26

There are several ways in which an SD card can go bad. Physical Damage First, cards can be actually physically broken. You can bend them in half pretty easily if you try, but in general they're actually pretty resilient. Many are effectively water-proof even if not marketed that way. I've sent cards through the laundry, and once I dropped one full of ...


20

Well, for one thing, all photos larger than 16 megapixels are resized to 16 MP — so, for many cameras today, that's an immediate, obvious drop in resolution. But all other photos are compressed too, using an optimizing compression algorithm. I don't think Google comes out and says exactly what they do, but it's probably their open source Guetzli algorithm. ...


17

I'm not going to worry too much about how this happens, because hard disks will fail; just like anything else in this world, they aren't perfect. You can't get to a state where you're never going to lose a file. However, you can get to a state where you never lose a photo - you do this by having multiple copies on separate hard drives, including at least ...


17

There are two main causes. The first is data degradation. Bits stored on magnetic media (such as your hard disk) can lose their magnetic orientation over time, corrupting the bit. In harsher conditions (high heat and humidity) the physical media itself can start to degrade. For solid state media such as an SSD, the mechanism is different but the outcome is ...


9

With this kind of situation you need to narrow things down. Transfer the photos to a different computer. If the problem is solved, it's likely your computer. If not, try a different card. If all the photos come out fine, it was the card. If you still have a problem, it could be the cable at fault; try another one. If it's still corrupting, then it's likely ...


6

The best option, and one which I use myself, is two fold. I've done this for a couple years now, and while at times it is tedious, it is the only way I actually feel safe about my LARGE photography library (~40,000 RAW photos, averaging around 23mb each) as well as my growing library of edited photos, photos sized for web publishing, photos sized for various ...


6

Never backup just at home. All backup solutions have some chance of failure including the loss, theft, fire, floods and natural disasters. There should be two copies in two different physical locations at all times. So, even if you make the backups at home, be prepared to take one elsewhere. Mine duplicates go in a safe at the bank. For the highest volumes ...


6

Short Answer : you may be lucky ! As you supposed, it seems that you have indeed experienced some corruption(s) during the transfer. Technically speaking, a JPG is made of tiny blocks of pixels called "MCU block" (Minimum Coded Unit). In the case of your image, the MCU has the size of 16*8 pixels (regular sizes are 8*8, 8*16 and 16*8). As one can see in ...


5

File deletion essentially means removing file entry from file system (file system contains information about all location and size of all files on disc or memory card). If something goes wrong file system may become corrupted, rendering card inaccessible (all the data may be still there, but without filesystem you can't tell where one file begins and another ...


5

In general, if you want to keep your data longer than the 4-5 year average life span of a hard drive, you need at least two copies on two different devices. Ideally, those devices should be in different physical locations. The trick is mostly to have the backups run automatically, so you don't forget it. I recommend Crashplan, it's the simplest and most ...


5

From the Exif Info, The normal photo has exposure 1/60s, ISO 80 and f4.9 without flash, focal length 13.6mm. The purple one has exposure 1/60s, ISO 1000 and f5.9 with flash, focal length 33mm. This picture should have been overexposed by at least 3 stops + flash if you had taken it with the same lighting as the normal picture. Its possible that the ...


5

I had similar issues with images on my Nikon D70. Occasionally the camera showed a 'CHA' error message, images written to the card were corrupt (but could be resurrected by a data recovery tool). As it turned out my camera has contact problems at the CF card slot. Sometimes reinserting the memory card helps, sometimes I have to use contact spray to get my ...


5

I format my card in-camera before every use. I use the USB cable and never take the card out of the camera unless I fill a card on a long shoot/trip. I've never had a problem, but I can't say that's because of my procedure. Seems to be a lot of hearsay about what the correct procedure is :) So here is what some manufacturers have to say. Nikon Memory ...


5

That's not pink — that's magenta. The difference is significant because magenta is the mix of blue and red primaries, with no green. That implies that the green channel information for that part of the file is damaged. But also, it's pretty clear that most of the image is messed up far beyond beyond that. I'd write this one off as not salvageable. If you ...


5

The image was corrupted by random bytes of information being lost in the data transfer. You can tell because each time information is lost, the image shifts (because pixels end up missing as it fills each line). It's also not an even number of pixel information since some of the times that information is lost, it causes the color information to get shifted ...


5

There may not be a definitive answer. Some arguments for using fewer, larger cards: Less card swapping. When using small cards, you could potentially miss the shot because you have to swap cards. Lower chance of user error. If you have a dozen cards then keeping track of formatted cards, used cards, backed-up cards... is a disaster waiting to happen. And ...


5

They are basically throwing processing power at the problem, using very compute intensive approaches that tries out various ways to compress the image within the JPG rules. Processing is something google likely has plenty of, especially as it also saves bandwdith. You can do the same - the software and various services are free or cheap. Your program / ...


4

Looking at the raw file, the JPG preview looks fine, but there is about 1/6th of the RAW image that is blanked out. It could have been a glitch in the camera, an error on the card, or an error in the transfer to your computer. If you still have the image on the card, I'd try to transfer again. Then reformat the card and see if it happens again. If it ...


4

This is a long shot, but if your JPEGs happen to be encoded in progressive mode, then you may be able to salvage a lower resolution version of your corrupted picture(s). Progressive JPEGs are encoded as several incremental "scans". The file begins with a scan that represents the whole image at a very low resolution, each successive scan builds on top of the ...


4

Since neither Windows nor the camera can read the card, I think the most likely scenario is that the changes Windows were about to write to the card were interrupted halfway through. Such interruptions will corrupt a file system for sure, and could happen if you just unplug the card instead of going through the Windows "safely remove hardware and eject ...


4

Based on your description of the problem, it sounds like the card in question may have a bad block that isn't being masked out by the card's controller. Since most flash cards use some type of wear leveling, the problem will only occur each time the controller attempts to access the bad block. If the card is, for example, an 8GB card that is re-formatted ...


4

It most definitely is a image sensor/CCD/CMOS issue. These tend to fail over time due to heat, which could explain why it worked the first couple of months. It also isn't exposing properly (due to faulty CCD) hence the swirls and exposure of half a second. There was a time where they recalled their image sensors/CCDs but it was a while ago. It might be ...


4

If your intention is to modify the JPEG file by changing some bytes inside it, just do the following: convert JPEG to uncompressed BMP change the bytes convert BMP to JPEG


4

What you're seeing is consistent with data corruption in that the preview lo-res jpeg is fine, and that the compressed raw has a number of incorrect or missing bytes causing corruption. The question Why do images get "corrupted"? describes the effect at the file level. Use of a different file format (raw rather than jpeg) will give you different output but ...


4

Try a web search for "Hex editor". There are several around, including some free ones. They can display the values of the bytes making up the file as (ususally) hexadecimal (base 16) values - each 8 bit byte shows as 2 hexadecimal digits. Some may also allow you to display the values as octal (base 8) or binary (base 2). As with most editors, you can search ...


3

One of the things I most love about digital photography over traditional film photography is how easy it is to have a backup. If my house burns down, my slides are gone forever but all of the digital photos are safe. Because of how easy it is to have a backup, and how cheap it is, I have many backups. Primary storage: roughly the most recent year is kept ...


3

The only way to determine the source of this issue is by process of elimination. Some things to try: if you put the card back into the camera, does the camera (preview window) display the images corrupted or correctly? try opening the image with a different application. if you are on a Mac (with OS X Lion) then Finder should be able to preview most RAW file ...


3

Short: Free & marvellous Recuva - File Recovery software from Piriform worked for me when a substantial number of other free and for-$ programs failed to. The program is currently Windows-only but even a hardcore Mac man can probably stoop to using a Windows machine in such dire circumstances :-). Some notes at end or see their website as above. ...


3

If the problem is with the huffman (this is the lossless part of the JPEG compression), then your chances of recovering the image information are really minimal. Huffman, like other forms of entropy coding, minimizes information redundancy in the data stream, ideally to the absolute minimum. This means that there are most likely no "other pieces" of the ...


3

Try converting the files from NEF to DNG with Adobe DNG Converter, and see if CS5 can open the DNG file.


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