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12

I would say TIFF is probably the best format. JPEG 2000, like JPEG, is still a lossy compressed format when you really try to save space (the lossless version can compress a bit, but not nearly as much as the lossy form, and some forms of the "lossless" wavelet compression still can't fully reproduce the exact original image.) When scanning in an original ...


6

I get reasonably good results photographing negatives with a slide copier attachment and a macro lens (vs using a flatbed scanner). However, if you plan to scan many frames of film, you should consider a dedicated film scanner with batch feeder. Depending on your lens and camera, image quality from a film scanner may or may not be better, but it would be ...


5

Without being able to see the negatives in question, there are three things you should check: Monitor calibration: This can be ruled out somewhat if you can make two identical scans with the same parameters (curve, white/mid/black points, etc.). Backlight on your scanner: I have had issues with my own scanner where sometimes the backlight is set very bright ...


5

Fast scanning + Accurate Colour Reproduction without having to post process + Even lighting of the image + $500 USD = :-) ...you must be dreaming, :-) depending of course on what you mean by 'speed' (the main problem) and 'accuracy'. The real option here is Imacon. You have some cheaper solutions in Ken Rockwell's How to Scan Your 3,000 Slide Archive . ...


4

In the case of a film scanner, an IT-8 target is a slide of known colours that you scan, and then you use software to analyse the scanned image to compare with those known colours. This characterises the colour-reading ability of your particular device, and allows a customised colour profile to be generated that can be applied to subsequent scans of positive ...


4

but I'm wondering if I will see either a difference in quality if I were to use something like a Lecia Sofort, or one of the (newish?) Fujifilm instax? There's actually quite a bit of difference between instant cameras and those that shoot film. Film, the negative, is designed to be an intermediary process. It's designed knowing full well that someone will ...


4

The Nikon scanners do not require regular maintenance. They are however quite prone to dirt and dust. Your best bet keeping the scanner running problem free for a long time is to store it in a clean place (wrapped in a cover) when not in use. Some units are also starting to show signs of age and may e.g. have problems with the lubrication drying out. They ...


4

Well, sure there are devices for scanning APS film. You can get an APS adapter for a Nikon Coolscan IV. I have a couple old Minolta DiMAGE Scan Dual IIs that accept APS. You can use a flatbed (V700 is probably the best) with an uncut-120 film holder, secure the film in the holder, then cut the images in Photoshop (scan software, GIMP, whatever) as you scan ...


4

This totally depends on the bundled software. My old scanner had really horrible software that required me to follow something like 7 configuration steps in order to scan negative film - and repeat those steps for every single scan, even if I scan several pieces of negative film in a row. On the other side, some high-end scanners come bundled with ...


3

Simply put: No. You don't really need to worry about dynamic range if you are planning to scan ordinary color negatives. A scanner's Dmax becomes a limiting factor only when scanning high-density transparency material like color-reversal films. In order to tell you why I have to clarify a couple of concepts. Film Density As you expose and develop a film, ...


2

This is explained here but unless you really insist on building your own, I suggest you buy a slide-scanning attachment which is quite cheap. In either case you need a close-focusing lens. If you have a macro lens, then use it. Otherwise you will have to get macro focusing using another macro technique such as extension tubes. You will also need an even ...


2

I like the broad hardware and OS support, nice license, and rapid update cycle, of VueScan - it runs on all the desktop machines in my home, and talks to all the scanners.


2

A possible algorithm for better isolate the dust and scratches is explained in Comprehensive Solutions for Removal of Dust and Scratches from Images and in Manual Dirt/Scratch Removal Using Infrared Channel (archived version, text-only). The idea is to remove the shadow of the color information from the infrared image by using the red channel (the one with ...


2

FWIW, there is wider sleeving that will hold four strips of 3 6x7s, such as this sleeving material. If the scanner only detects the first two frames, then after you've scanned the first two frames, maybe you can insert the film upside-down to get the scanner to detect the last frame, then rotate that scan afterward.


2

Wasting a sleeve is the right way to go unfortunately. If you're extremely careful yes they will barely fit in as 3s, but I've found that they'll slip out one edge and damage your film if you breath wrong. Definitely do not go with an internegative (rephotographing your negatives) process, I'm not sure where that came from.


2

For the file format choose either TIFF or JPEG with an high quality settings. JPEG is lossy, but you are scanning and archiving not editing and resaving - so if you find the quality settings that gives you acceptable results on JPEG they will stay acceptable for ever - there is no data loss while the files are on-disk only if you edit and re-save them. ...


1

It sounds like you are new to scanning. Hope this helps. 1) With any high res scan, choose to save as Tiff in the maximum bit depth that your editing software will handle. Probably 32 or 48 bit. With black and white, 16 bit is sufficient. 2) You must decide what size scan you want to produce before you set your resolution and output size. I find ...


1

This is what I would start with. You'll likely have to tweak settings to fit your specific needs. The main setting to disable is Digital ICE. The silver in B&W film interferes with its function. Original: Document Type and Film Type – These probably just set some reasonable defaults. What you've selected seems appropriate (Film, B&W Negative). Scan ...


1

It looks like your scanner is scanning with a limited spectrum when you ask to scan BW begative images, hence the flattening when luminance details come from blue and green channels, and little from red channel. When I take the red channel from the color scan you published, I get (with few adjustements with 'curves') a very close result as your BW scans, ...


1

Putting this in answer form only because it claimed my comment was too long.... You would have better luck with this question in Ubuntu's SE: http://askubuntu.com/ Your options will probably be limited but I wouldn't be surprised if there are a few open source solutions available outside of Ubuntu's Software Center. I've never dealt with the scanning of ...


1

There is a lot to be gained and a lot to be lost by passing via a scanner rather than an enlarger. If you have really to use a scanner (maybe you don't have a darkroom) you should make sure that you are doing your best to preserve information. This includes avoiding clipping and imposing a curve (that is, scanning directly to jpg) and making sure that you ...


1

Having the same problem, I was thinking of buying a macro lens for my DSLR, making a simple device to hold the slide against a properly illuminated background and shooting with the remote control of the camera. This device should be a "drop-pick" type, where the slide does not need any enclosure, locking or adjustment. Once the tests are done, I hope I can "...


1

I have a Nikon Coolscan V ED 35mm film scanner myself, and have noticed that Nikon marketed a separate attachment gizmo for this model that allowed one to scan APS films (out of the box, the V handles 135-format only, either by filmstrip feeder or slide holder). So yes, there are solutions out there. The problem is that the Coolscan V is now out of ...


1

My conclusio after investigations and a lot of trying on my own is, that labs are using Software mostly set to auto-correct the image (e.g whitebalance, tinting). Thats why sometimes images of the same roll are looking different in color cast, depending on how "good" the Software was able to calculate whitebalance etc. Scanning cross processed film at home (...


1

I bought the Canon Canoscan LiDE 210. I wanted a scanner that rapidly went through photographs from old photo albums but had better quality than the little 600 dpi autofeed jobs like the Kodaks (which are rapid and great, but low quality). Unfortunately, the Canon CanoScan is not the answer. It says it does 4800 dpi in 10 secs on the box, but in reality ...


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