26

The "Sunny Sixteen" rule applies to things that are lit by the sun. In the picture you took using the rule, things which are lit directly by the sun are well-exposed i.e. the cut-off tops of the branches, as well as their sunlit side, and the sunlit areas of the nest. The leaves are a bit of a problem, since they are relatively waxy; the parts of the leaves ...


10

I have to be honest, I think the first is better. It's darker, sure, but that's probably more the JPEG conversion settings in the camera than anything. From my perspective, I think you could do a lot more with the first image using RAW data and maybe a marginal lift in exposure. Point is, you didn't clip the highlights with that and it gives you room to work ...


9

Any of the telephoto only zoom lenses in the 70-200mm or 70-300mm range will perform better than so-called "superzooms" that attempt to cover focal lengths all the way from wide angle to the edges of the super-telephoto range. The highest quality telephoto lens in the price range you mentioned is the Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L. It is available for around $650-...


9

At f/1.8 the depth of field is very small - any movement (of subject or camera) between focusing and taking the shot can push the subject out of focus - so you want to take the photo as quickly as possible after focusing and don't use the "focus and recompose" technique - not at f/1.8 The auto-focus on the 50mm f/1.8 is very slow, if the camera is set up to ...


7

It's looking like that the biggest difference is the updated 18-55 kit lens - from the early reviews and comments, it's a non-trivial upgrade over the older EF-S 18-55 f/3.5-5.6 IS II lens, in all of optical quality, usability with filters (due to the non-rotating front element) and the advantages the STM gives for video shooters. Given that a significant ...


6

As much as everyone loves to talk about how sharp the "nifty fifty" is, if you look at the ISO 12233 charts here you see that it is much sharper at f/2.8 than at f/1.8 or f/2. The lens is manually focused using Live View for the test charts. You may not be missing focus as much as you think. Is there an area behind or in front of your target that is in ...


5

Having been in your situation, I can safely say there are no perfect answers. I had an xTi (400D) and was looking to do underwater photography. I ended up deciding it was not worth it to get an underwater enclosure that cost more than the camera itself, so decided to wait until I could get a nicer camera to be worth it. In the interim, I went looking ...


4

Photos taken with digital cameras will, for the most part, show some amount of noise when inspecting them at 100%. The tripod and lenses won't affect the noise because the noise comes from the sensor, something that remains constant regardless of which lens or tripod you shoot with. Generally, you can lower the apparent noise by reducing the ISO but proper ...


4

The focal length is the actual focal length. So 18mm on that body will be sort of like 27mm on a full frame. The answer is very personal, and without knowing you, or what types of photography you'll do, very hard to answer. Personally I don't like the 18-55 + 55-250 combination 18-55 is pretty handy, but having to swap lenses to go beyond 55 is a pain ...


4

I have the 50mm f/1.8 and the 18-135 The 50mm f/1.8 has extremely good image quality but it has 2 very serious disadvantages: The auto-focus is painfully slow, it's so slow you'll have an hard time focusing on running children (at least in indoor lighting). The 50mm will have the field of view of 80mm on a full frame (1.6 crop factor) that's too long for a ...


4

The differences are so minor many review sites are basically copy/pasting their T4i reviews, replacing the pictures, and editing the differences if they're posting reviews of the T5i at all. The new STM kit lens is probably the most significant change, especially for those shooting video as well as stills. From The-Digital-Picture: Here is a list of ...


4

As I've tested (took 10 series of shots) the 50mm f1.8, I've come to this result: If the lens starts focusing from the nearest focus point (inner barrel is fully out of the outer barrel), then the image will be very-very front focused. If you set the focus ponint to infinity, and then start autofocusing, then the image will be as I say 98% spot on focused. ...


4

Just FYI, Strobist refers to David Hobby's Strobist blog, where most of us learned how to do off-camera flash. If you really want to use this flash off-camera, consider that optical slaving to your 650D's pop-up flash has some limitations. They may not come into play with food photography, but if you end up shooting outdoors on location in bright sunlight, ...


4

Unfortunately, I can't recommend using a teleconverter with the Tamron 70-200mm f/2.8 at all (Update in 2020: The most recent Tamron SP 70-200mm f/2.8 Di VC G2 takes a TC better than the older Tamron 70-200mm lenses do - it's pretty much the equal of the Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8 l IS II). The lens is pretty good for most of its range, but the weakest image ...


3

I think it would be the best if you uploaded a few shots to show us what you were shooting and how, I mean distance, angle etc. I had a little problem with Nifty Fifty at the very beginning, then I read a few articles on the Internet. After using this lens for over 3 years now, I can surely say that this lens needs a more special approach than let's say ...


3

Spend $100 on the 50mm F1.8. Take photos with it. Its a nice lens, very inexpensive. If you still think your photos are not sharp, you will know that its you, not the lens. If you like the new photos, then think about spending more on a better lens. I replaced my kit lens with the EFS 17-55 F2.8 and love it. It changed everything about my photos. But its ...


3

It sounds to me like your card is dead or damaged. I recommend that you follow the instructions in the comments to your question and try to recover what you can. Memory cards fail, it does not happen very often for most people, but it does happen. I have had 3 die over the last 10 years. You can check to see if your card has a warranty or guarantee of some ...


3

To use Bulb mode on your T4i, Select Manual <M> exposure mode and move the shutter speed past 30 seconds to bulb. (pp. 113-114 of the T4i Instruction Manual) The simplest way to shoot fireworks with your Rebel T4i is with a wired remote. The Canon RS60 E3 sells at amazon.com for around $22USD. Generic versions are available for about 1/2 that. The ...


3

Fixed aperture is a very good feature that only one of those has. It just makes it easier to meter, control dof, and use fill flash. So go for the tamron. It is even pretty sharp. and super zooms are never a good idea, as they really make you feel disappointed at your DSLR.


3

The 650D shoots video in MOV format only But don't worry about quality... WMV, AVI and MOV are just container formats and their construction has limited bearing on the encoded contents inside (TIFF also is the same.) That means converting to your preferred container can be done quickly and with no loss of quality. It's just an extra step is all. For any ...


3

This will happen if your lens is set to manual focus (check the AF/MF switch on your lens) or in the case when the lens you're using doesn't support autofocus. A third possibility is that your lens, or the lens mount, has been damaged and is no longer communicating correctly with the camera. Of these, the first is probably by far the most common.


3

If I read all your facts correct (thinks you need and don´t need) there is no real difference for you and 320EX remote control feature is only one which interests you (maybe). So seems to be that you would be happy with this 320EX. BUT if you want do shoot off camera and/or with light modifiers (gels, softbox, … can reduce the effecive power significant) ...


3

I think you have a worse problem than the "failure" of Sunny 16 (as user32334 said, it doesn't apply here)--given the light conditions I don't think that nest can be properly exposed with any settings--there's too much difference between the lit portion and the portion in shadow. I strongly suspect the only way you're getting a good shot is to shade the ...


3

Darkness is a matter of exposure. You cannot use the flash because players are too far for it to reach and, if it would, it would probably be disturbing to them. While you can increase exposure or manually set it to get the desired brightness, this will force you to either increase ISO or decrease shutter-speed. Higher ISO means more noise and slower ...


2

This will depend heavily on your focus of the dive. Photography Focused If you're diving with the focus of photography, you'll want to start down a path that allows you can scale your equipment. This leads to a DSLR that can operate with underwater lighting, RAW output, customized settings, etc. This housing will be large and you will have to fumble with ...


2

Visible noise is caused by not having enough light. How noise works You can think about your camera has having a fixed amount of noise (not accurate but close enough to reality to understand how noise works) If you have a totally black picture (like taking a picture with the lens cap on) all you see is the noise, it's visible but has a relatively low ...


2

It's not a guarantee, but a general rule of thumb is that the longer the range of focal lengths, the lower quality the lens. The majority of those lenses have extreme focal ranges. Beyond that, shopping questions are generally considered off topic and this is very much a shopping question.


2

I recently purchased a T4i and looked very closely at the T5i next to it. As far as I could see the bodies were identical. So I don't know what this talk about a new finish is. The rotation mode dial was different in that it spun 360. It was also missing the 'night scene' mode and the 'hdr' mode. I guess I missed the addition of scene mode mentioned ...


2

Yes, you have to set the mode to M and dial the shutter speed past 30s (it will show 'bulb'). You will want some type of remote trigger for this mode. A canon RC-1,5 or 6 is a cheap and reliable IR based remote (I have used the RC-1 for about 7 years and only change the battery once, after about 5-6 years). You enable the remote by switching to the timer ...


2

You mentioned that your main subjects are landscape and architecture, for these 2 you will mostly need the wide lens, specially for architecture, and the Tokina 11-16mm will be great for that use. The lenses you listed are all super zoom lenses and I don't think you'll ever have to use 100mm or more in landscape and architecture photography. The super zoom ...


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