26

The "Sunny Sixteen" rule applies to things that are lit by the sun. In the picture you took using the rule, things which are lit directly by the sun are well-exposed i.e. the cut-off tops of the branches, as well as their sunlit side, and the sunlit areas of the nest. The leaves are a bit of a problem, since they are relatively waxy; the parts of the leaves ...


10

I have to be honest, I think the first is better. It's darker, sure, but that's probably more the JPEG conversion settings in the camera than anything. From my perspective, I think you could do a lot more with the first image using RAW data and maybe a marginal lift in exposure. Point is, you didn't clip the highlights with that and it gives you room to work ...


5

Having been in your situation, I can safely say there are no perfect answers. I had an xTi (400D) and was looking to do underwater photography. I ended up deciding it was not worth it to get an underwater enclosure that cost more than the camera itself, so decided to wait until I could get a nicer camera to be worth it. In the interim, I went looking ...


4

Just FYI, Strobist refers to David Hobby's Strobist blog, where most of us learned how to do off-camera flash. If you really want to use this flash off-camera, consider that optical slaving to your 650D's pop-up flash has some limitations. They may not come into play with food photography, but if you end up shooting outdoors on location in bright sunlight, ...


4

As I've tested (took 10 series of shots) the 50mm f1.8, I've come to this result: If the lens starts focusing from the nearest focus point (inner barrel is fully out of the outer barrel), then the image will be very-very front focused. If you set the focus ponint to infinity, and then start autofocusing, then the image will be as I say 98% spot on focused. ...


4

Unfortunately, I can't recommend using a teleconverter with the Tamron 70-200mm f/2.8 at all (Update in 2020: The most recent Tamron SP 70-200mm f/2.8 Di VC G2 takes a TC better than the older Tamron 70-200mm lenses do - it's pretty much the equal of the Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8 l IS II). The lens is pretty good for most of its range, but the weakest image ...


3

Darkness is a matter of exposure. You cannot use the flash because players are too far for it to reach and, if it would, it would probably be disturbing to them. While you can increase exposure or manually set it to get the desired brightness, this will force you to either increase ISO or decrease shutter-speed. Higher ISO means more noise and slower ...


3

The 650D shoots video in MOV format only But don't worry about quality... WMV, AVI and MOV are just container formats and their construction has limited bearing on the encoded contents inside (TIFF also is the same.) That means converting to your preferred container can be done quickly and with no loss of quality. It's just an extra step is all. For any ...


3

If I read all your facts correct (thinks you need and don´t need) there is no real difference for you and 320EX remote control feature is only one which interests you (maybe). So seems to be that you would be happy with this 320EX. BUT if you want do shoot off camera and/or with light modifiers (gels, softbox, … can reduce the effecive power significant) ...


3

This will happen if your lens is set to manual focus (check the AF/MF switch on your lens) or in the case when the lens you're using doesn't support autofocus. A third possibility is that your lens, or the lens mount, has been damaged and is no longer communicating correctly with the camera. Of these, the first is probably by far the most common.


3

I think you have a worse problem than the "failure" of Sunny 16 (as user32334 said, it doesn't apply here)--given the light conditions I don't think that nest can be properly exposed with any settings--there's too much difference between the lit portion and the portion in shadow. I strongly suspect the only way you're getting a good shot is to shade the ...


2

The sunlight in the scene is coming from right. So it is not f/16 but f/11 (f/16 only when sunlight is direct behind you and in front of you subject). So: f/11, ISO 100, Shutter Speed: 1/100 or: f/16, ISO 100, Shutter Speed: 1/50 Both exposures are more correct and closer to your automatic!


2

The sunny 16 rule captures a sunlit scene accurately. It doesn't necessarily capture it as you perceive it or intend it. For example, you can use the sunny 16 rule to take photos of the moon, because it is a sunlit object. But it will appear dark gray, which is in fact its true color. We generally perceive the moon to be brighter, almost white, because ...


2

The ST-E3-RT cannot trigger the D1 directly--the only light that "speaks" the Canon RT radio protocol is the 600EX-RT. And the D1 Air transmitters cannot trigger the built-in RF receiver in the 600EX-RT directly, although you might be able to add an Air Sync to the 600EX-RT and use their system to get TTL from the D1, if that were a priority for you. ...


2

I have the exact same kit as you (T4i/650; 50mm 1.8, 18-55mm). I also have the 430EX II. I would purchase the 430 EX II as it gives you more capability and power. I primarily focus on family pictures and portraits for family and friends, and the 430 EX II with swivel head, etc., is perfect for my needs. I may upgrade to a more powerful flash in the future if ...


2

Based on your description, I'd go with the 430EX II if the price difference is minimal. The main selling point of the 320EX is the video light, if you don't need the LED light on the front, the only reason to get it over the more powerful and capable 430EX II would be cost, but you indicated that the cost is pretty close where you were looking. The "remote ...


2

This will depend heavily on your focus of the dive. Photography Focused If you're diving with the focus of photography, you'll want to start down a path that allows you can scale your equipment. This leads to a DSLR that can operate with underwater lighting, RAW output, customized settings, etc. This housing will be large and you will have to fumble with ...


2

I think that there is a general recommendation to use a teleconverter produced by the same manufaturer as the lens. It will probably have been designed to work with teles of the same brand. You should probably avoid Canon teleconverters, because they have physical dimensions that may be incompatible with the lens. As seen on this picture, the first ...


2

Do I need a different lens to get the faces of the players...some come out dark? You may, you may not. A lot depends on how you've got your camera set and the lighting conditions you're shooting under. A 75-300 III might be sufficient if the field is well-lit, and your issue may simply be that faces are in shadow from placement, and you have to watch for ...


1

It sounds like your adapter was developed earlier than the EOS Rebel T4i/650D. The third party makers of such adapters don't license technology from Canon, they reverse engineer it. If Canon starts using a part of their existing protocol that hasn't been used in the past, reverse engineered third party products sometimes don't work with the new devices. This ...


1

You can use an infrared remote, such as the RC-6 or its generic clones, with either Aperture Priority, Manual, or any other exposure mode with your EOS Rebel T4i/650D. The key considerations are to use the Self Timer drive mode to enable the remote and insure that the camera is either pre-focused manually to the correct subject distance or the selected AF ...


1

When shooting action/sports under the lights at night there's no substitute for a wide aperture. This is especially true in smaller high school stadiums that usually also have dimmer lights. When shooting high school football from the sidelines I find a shutter time of 1/1000 will freeze most player motion unless they are right in front of the camera going ...


1

Okay, first, don't panic. Second, but only slightly thereafter, lock your memory card. That'll prevent accidents. Next, find a different memory card reader, cable, and ideally completely separate computer. It's possible that the images just had a problem in transfer due to some hardware glitch. If they are still damaged, you are probably out of luck. You ...


1

Have you actually had any issues with the 600EX-RT not having enough power to bounce off a high ceiling? In my tests, I've been able to throw light VERY far with it. I've bounced off 20 to 30 foot ceilings with no problems, though I was shooting ISO 1000 or 1250 at the time on my 5D Mark iii. If you need a little more directional light, using something ...


1

Another option may be to invest in more 600EX-RT flashes and mount them together to multiply the power (it would also be possible to fire them on lower power settings to increase recycle speed). This way you would be able to control them all using the ST-E3-RT in the hotshoe. Using more 600EX-RT flashes would also allow more flexibility in lighting setup if ...


1

This is what I do or at least tried and it works. I have a Canon 450D DSLR. I enable mirror lock up in the camera functions. Now on my 3rd party timer remote I set the delay for 10 seconds with say 1 minute exposures (I do fixed tripod astrophotography using a barn door tracker on my tripod and the camera on a ball mount attached to the barn door tracker) I ...


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