15

The base ISO of all Canon cameras is ISO 100. This is the ISO with the lowest gain, without any in-camera magickry to achieve the setting (like ISO 50, which mucks with the actual exposure settings behind the scenes). There is a lot of conjecture and misunderstanding about Canon's ISO settings because they use a "real/push/pull" model for ISO settings, ...


10

I have used the exact setup you are using. I found that the 2X Teleconverter iii worked wonderfully with the 70-200 f/2.8 IS II on the 5D Mark iii. I actually tested it in far harder conditions (shooting a wedding in a relatively dimly lit gymnasium) and it worked quite well. Particularly since you will be using the shorter focus distance setting, I ...


10

It is not possible to transfer images out of the memory card faster than its maximum read speed. All you need then is a sufficiently fast card reader. With USB 3.0, there is enough bandwidth to exceed the transfer speed of the fastest current Compact Flash and SDXC cards. Lexar claims 500 MB/s top speed which is faster than Gigabit Ethernet (1000 Mb/s = 128 ...


8

According to the guys at Magic Lantern, when you open the SD card door and the light flashes while it accesses the SD card, you should wait until several seconds after the light stops flashing as it is still accessing the card (which is silly, because that light has one job!) or you can cause the camera to lock up and drain the battery.


8

Do you have any other basis for comparison, does this power consumption rate sound expected and acceptable? I see similar results on the 6D: GPS uses a lot of battery power. It also uses battery even when the camera is otherwise idle. Turning off both GPS and WiFi will give you significantly improved battery life. That doesn't mean that GPS isn't still a ...


7

It doesn't look too bad to me. You have to consider that when you're looking at a 5D mkIII image at 100%, that amounts to a considerable enlargement. It's rare to get something really pin sharp at that magnification. The focus point is quite forward so the trees in the centre of the frame are at or near the far limit of the DOF. That combined with the ...


7

MicroSD cards are supported provided you use them with an adapter. The 5D Mk III manual says it can use cards over 128GB capacity so I would assume there is no upper limit.


7

I don't know what it costs to replace a 5D Mark III shutter in the UK. If the work is done by a Canon Service Center in the U.S. it runs around $320 before any discounts, such as CPS (Canon Professional Services) membership, are applied. Any applicable shipping charges would be additional (with most CPS membership levels return shipping is free - with the ...


7

The Canon EOS 5D Mark III has a resolution of 5760 x 3840 pixels, or 22.1 MP. It has a 3:2 (1.5:1) aspect ratio. A2 sized paper is 16.5 x 23.4 inches (420 x 594 mm). It has a 1.414:1 aspect ratio. This means we must either: Leave blank spaces at the top and bottom of the paper to use the full image width on the width of the A2 paper. This would leave us ...


6

The 5D mk2 was released in 2008, the mk3 in 2012, 4 years is a long time in technology. The mk3 is much better, it is better because of 4 years of sensor technology research, the pixel size makes a difference only if everything else is the same - and when you compare a models that have a 4 years difference everything isn't even close to the same. If you ...


6

Is there a simple way of quickly swapping a circular polariser between lenses (of different filter diameters)? Not really. The simple solution is to have a polarizer for each lens so you don't have to swap them in difficult conditions. The cost-effective solution is to do as you are currently doing and use step down rings. Magnetic filter holders and ...


6

I have a 6D and a 5D Mark IV. I haven't used the 5D enough to profile its battery life, but in my experience with the 6D, GPS causes maybe 15% battery drain per day. And with the 5D Mark IV, it should use much less, assuming you take advantage of the new "mode 2" behavior that turns GPS completely off when you switch off the camera. So in a three-hour ...


5

I am a 5D Mark III user, and make frequent use of the spot-AF mode as you describe. To switch between AF modes on the 5D Mark III the first thing is: DO NOT BE IN AUTO MODE (The green one on the dial). This will automatically select all 61 points as potential AF points and you can't change it. Use P/Av/Tv or M mode. In your settings there you can choose ...


5

I don't think there is a way to do it automatically outside of writing your own plugin and I'm actually not even 100% sure that that would do it. For partially manual options though, use the rating filter on the previous import collection, set it to less than or equal to no stars and you will only have the unrated photos listed. Then select them all and ...


5

The blur can be measured by converting to XYZ colorspace and zooming into a tree trunk with a bright sky as the background. You then measure the brightness profile accross the rapid change in brightness (make sure you pick an area with small gradient in the direction parallel to the tree trunk). I then used this method to estimate the blur. Since the image ...


5

The Official Canon 5D Mark III website says: Recording Media CF Cards (Type I); Compatible with UDMA CF cards; SD, SDHC, and SDXC Memory Cards Note: No microSD is supported unless you use a microSD-to-SD adapter. It's also worthwhile to mention, a MicroSD-to-SD adapter would not bring any loss of performance (either in writing or reading speeds) since the ...


5

I have used the Xume adapters. Awhile back I standardized on 77mm filters, and also found myself swapping them around all the time. I thought the Xume would be a perfect solution. When I bought them, they did not have a dedicated Xume-compatible lens cap, so I "made my own" with old-school screw-on/off caps and dedicated Xume rings for them. I also put Xume ...


5

AI (Auto-Intelligent) Focus (It is an uppercase "i", not a lowercase "L" or a numeral "1") is one of those things that sounds good in theory but often doesn't work well in practice. Sometimes it does, but at other times it doesn't. I prefer to set my camera to either One Shot or AI Servo, rather than splitting the difference with AI Focus that starts in One ...


4

I'm pretty sure the main purpose of the 6x4 grid is for general purpose horizontal and vertical alignment, especially for images symmetric about the horizontal or vertical centre. While we're often told to get away from putting a major feature precisely in the centre of the frame (and the 3x3 or a golden ratio helps to guide this), there are many times ...


4

It is quite possible that each camera performs better in some specific low light situations than the other, and I think that is the case with these two specific cameras. Low light performance is a pretty general term. Usually when someone talks about low light performance they are talking about how much or how little noise is present in an image shot in ...


4

From the info you've provided, it sounds like you're after a pretty general purpose lens, so I'd suggest any of the 'standard' full-frame zoom lenses: Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L II (wider aperture for narrow depth-of-field) Canon 24-70mm f/4L IS (also has basic macro capabilities) Canon 24-105mm f/4L IS (longer zoom range) Canon 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS (...


4

According to page 170 of the manual the only way to have it automatically do it on its own is to remote/timer setting with 2 second or 10 second timer. This will result in all three shots taken with one press. Otherwise, you have to hold down in continuous modes or press three times in single shot modes.


4

Unless it had been included in a recent firmware update for the EOS 5D Mark III, the only Canon model (as of June, 2014) capable of applying Exposure Compensation to Auto ISO in M exposure mode is the EOS 1D X. That capability was not included in the original firmware but was added by a relatively recent update. Since this answer was written, several new ...


4

You see the curtain of your camera: nice, no? If you want to avoid that with mark III , use a shutter speed lower than 1/200s You could use high flash speed sync, but I am quite sure that your flash can't use that, so with this flash, your only solution will be under 1/200s or use a ND filter to have less light entering your lens Check this tutorial on ...


4

The majority of cameras use the JPEG preview (with picture styles applied) embedded in a RAW file as the source data for the histogram and blinkies. In other words, it's just using what's sent to your LCD display for review. This is probably due to limited processor load and data paths, and is a cause for complaint among photographers--that the data they're ...


4

The "dashed circle" you refer to is, according to page 23 of the manual (February 2013 edition), the "Spot metering circle". (However, as this circle certainly covers much more than the 1.5% of the viewfinder the spot-meter covers, I see it as being more indicative of the 6.2% coverage of "Partial metering" — see pages 169 and 170 of the manual.) If you ...


3

If you've installed ML correctly, the trash button activates the Magic Lantern menus. If you go into the Shoot menu, you'll find the Intervalometer settings. The Func button then lets you modify the intervalometer settings. That will let you take stills at set intervals, which you can then combine into a timelapse video in post processing.


3

Basically you get a longer lens without the cost, weight or change in minimum focal length. Sounds too good to be true right? Well these things are great. I have the Canon 1.4 teleconverter and it's great for those situations where your not in the lowest light and don't need the 2 or 3 f stops of speed and short DOF that the larger f 2.8 will produce. ...


3

Hard to answer because we do not know many things about you & your setup. However I would settle down to Tamron 24-70mm f/2.8 because Canon 24-70 f/2.8 II (the main competitor) is much more expensive and doesn't provide Image Stabilizer (IS). I strongly suspect that the snapshots of your toddler requires this as well as f/2.8 :). Besides that, a '...


3

So the only solution appears to be: Install Exiftool (Free) Open Terminal and navigate to the directory containing the image(s): For a single image called BD3A6291.CR2 with dimensions of 5760 x 3840 execute: exiftool BD3A6291.CR2 -AspectFrame="0 0 0 0" -DefaultCropOrigin="" -DefaultCropSize="" -CroppedImageWidth="5760" -CroppedImageHeight="3840"


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