17

It is a 70mm Graflex KE-4 “Combat Graphic” made from 1953-1957. Graflex KE-4 Combat Graphic


10

No. After you advance the film, you can't re-expose a previous frame on a Nikon FM2. the inaccuracy of the film advance mechanism plus the uncertainty of the position of initial starting point makes this a nearly impossible, as Alan Marcus points out. If you don't advance the film on a FM2 after an accidental exposure with the lens cap on, you can use the ...


10

Sorry to report that the inaccuracy of the film advance mechanism plus the uncertainty of the position of initial starting point makes this a nearly impossible task. If you rewound the film back into the cassette and attempted to reposition the unexposed frame for a retake, most likely an adjacent frame would be double exposed. Best advice is to let this ...


5

There's something in your camera's light box fairly close in front of the film plane. Just because it is intermittent doesn't mean it isn't there. In fact, intermittent obstructions indicate that it is almost certainly something to do with the parts that move every time you shoot a frame: the shutter assembly and the mirror assembly. I certainly don't ...


5

Double 8 movie film --- The first successful motion picture system was an invention of Thomas Edison. His system used 35mm wide long rolls of film. To transport the film through the camera smoothly, the film was punched on the left and right edges with holes (sprocket holes) that engaged with gears in the film transport mechanism. Movies and 35mm wide film ...


4

I think it's more likely these photos were taken with a film that was rated at a higher speed, shot at that speed, and "pushed" in the processing to compensate for the "underexposure." Film then was relatively slow. One of the very fastest film was rated at "ASA" 1200 (Royal Pan X, for example) and processed in a high-energy developer or in rare ...


3

This is called focus and recompose. Note the position of the focus point in the bottom left picture - it is between the two people. If you tried to focus there, the camera would focus on the background, throwing the subjects out of focus. So you focus on one subject, then recompose so both subjects are now in the frame. You only have to do this in similar ...


3

The really muted cinema stuff—like Saving Private Ryan—isn't about the film, it's about the processing. Specifically, bleach bypass. In color film developed normally, activating the color couplers is a side-effect of developing three b&w silver images. These silver images are then bleached away, leaving just the color. In bleach bypass that step is ...


3

Old Leica screw-mount cameras were designed to be used with longer leaders. You have two options: Reshape the leader with scissors or other cutting implement. You may make or purchase a leader template if desired. See YouTube: How to load 35mm film in to a Screw Mount Leica. Load the film without reshaping the leader. Make sure the film is fully seated so ...


3

No, it doesn't require batteries, although there are drawbacks to using the camera without them. The battery powers the camera's light meter. This means you will not be able to shoot in auto without a battery. You could shoot manually, but this would mean metering must be done either by guestimating, using the sunny 16 rule, or by the use of an external ...


3

The light meter that's in your camera is an reflective meter. Reflective meters measure the light that is reflected off of the subject, and determine the exposure based on that reading. Standalone incident meters, like the Sekonic models, instead measure the light that falls onto your subject. There are multiple reasons for choosing one over the other: ...


3

The rewind button on manual cameras serves to release the take up spool so that you can use the rewind lever to get the film back into that can. Pushing the button alone doesn’t do anything. Releasing it puts things back how they were. Side note, on cameras that don’t have multiple exposure support out of the box, you can hold the button down while ...


3

Seems like your shutter curtain is damaged or needs a CLA (Clean-Lubricate-Adjust) At faster shutter speeds part of the image gets blocked by the shutter curtain. The slower shutter speeds seem fine, which is illustrated by your indoor shots not having any dark areas. Getting shutters repaired is an expensive task and oftentimes it is a better option to ...


3

When you set the ISO on camera, that is the adjustment to compensate for increased development time. Any further changes to shutter speed or aperture would change the exposure further. In the scenario you describe, you want to process ISO 400 film at ISO 1600. That is a two-stop increase in development. So exposure has to decrease by two stops. Based on ...


3

How it normally works with a lens with an aperture control ring: the camera will meter with the lens wide-open, and when you press the shutter, the lens will stop down until it is physically stopped by the setting of the aperture control ring. The camera will know ahead of time what the aperture ring's setting is because there is a position lever on the ...


2

This is an image of a series i took way back in ancient times with an instamatic film camera. There was a loose covering inside, which i only noticed after half a month of traveling portugal. The piece shows up differently on each photo and not at all on some of them. But finding and fixing this was pretty easy once i noticed, as it was fairly obvious when ...


2

The flange distances don't appear to be the hanging point. The OM registration distance is only 0.5mm shorter than the Nikon F mount. There are Nikon F to Canon FD adapters. It seems to be more of an issue with the opposite direction of rotation for the two respective lens mounts combined with specific clearance issues due to the FD breech lock style mount ...


2

From the Wikipedia FM2 article: The FM2 accepts all Nikon F bayonet mount lenses that support the Automatic Indexing (AI) feature introduced in 1977. The Nikon-made AI lenses of this type are the AF-S Nikkor, AF-I Nikkor, AF Nikkor D, AF Nikkor, Nikkor AI-S, Nikkor AI and Nikon Series E types. Nikon’s most recent 35 mm film SLR lenses, the AF Nikkor G ...


2

With few limitations, you can use almost any arbitrary combination of cameras and flashes. It is no problem to use a Nikon flash on the Zenit 122. The flash shoe and the functionality of the middle contact pin is standardized and supported by most camera and flash models. This pin is simply used by the camera to tell the flash when to trigger. What will ...


2

The analog camera you use most likely has no autofocus and thus has a split prism. These are great for manual focusing, but not so great for auto exposure (AE), as AE is done after the focusing screen. Since AF usually works fast (and has a confirmation by LEDs), most cameras use plain focusing screens, though some professional cameras offer interchangeable ...


1

When considering film cameras that are the ages of the models listed in the question the prime consideration should not be on a comparison of features, it should be focused on the current condition of each one. That will affect each one's usability or non-usability much more than their comparative specifications when they were new.


1

“An external flash for digital Nikon” means it would be a TTL or iTTL flash. A TTL Auto flash will not work well because it will not be able to communicate with the camera. This usually means it will only fire at full power in TTL mode. If the TTL flash also has a manual mode, it could work, but you will need to do lots of calculations using the flash ...


1

You need to tell us the make and model of the camera. Some models, upon being loaded and the back shut, advance the film all the way. In other words, the normal action of the camera is to pull out all the film and wind it onto a take-up spool. Thereafter, the camera returns the film, one frame length at a time, as a picture is taken, to the safety of the ...


1

I meant ’the images have darker overall tone than I'm expecting'. If so how can it be achieved? I don't think there's any magic here, except one of perception. See What is "correct" exposure?, and any number of "is this photograph too dark?" questions we've gotten over the years (like this or this). These days, we tend to expect a certain mid-...


1

If you've put T-Max 400 in the camera and set the ASA/ISO dial to 1600, when the camera's meter indicates '0' at 1/250 @ f/2.8 you're already underexposing by two stops. This is because the meter thinks you've got 1600 speed film in the camera, but the film in the camera is still 400 speed. It doesn't magically change its chemical properties just because you ...


1

I recently bought a perfectly working Mamiya 528AL The rest of your post directly contradicts this. If where you got the camera from declared it as in mint or great condition, you may want to return it if it is, in fact, not perfectly working. But, before we get there... The rewind mechanism is essential. It disengages the film advance so that you can get ...


1

I don't know the name of the part, but based on this photo of a Pro S 120 module, you are missing a part where you suspect you are.


1

The Leica Minilux and Contax T2 both could fit, depending on what you mean by "large pocket-sized" and "relativley cheap". They both have aperture priority and go up to ISO 5000. The Minilux may be to big and brick-shaped for you, the T2 may be too expensive.


1

The specifications I've found at a couple photo-fan sites say that there is no override. If you're up for the challenge, I'm sure there's a way to take the body apart and physically disconnect the flash. Otherwise, grab that roll of black electrical tape :-)


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