on the AF sensor. This distance is called the baseline, and the greater the baseline the more accurately the distance can be measured. The need for a wide baseline and for light to travel from ...


19

I don't think you're lacking in sharpness: at full size, the image you post shows sharp eyelashes and teeth. If you are using a large aperture (<F2), that explains the unsharp ears. When you reduce the size at which the image is displayed, apparent sharpness tends to decrease. To get the impression of sharpness back, you'd have to apply some sharpening ...


14

A number of articles have been written about the problem with the focus and recompose technique. While the general idea they espouse is theoretically correct, most of them are really actually wrong on a number of points. First and foremost, most of them assume that you want to focus at the extreme corner of your picture. While you can do that, it's pretty ...


12

Looking at the example image at full magnification, it seems that the sharpest part of the boy's face is the tip of his nose. If you look at his left hand (camera right), you see that the area from around his fingers' first knuckles back almost to his wrist is the sharpest part of the entire photo. This could be due to: You placing the AF point on his nose....


11

There are two main cases: Focus and recompose can cause misofocus when using really fast lenses as by rotating the camera the focal plane rotates and thus will no longer pass exactly through your subject. Most of the time the subject will still be within the depth of field so this effect goes unnoticed, however with shallow depth of field focus and ...


10

The best thing to do is to manually select the focus point closest to what you want to be the point of focus, and if necessary recompose only slightly from there. That's because turning the camera to recompose moves the plane of focus more than you might think — see this answer for a nice diagram. Typically, with portraits, focusing on the eyes is ...


8

Modern auto-focus systems are designed to accommodate a wide range of shooting applications that require different ways of using the auto-focus system. Which way is the best for you depends on several factors: Your subject matter, your skill level, and which setup produces the most consistent and accurate results for the particular camera/lens combination ...


8

1) Manual focus means you must turn the focus ring to change the focus distance of the lens. Anytime the camera moves the focus point of the lens you are using autofocus (AF). With the Canon EOS system you use the AF/MF switch on the lens to select Manual Focus (MF) or Autofocus (AF). Other than a few exotic big white Super Telephoto lenses that have an ...


6

When I started to use the new camera this was also the case, but more recently, when I hit the AF point selection button, the 9 red points appear, but only for a fraction of a second, and then disapear before I can make a choice. Select any of the Creative Modes (P/Tv/Av/M/B/C) on the top mode dial Press the Menu button Navigate to Custom Functions tab ...


6

In Live View, the mirror is up and the AF collimators do not have view of the scene and can't do any focusing. The EOS Quick Mode flips the mirror down, exposing the scene to the collimators and then flips the mirror back up. There isn't a way for a traditional mirror-equipped DSLR to show live view WHILE using the collimators to focus. The Sony Alpha DSLRs ...


6

Cross type focus points are slightly better than horisontal/vertical focus points. A cross type focus point is basically a horisontal and a vertical focus point in one. The only problem what you would have with focus points that are not the cross type, is that they have problem focusing on patterns that are horisontal or vertical, depending on their ...


6

I am not 100% sure what you mean. Looking at the viewfinder of my 500D, it looks like (Via Bob Atkins) If I take the liberty to add "thirds lines", it looks like this: Unless you mean "100% spot on!", this looks very much like spots in the intersections of thirds lines. (My handiwork is a bit shoddy on the second picture, I have to admit as well.)


6

As others have noted, there often are focus points near to the rule of thirds intersection points, but they aren't always precisely in that location. There might be some consumer demand for it, but there are two major reasons why not, both answered, I think, by my answers to What is the “Rule of Thirds”? and What is the 'Golden Ratio' and why is it better ...


5

The thing you have to remember is that the areas of sensitivity for each focus point are larger than the representation of those points in the viewfinder. This is especially true when using zone focus. The camera will focus on the area of highest contrast within the entire area of sensitivity. This will not necessarily be the area directly behind the little ...


5

Both the Canon 600D and the 650D have 9 focus points: the central focus point of the Canon 600D is cross-type, the others are not all the 9 focus points of the Canon 650D are cross-type.


5

Most Canon DSLRs can do it. On the EOS 60D this is called Quick Mode, despite it not being quick at all. You just have to select the option in the Camera menu. The other option is Live Mode which uses contrast-detection. It is called the same on the 7D and I believe very similarly on the T?i models as well but I don't have them here to check at this time.


5

The manual pretty much says no, the OK button on the rear controls this toggle. It does say, though, that when in the mode to adjust focus there's a little rectangular controller icon that appears in the viewfinder. I checked that on my K-5 and the icon will appear down and immediately to the left of the shutter speed value. So not ideal but at least there's ...


5

What you need is high depth of field. That means the distance range from the camera where subjects are acceptably in focus is longer. You say depth of field is not the issue since the background is just a wall. The background doesn't matter. It's the min and max distance of all intended subjects from the camera that matters. Clearly this is your problem ...


5

You're going to have a very tough time shooting far-away birds with that setup. Capturing birds-in-flight is one of the most challenging forms of photography there is in terms of gear limitations and photographer skill. In addition to photographic skill the photographer must also practice excellent fieldcraft to get as close as possible to the subjects. You ...


5

How can I focus on more objects, say three dogs sitting in front of you, while maintaining a nice background blur/shallow DOF? I have a kit lens ranging from 18-55mm with a variable aperture of f/3.5-5.6. This is difficult to do with any lens, let alone a kit lens with an f/3.5-5.6 maximum aperture on a crop body. I have problems doing this with an f/1.2 ...


4

If you want everyone in focus (and you do), but want a well blurred background, you have a few options: 1) Situate the group so that everyone is in the same plane (difficult) 2) Situate the group so that the background is as far away as possible, so that you can use a smaller aperture with more DOF. 3) Using a tripod, take a series of shots at different ...


4

I've published a plugin recently which does what you are looking for: http://www.lightroomfocuspointsplugin.com It currently works in Lightroom 5, currently for all Canon + Nikon DSLR, additional cameras will be added in the future. Works on Mac and Windows. Hope it helps.


4

Your best option is probably to put the camera on a tripod and use magnified Live View to do precision manual focusing. Some cameras support focus peaking via an electronic viewfinder or the Live View screen, which allows the camera to tell you what parts of the entire frame are most in focus. This may or may not be helpful when you are trying to isolate ...


4

Freezing motion is about controlling the light, more importantly it's about controlling the amount of time the light will strike the sensor. To do that, you have two basic options: Shutter speed Flash duration Shutter speed with ambient light is pretty tricky unless you have a lot of really bright light. The better way to go about this is to control the ...


4

In general, you'd want to focus on a spot midway, to slightly closer than midway, between near and far objects of interest. So, if your shot includes cars 1-4 blocks away, focus on a car ~2 blocks away. You'll also want to increase your aperture so that more of your pictures are in focus. How much you can increase it depends on the amount of ambient ...


4

A macro lens' maximum magnification can only be achieved at minimum focus. So to get maximum magnification you must move the camera towards or away from the subject to focus a specific area of it. That is the main advantage of using a focus rail. In the case of stacking images, though, maximum magnification in every frame is probably of secondary ...


4

When you use a larger sensored camera, you're going to be working with a thinner depth of field either due to using a longer lens, or from being closer to the subject to get the same framing. The reason the Fuji and Nikon bridge cameras don't have as much trouble focusing is that with a smaller 1/2.3"-format sensor and a superzoom lens that has 500mm or so ...


4

As a bird photographer (I was founder of the bird photography group on G+) I have to say that photographing birds is hard. The areas around birds tend to be clutters (leaves, branches, etc) and this can confuse the autofocus. Light is normally marginal so you need the large apertures, which narrows depth of field, so any auto focus mistake kills the image. ...


4

This is a bit of an apples and oranges comparison, because the D610 is a full frame camera. isn't it more comfortable to have less focus points wider spread over the whole field instead of like 50 in a small area in the center? There are two different things here: number of af points spread of af points Now here's the thing: the af points of the D610 ...


4

If you have the luxury to focus with the center point and recompose, then this is your best solution. This is because the center point is the most sensible AF point and will nail the focus the best. Be sure tough to have enough DoF in order to catch the portrait in focus (unless of course if you want to achieve some special effects) and, also, focus ...


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