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5

I do not know at which resolution you scanned your image, but i'm willing to bet that it is way larger than needed or useful for web viewing. The first thing you should do is resize the image down to some useful dimensions. Think about how large it will be viewed and resize accordingly (keep in mind that currently a high end monitor resolution is 2560x1440)...


2

The specific difference between the Cinestill 2-bath developer kit and the Tetenal 3-bath developer kit is that Cinestill leaves out the final stabilizer bath, or more precisely label it as 'optional'. They claim in their data sheet that modern C41 films contain embedded stabilizer chemicals, which are released during the first two baths, so that a separate ...


2

Rodinal is a good one, my personal favorite. The 100 ml "Baby" Rodinal from Adox is an especially good choice for infrequent developing; the small packaging lasts only for a couple films (whether it is good or ill depends on your volume). Just to give you more options you might consider Ilford HC and / or Kodak HC 110. Both of these (the "difference" ...


2

Use Rodinal. The last bottle I emptied had been opened for at least 15 years and kept at room temperature without any protective measurements.


2

Compression algorithms find ways to clump groups of pixels into like colors in order to save space. For example, if a row of pixels was: Red, Red, Kinda Red, Somewhat Red, Red, then a compression may be: Red x 5. (This is really dumbed down example). Note how you lost some data but the size of the information could get smaller. All that being said...there ...


1

There are two ways to make an image file occupy fewer bits: Resize it (downwards) Use greater compression on the file You are only trying "option 2". Start with "option 1". If you know the (maximum) pixel dimensions at which you want the photo to display, the first thing you should do (after post-processing) is to resize the image to those pixel dimensions....


1

If the film is completely transparent: no numbers on the edges and, critically, no fogged leader, then it has never seen the developer. But it has seen fixer, or it would look like undeveloped film (possibly with the anti-halation layer washed away), which is kind of grey (and will get darker over time as light hits it). As Alan Marcus says, if the leader ...


1

You say, the bottom roll was transparent -- look at it again and tell us if you see any edge printing. 1. void of any image or blackening whatsoever even the edge printing with frame and emulsion type missing top and bottom. 2. Edge printing one side of film only. 3. Edge printing both sides but nothing else. Edge printing is photographically applied and ...


1

For 4 to 8 minutes -- 2/3 to 1 f-stop compensation is all you need apply.


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