9

Recently I went to Korea for holiday. I don't want to carry my 580EXII due to the weight so I was looking for a cheap, good and small flash. The flash that I got was the 270EXII. It costs about HK$980 ( US$125 ) You did not mention you are planning to use the flash in a studio or outdoor or travel, so I am going to share my experience using it as a travel ...


8

Some flashes do have a built in bounce card, a little white card in the flash head. You could pop it up so a bit of the light will fill in the shadows under the eyes. When your flashes does not have a bounce card, you could make such a card yourself. diy flash card


7

You need to think about the direction of the light when you bounce. Bouncing isn't just about pointing the flash up, or up and forward. It's about picking the direction of your light. If you're bouncing, you have to stop thinking of the flash as your light source, and think of the reflecting surface your flash is pointed at as your light source. In other ...


5

This is a known bug with Yongnuo flashes (notably the YN-685's predecessors, the YN-568EX and YN-568EX II). TTL tends to be inaccurate and will underexpose unless you switch the metering mode from Evaluative to Average (see: this DPReview discussion, where one person claims Yongnuo support themselves suggested switching to Average metering). This is, ...


4

Bouncing is not the only option. It creates strong shadow under the chin, it is in fact much better than straight-on flash, but there are other alternatives. Try to find a white wall or a white curtain, or a relatively white surface would do. For me, I consider bouncing off a white wall a much better option than bouncing off a white ceiling. The light will ...


3

These are a few options you could try: Is flash required? Will there be enough ambient light in the room so you can get away with a wider aperture/higher ISO? Use the subject to hide the reflection. When composing your shot, make sure that they are directly in line between the window and the flash, so when it goes off it won't be seen. Purposefully shoot so ...


2

Broadly, you want something that bounces part of the light forward while also bouncing some off the ceiling. Personally, I use either the built in bounce card on my 600EX-RT or I use the Lumiquest QuickBounce that has a set of doors you can open to reflect about 20% of the light forward while bouncing the rest off the ceiling. The bounce card is normally ...


2

I have had great success bouncing my flash (also an SB-700) off a piece of white foam core poster board, say 36"x48". These usually cost about $4 if purchased individually. They diffuse light from a flash excellently and also can give a very nice glint in the eyes of your subject. You may be able to hold it yourself, have an assistant do so, or prop it up ...


2

By bouncing the light, you are trying to move the light source off the camera. Since the walls and ceiling are not cooperating, you'll have to actually move the SB700 off the camera. You can get a TTL cable for about $20. You then need something to hold the strobe. The cheapest is to put the flash on a monopole and have a helper hold it as you walk around.


2

In addition to what xiota suggests, you need to consider how the inverse square law applies here (What is the inverse-square law, and how does it apply to lighting for photography?). If you were forced to only bounce the light off the ceiling, then to even out the exposure from top to bottom, you'd need to increase the total distance the light has to travel ...


2

In addition to the light falloff across the frame, there are some light-dark bands, possibly caused by flickering artificial lights? Options to consider: Reduce shutter speed or use sync settings on camera to eliminate banding. Use diffuser in addition to bouce. Use the bounce card on your flash. Change the angle of bounce. (See inkista's answer.) Try ...


1

At 1/2 a second the odd bar of exposure is not visible. The images looks bright enough but it predictably blurry. I tested 1/40 and 1/80 also. At these speeds the bar is not visible but the images are very underexposed. This pretty much confirms that your problem is in the timing. I would guess that your camera uses a shutter that opens from top to bottom, ...


1

Why don't you want to bounce the flash against the ceiling? Because the ceiling is dark, too high or there is no ceiling? In such a situation, I think MagBounce or an umbrella is your best option, although it's not an exact replica, as the light is not coming from above. I have considered purchasing such a MagBounce modifier. A flash stand that is as high ...


1

Which aspect are you trying to reproduce? The light from above? You can bounce light off anything, so any large white (or silver, or whatever color you prefer) thing can be held off camera and have the flash pointed at it. You can hold a large white card or similar reflector above the camera and use it to bounce the flash onto the scene. Probably awkward to ...


1

Check to see if the venue has shades they could temporarily pull down behind them (or curtains to pull closed) to help prevent a hot spot. Otherwise, you could opt for bringing your own backdrop that can easily fit in the tight quarters behind them...


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