What you are probably looking for is a 10-stop ND filter. Lee and Hitech make large square filters - Lee calls theirs the "big stopper". B+W make a screw-in version that is less expensive.
These will roughly allow for 1000 times the exposure. So instead of 1/250th of a second, you can expose for 1000 * 1/250 = 4 seconds.
If you want even longer ...
Yes you can, but as far as I know, you cannot do it with the 622C alone. You can definitely do it with the addition of a 622C TX. I took a couple of my daughter doing exactly what you want to do.
There is a description of how I did it with the photos on Flickr.
The approximate manual camera setting is likely achieved using the tried and true “sunny 16 rule”.
Shutter speed is 1/ISO with the aperture set to f/16. Since you have chosen ISO 100, the exposure, according to this rule of thumb is 1/100 (likely you don’t have the 1/100 so we set the shutter @ 1/125 of a second @ f/16. You have chosen to set the aperture at ...
The short answer is that your ND filter is not strong enough.
As Alan Marcus's answer points out, according to the Sunny 16 rule, in bright daylight at ƒ/16, you will get a nominally-correct exposure when your shutter speed is the inverse of your ISO (i.e., at ISO 100, you should set the shutter to 1/100 s).
Setting the aperture at ƒ/22 buys you an ...
Regarding Bulb Mode
If you use a wired remote there is generally not a time limit regarding the length of an exposure using bulb mode with most current DSLRs. Pressing the button, halfway or fully, on a wired remote is pretty much identical to pressing the camera's shutter button (except you don't physically touch the camera).
There have been some DSLRs (e....
Short: In most cases "BULB" is a speed setting accessible only in MANUAL mode so you will have full control of aperture and ISO settings.
"Bulb" mode is the ultimate manual mode.
Bulb is accessible in Manual mode and MAY be accessible in Shutter-speed priority mode.
It COULD have a setting of its own but is usually at the low end of the shutter ...
Most of the cameras that I know have separate Bulb mode and shutter priority, the Bulb can be in the manual mode and you can get it by increasing the shutter speed till you get bulb (Like in some Canon models). But it's not reasonable to make it attached with the shutter priority mode because the camera wouldn't know in advance how long you are going to open ...
Take a look at page 100 of the manual. It explains how to use Bulb mode.
Put the camera into Manual(M) mode using the top dial, then turn the dial to the left to select BULB.
You can also use an intervalometer to capture long exposures of varying times more accurately then in the bulb mode.
You need an ND filter to get long exposures in daylight as others have noted.
However this will probably still not give you the results you need. Long exposure shots of cars work at night time because the car head/tail lights are brighter than anything else in the scene.
During the day all you will get with a long exposure shot of cars going by is a muddy ...
Now that I know for sure... :)
The ML-3 can do bulb mode. Set the camera to bulb and the remote to continuous (C) and as long as you hold the button (and maintain IR connection) the shutter should remain open. See this Photography Life article for some info.
For completeness, the ML-L3 IR remote (the other I asked you about) can also do bulb on supported ...
You can use a wired remote release that has a built in intervalometer, such as this fairly inexpensive one or this one. Regardless of the brand name stamped on them, they all seem to be made identically.
You then set the camera to Bulb and let the timer in the remote open and close the shutter.
You can, for very little money, build your own wired remote control, eg. by following these instructions, or any others that a google search for "canon diy remote" brings up. This remote has a momentary action switch, and a two way switch for arbitrarily long exposures.
I successfully made such a remote with my own two left hands.
You don't need to buy a wireless remote — you can buy a wired remote. For just a trigger button with a lock (to hold the button down), you can find 3rd party wired shutter releases for under $10 US, such as from Vivitar, Pixel, Vello, and other brands.
Generally you should use a remote shutter release to hold the shutter open for a prolonged period. This also prevents camera-shake that is usually associated with touching the camera while taking a long exposure.
Several options are available from simple lockable switches to complex intervalometers.
Each have their own advantages but to get started a cheap ...
Bulb mode holds the shutter open until you close it (or allow it to close). As you said, hold the shutter release down, or use a wireless remote. If you want more precise timing, something like TriggerTrap is what you want.
Because it always worked that way. Considering that the mode was mainly for long-duration photography a couple of jiggles at each end of the exposure would not have been noticeable.
The word comes from the day shutters were operated by squeezing a rubber bulb - the shutter is open as long as you keep squeezing. Another "because it's always been that way" ...
If your hands are not particularly shaky, you may actually get less camera shake from holding down the shutter than you would by releasing it and pressing it again.
Basically, with the hold-down method, the possible sources of camera shake will be:
two small bumps from slightly moving your finger to press and release the shutter button,
motion of the ...
The canon 760D has bulb function that you have to hold down, so if I want to do a long exposure I have a wired remote, Shoot RS- 60E3 Wired Remote £3.59, that will lock open the shutter until you release it, if you go back and press the shutter button to close the shutter you could move the camera and spoil your shot.
Bulb mode allows you to control when the exposure starts and finishes, which means that you control the shutter-speed. Together with ISO and Aperture, you still need to balance the 3 parameters and get a proper exposure. See Exposure Triangle if you are not familiar with the concept.
To be clear, you do not reduce the shutter-speed to bulb. You take control ...
If pulling the cord of the RS60-E3 out of the camera jack solves the problem then the problem is not in the camera, it is with the RS60-E3.
What happens if you immediately plug the cord back in? Does the shutter open back up for another exposure? It sounds like the shutter button is just getting stuck and takes a while to fully release. If you only recently ...
What's the minimum exposure time that can be achieved in bulb mode?
Technically, the minimum exposure time is probably limited by the speed that a person can press and release the shutter button (or remote shutter release). I assume this is somewhere on the order of 0.1 seconds (1/10 shutter speed) or so. However, this is highly variable and difficult to ...
Yea... you can check out ebay or any local shop that sells camera equipment. You get wired remotes with a display screen that lets u take extremely long exposures (ranging from few seconds to 99 hours). These are best for exposures. Specially long ones. I take milky way shots so i use this remote to avoid any shake in my images.
You can use the time exposure mode as long as you want - at least, until your power source is exhausted. You'll gradually get more noise as the shutter is open longer, from the sensor heating up, so it's seldom done to such extremes. (In the film camera days, very very long exposures, while uncommon, were done much more often than they are done today, e.g. ...
It does not.
Once in BULB, no automatic exposure parameter applies. Bulb is found in Manual mode on the vast majority of cameras. On most others it is a selectable shutter-speed in Manual mode.
When you can select it in another mode, then the camera uses defaults. Actually, on the two cameras I know that accept Bulb in shutter-priority, the exposure time ...
In addition to what dpollitt wrote about using Bulb mode, you may want to consider buying a remote control/shutter release.
It looks like the Canon RS-60E3 will work with the EOS 600D, but there are aftermarket variants as well, and you should double-check compatibility to be certain. The specific model number Canon unit will almost certainly be listed in ...
Not yet. CHDK (the Canon Hack Development Kit) is working on a port for the SX50, but according to their website, it's in very early alpha right now, so if you don't know your way around the camera yet, you don't want to mess with it. However, it will probably be available eventually.
Here is the link to the SX50 on the CHDK website, http://chdk.wikia.com/...