32

In the darkroom, place a piece of the material you will be developing, flat, face up, on the work space. Place a handful of coins on this material. Using a timer, remove a coin every 5 minutes. 12 coins will cover 1 hour. At the end of the time span, develop the film or photo paper. A perfect darkroom will leave no evidence. An unsafe darkroom, reveals ...


25

Contrary to some comments here, a 135 film cartridge is very open to water intrusion. The film slot and both spindle holes are designed only to keep out light. The cartridge filled with water in just a few seconds after it was submerged. If you still have a a professional photo lab, preferably one with a darkroom and someone who knows how to use it, I would ...


20

If you are talking about locating a light leak in a changing bag for loading film into magazines and cameras without a darkroom available… Periodically, to check the condition of your changing bag, put a bright light inside the bag through one of the sleeves. Close up the bag. Sit in the darkroom or a closet with no light for a few minutes to let your eyes ...


14

Generally if film gets wet and then dries, the film will stick to itself. Sometimes it can be saved by pre=soaking in water and separated (difficulty). Prognosis is not good. Some labs may attempt -- lots of work. Best of luck.


12

The film is probably fine, but definitely heed rackandboneman's comment about informing a lab about what happened. They may not take your film if it's contaminated. Water is certainly not going to harm film. Detergent probably won't, either. Some detergents contain dyes that could settle on the emulsion or backing and may be harder to remove if the roll ...


11

what if it's the store's mistake? With regard to this specific question, you will almost certainly find in the terms & conditions of the film developing service that in the case of error on their part, they hold themselves only liable to replacement of your film with a new, unexposed roll. What that means is, if they make a mistake in development and ...


9

Jargon of photographic chemical mixing and preparation: Concentrate — Chemical that comes bottled in kits and must be diluted. Stock Solution — A chemical that has been mixed from concentrates or powdered formula. This solution must be diluted with water for use. Working Solution — Photo chemicals at the correct concentration for use. As a rule of thumb — ...


9

blank (completely black and opaque) If negative film is completely black, it could be over developed or exposed to light. Either could be the store's mistake. They may also have loaded a training roll with the intent of teaching you how to use the camera, as rackandboneman has commented. All you can hold them accountable for is the cost of the roll and ...


7

You can use the same container and mixing utensils and thermometer etc. for mixing. This is valid provided you take care to rinse well between solutions. Also, the items must not be porous (ceramic etc.). If you are in doubt regarding your ability to properly rinse, you can still proceed if containers and utensils are seasoned. To season, save small ...


7

I highly suggest you check out this book: https://www.amazon.com/Darkroom-Cookbook-Alternative-Process-Photography/dp/1138959189/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_14_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7X28P62RGESTJJRKT4MD The history of film development is a long, experimental one. Even today, people continue to experiment, even using coffee to develop the film (https://...


7

I'm pretty late to the game here, but- not knowing if you dried it or not matters a lot. If the film was still wet (swelled gelatin) then we'd probably water bath it and get it into the machine directly, after washing it with photoflo. If it's been dried, however, the lab is going to have to un-reel it and separate the gelatin from sticking, then clean it, ...


6

The 30 seconds is "wet time". In other words, you pour in the stop bath (or dunk the film in), this stop bath solution for 30 seconds (time in this solution is not critical). This Adox stop is an indicator stop. In other words, this solution contains an indicator dye that changes the solution to blue (indigo) when exhausted. The rest of the story -- ...


6

You can easily test yourself. Cut off a snippet of film, how about using the tongue of the 35mm roll etc. Pour a small amount of the fix in a small bowl. Swish the snippet about in this fluid. The film enters opaque and quickly clears and becomes transparent. All this is performed in ordinary room light. Time how long it takes for the film to clear. Double ...


5

The rational part of me says that you should go with tfb's answer. But my own laziness has led me to do a lot of stand-dev. If you'd like to experiment, put 5mL of Rodinal in per roll of film at 1:100 ratio. Pre-soak your film for ~2min in water at developing temperature. Dump that and immediately put in your Rodinal. I twist agitate for 1 min at the ...


5

Yes !! Same thing happened to me last year !! The photos actually came out cooler than I thought !! Not all of them came out but all the ones they did they where amazing !!


5

The answer is YES: The C-41 color developer is a typical (non-staining) black & white developer. Its job is to differentiate between exposed and non-exposed silver salts present on the film. The developer then goes to work on the exposed silver salts. They are reduced to their two component parts which are silver and an halogen (Iodine – chlorine – ...


5

The real tell here is the negative: The effect terminates with the edge of the frame. That means it can only be a light leak, somehow. Whether it is in the film back or in the camera itself, something is letting light in. It might be the finder, but I'll be honest- it doesn't look like anything I'd expect to see. I almost wondered if it was 'glow in the dark'...


4

I have a film strip with TMax-400. Out of 36 frames, I pushed 10 of them to ISO 1600. In the future, use the same camera ISO setting for the entire cassette. Push/pull development is done on the entire roll at once, unless you have your own darkroom. If I want it to develop in my local store. How should I instruct them to develop my negatives? First, ...


4

Answering to add more to Jerry's answer, so start your reading there. Stand development is a technique of developer exhaustion - you use very little developer chemical and leave it to "do its thing" for about an hour. It's quite possible the development is actually exhausted before, but that 60min is a tried and true amount of time. So, time matters ...


4

Ilfotol and Photo Flo are recommended solutions to use...but not required to use...in film development. They're effectively really, really dilute soaps. My bottle of Photo Flo isn't as old as tfb's - it's going on about 8 years - but I can tell you that it still looks the same, smells the same, has the same consistency, and doesn't have any particles in ...


4

Provided your Paterson tank is of type 115 - the one that can take either two 135 or one 120 films - it is the best practice to fill it with 500 ml (or so... can be up to 520 if using Rodinal 1+25 dilution) of developer. You can load the second reel empty, to ensure uniform cover or your film. For most developing situations this is merely a convenience ...


4

This will be a personal artistic decision - it is not like one of the developers would work and the other would not. Both are fine, and both are different. Having said that: the typical use case for Rodinal are classical grain films (in Ilford lineup this would mean FP4/HP5+). It is a high acutance developer, producing unmistakably grainy (not unpleasingly ...


4

I'll point out that Rodinal is a speed-reducing developer. You'll likely lose between 1/2 and 1 stop of speed when using it so Tri-X at 200 is probably about right. Pushing anything in Rodinal is a recipe for bad results for the same reason.


4

If in doubt about the temperature of your development you can place your tank in a bigger tub of water of the desired temperature. This is easiest done with the plastic ones – Paterson, Jobo & the like. This is usually an overkill for B & W process, but necessary for color. In color process higher temperatures are required, and inconsistency can ...


4

Say I wanted the final result to be a print that displayed only (or all but) the green elements in a color photo. What are some ways I could go about producing it? If you are working with digital images (after scanning your film), you can use the channel mixer. It may take some thought and calculation to figure out what percentages to use for each channel. ...


3

Developing film is a combination of chemical processes. These processes utilize an interaction between the film and a chemical dissolved in a solution. What do you think happens if there is too little of a chemical for the needed reaction? That's simple: the reaction stops. Just about everything in the film developing process is based on providing the ...


3

In case those 10 pushed shots are of great importance, there is a method to develop then without ruining (most of) the unpushed frames. This method requires scissors, a darkroom or changing bag, some basic maths and a dose of luck. Also, this will only work if the pushed frames are consecutive and on one end of the roll. Things you have to know before you ...


3

If I want to push the ISO on my FM2, what is the best setting? There is no best setting, globally...there is only the best setting for the scene at hand. If you can get the aperture and shutter speed values that you like at ISO400 - then there are few reasons left to push the film1. If you need either faster shutter speeds or a more open aperture but can't ...


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