New answers tagged flash
2
Software like Photomatix will let you specify the exposure offsets for the images. If trying to use Adobe, then you will need to modify the exif with an external editor.
Alternatively, shutter speed does not affect the flash exposure and will allow you to bracket using flash power and cause an exif difference.
But your premise is wrong from what I can see... ...
3
A solution is to alter the EXIF data of the photos to make the HDR software believe that the exposure is different.
Normally, a factor of two on the power (halved or doubled) should entail difference of one EV (in the EXIF, better translated as a change is exposure duration, since this doesn't change the DoF in case it matters).
The problem is figuring out ...
1
It's highly variable, depending on the shooting options selected and the shooting conditions. A lot goes on between pressing the button and taking the image. If you haven't pre-focused, and you're in very low light it could take several seconds. If you've pre-focused and are in bright light, it should only take a few tens of milliseconds.
3
I'm sure it would be a whole lot cheaper to just buy a stack of rechargeable NiMh AA batteries & carry spares with you.
Li-ion still need recharging, even if they run better overall than NiMh. You can get Li-ion rechargeables in small forms like AA & AAA, but they are considerably more expensive. UK Amazon prices as example - AA NiMh, 16 for £25 (I ...
1
As Kai Mattern says built-in flashes have their limitations. For a snapshot, at less than 3 meter people usually do not mind as their strong point is that they are always available and do not require carrying an extra item and extra weight.
For quality photo's the limitations make it unuseable and therefore professionals generally have no use for such a ...
0
One word: shadow-lifting. It's much less prone to noise to lift shadows with a small flash close to the lens (to avoid conspicuous extra shadows) than to do it in post-processing. That is particularly true of outdoor scenes in bright sunlight where you have objects of interest in the shadow, making for a very high dynamic range. To raise the level of ...
3
Manufacturers have to decide what features to include and exclude. Cameras have finite size, and some features conflict with others. For example, pop-up flash makes weather sealing more difficult, so they wouldn't be included in a model where weather sealing is more important.
Some users prefer not to have built-in flash. They use external flash, and the ...
0
If you take a look at the guide number diagram, you get a guide number of 20m at 25ASA which corresponds to a guide number of 40m at about ISO100, at very wide angle illumination. The reflector cannot really hold a candle to a more modern flash tube reflector. An equivalent electronic flash would have significant energy to dispose of: the Metz hammerhead ...
6
The electronics in modern cameras (including the sensor but not restricted to it) have become marvelously efficient, allowing for significant reduction in size including the size of the battery. Electronic flash, in contrast, has not changed a lot with regard to the used energy to the achieved illumination. As a result, you still need charge capacitors of ...
30
Integrated flash is still a thing in cheaper consumer cameras, that are mainly built to be used in full auto.
Integrated flash however has some drawbacks:
Relatively weak, so anything that is not a close upper body shot is probably out of reach.
As they are mounted very close to the lens, you not only get very flat lighting, you also risk effects like red ...
5
For dealing with low light, flash is just one option. Wider lenses, slower shutter speeds enabled by stabilization (in lens or in body or on a tripod), and noise reduction in higher ISO settings all provide more creative flexibility. Since many built-in flashes have such limited power, even hot shoe flashes provide more options like tilting and swiveling and ...
1
The basic reason you haven't found simple "plug and play" electronic bulbs that would work in a non-modified flash made for single use bulbs is that it's not really feasible.
The energy for single use flash bulbs is contained in the chemicals inside the bulb, not in the small amount of current applied to them to initiate a chemical reaction that ...
2
Original flash bulbs aren't all that rare -- last time I looked, they were pretty easy to find on eBay (maybe Etsy too, these days). There are several kinds, however; the bayonet style (base like an old style incandescent tail light bulb), the push-in "M" style, and the "AG" ("all glass") type with no applied metal base. I can'...
2
The flash is a german make produced by Zeiss. Replacement bulbs are called RF1B Blitzlampen (translates to flash bulbs). You may have luck with that as a search string. Form time to time, the tend to show up on ebay, or a photo store sells them as vintage stuff for around 15 Euro/Dollars a pack.
There is also the german manual page here: https://www....
2
You've got a mode mismatch between your pop-up flash settings and your 568EX III's slave mode. You either need to take your pop-up flash out of Commander mode, and use it as a regular pop-up flash in M to use the 568EX III in S1 (or TTL to use the 568EX III in S2). Or, you need to set the 586EX III into Sn mode (with the MODE button) to make it a "...
0
One YN622C on my camera.
One YN622c on my YN656EXIII.
Two YN600EXRTII triggered by the YN622C on my camera.
Would I be able to do that...?
No. The Yongnuo 622 2.4 GHz triggering system is incompatible with the Canon RT system Yongnuo's cloned for their RT gear. To use a YN-622C or YN-622-TX as your on-camera transmitter, the YN-600EX-RT flashes would ...
-1
LED flash is not white colour (continous spectrum like sun or edison or tungsten bulb). LED is RGB, a mixture of red, green, blue light. Cheaper / older (pseudo-)white LEDs accomplish this by using three separate LEDs (R + G + B).
And as others have noticed there is a severe magenta cast in the flash picture which means there is no green in the picture.
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