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30

You need a lens. It's probably possible to persuade the camera to expose the sensor without a lens on it, but nothing would be in any sort of focus whatsoever. As an aside, if you're asking this kind of basic question about cameras, I'd question whether a full-frame SLR like the D750 is the right choice. You'll end up spending a lot more on your equipment (...


29

No Canon EOS body needs AF motors because every single Canon EF lens released since the EOS system was introduced since 1987 has a focus motor in the lens. Thus no Canon EOS camera has ever had a need for a focus motor in the body. There are a few manual focus lenses in the EOS system, but they are clearly designated as such by not being named as an EF lens:...


27

You need to upgrade your camera when, and only when, you need a camera that can do something in particular that your current camera can not. This is not only true for your camera body but for your lenses and any other accessories that you might need in order to produce a photo you desire. The specific reasons for upgrading a camera body can be as varied as ...


25

First: please recognize that despite what you may read on click-hungry review sites or fan-fueled forums, every DSLR and mid-to-higher range mirrorless camera on the market will be stellar for the purposes described. Any differences are details — every option is an A and it's then down to arguing over A+ or A++, as well as subjective factors or very ...


25

Short answer because there are many good explanations already: The brightest part of your picture is the background. The brightest part of the second picture is the subject.


21

Weather Sealing is protection of the internal parts of a camera from external influences such as moisture, dust, and humidity. The degree of this weather sealing varies between manufacturers and also within models by each manufacturer. The protection is provided by both rubber sealing with silicon rings and gaskets as well as design considerations such as ...


17

Magnesium alloy is one of the most preferred material used in DSLR Bodies, Laptops and other Gadgets. It is a mixture of Magnesium and alloy which is often aluminum, zinc, copper, silicon, zirconium and other minerals, and to answer your question why not aluminum? Well, not only aluminum but a combination of the said minerals. This mineral is also used in ...


16

The diaphragm is not at the back of the lens but in between optical elements. Forcing it to be at the back would be severely restrictive in terms of lens design and wide-angle lenses would become impossible on most a sensor-size and flange distance combinations.


16

I believe this is for the simple reason that many people buying "pro" bodies will have been DSLR/SLR customers previously and will thus have an existing lens collection so are unlikely to need as many different options in terms of bundled lenses. The digital rebel end of the market is still capturing new DSLR customers who are upgrading from non-...


15

Any modern DSLR will be just fine, you don't have to invest too much in the camera body (maybe not get the lowest-end model, but the second-lowest-end model is usually quite nice and will do everything an amateur will need for at least a few years - for Canon this is the 650D/T4i, I don't know the model numbers for other brands). Also, the "bad" kit lenses ...


15

Canon So far what we know based on ML work DRYOS version 2.3, release #0023 5Dm2 500d/T1i 50D DRYOS version 2.3, release #0039 7D 1Dm4 DRYOS version 2.3, release #0043 550d/T2i DRYOS version 2.3, release #0044 or #0049 5dm3 EOS M DRYOS version 2.3, release #0047 60D 600D/T3i 1100D/T3 I'm generalizing but I see in Canon P&S they tend to ...


15

I don't know what specific model rotary wheel Nikon used in that camera, but moving it fast shouldn't cause any excessive wear. These rotary wheels are usually just rather simple mechanical switches. There are usually two separate switches. Each goes thru one complete cycle each detent, but the two are off from each other by 1/4 cycle. The fancy name for ...


15

No Canon EOS camera has an in-body focus motor. Canon's lens mount is 100% electric, there is no mechanical linkage. (Some mounts e.g. Pentax have a mechanical link for the aperture too, for some lenses). The EF designation of Canon's lenses stands for Electro-Focus - in other words, the focus is driven electronically. Each lens has a built in motor. There ...


15

There is an additional element not taken into account in other answers, the color grading. First, let us compare the two histograms. Here is the kitty one. And here is your photo's As you can see, the kitty's one, even if there are zones that are clearly on a dark shadow, like behind the trunks you do not have any black. This is perceived as a higher ...


13

Advantages/Disadvantages of electronic viewfinders have been discussed in another question for completeness: Optical TTL viewfinders are pretty much as sharp as the lens (with small losses for the focus screen and prism). Electronic viewfinders have fixed resolution, which is currently lower than OVFs. OVFs update in realtime, EVFs have a fixed latency and ...


13

It's actually pretty similar except that they changed numbering when they run out of digits in some series. For the current lineup: One-digit DSLRs are top-of-the-line full-frame cameras. The higher the number the newer. So D4 is newer than D3. There are sometimes variants such as D3S which is specialized for low-light and D3X which is specialized for high-...


13

Canon lists the body-only mass of the 60D at 675 grams and the 600D at 515 grams. These numbers are without batteries. Include the batteries and the 60D is the 755g you quote in your question, but the 600D is only 540g. The 60D chassis is polycarbonate resin (plastic) with glass fiber on an aluminum chassis and moderately weather sealed. The 600D chassis is ...


13

No question: adding an external flash. See previous question Prime lens or flash: which upgrade will most improve baby photos?, which covers some of this. A flash can freeze motion, and makes it easy to get enough depth of field to get the whole scene in focus. And when you can move the flash off camera, you can create nice light where it doesn't exist ...


13

Pros of using an EVF as opposed to the rear LCD screen: It is easier to see in direct sunlight. Holding the camera to the eye increases stability and comfort (especially with heavier lenses). EVFs offers diopter correction so users don't need to wear eyeglasses.


12

You are actually getting it wrong! It is the lenses which you would probably have with you for years maybe even decades. The body you will keep upgrading. My suggestion would be getting a decent enough body and invest on Lenses. If you are starting getting a mid level camera with the kit lens. And for a start get the 50mm prime. The kit lens is good enough ...


12

Yes, it's possible to capture some kind of images without a lens, but it's not useful. It's like a bike without tires. It's possible to use it to transport yourself some distance, but it's not anything that you would call riding a bike.


12

When you need to. That is the one and only time you need to think about it. If the answer to one or more of these questions is a Yes, then you may want to consider an upgrade... Do you need a shallower depth of field? Do you need a bazillion megapixels? Do you want to use old or specific lenses that require full frame? Is your viewfinder too small? ...


12

You should only upgrade when you need to. Chances are good you won't wait that long or be that sensible. ;) So, basically, to me, it comes down to a few "tipping points" as to when "upgrading" (more realistically you may be sidegrading [e.g., crop to full frame], or expanding [e.g., adding mirrorless to a dSLR rather than replacing it]) has been worth it ...


12

I already have a Nikon D5200 and I I tried so much to get a clear view of the sky and it didn't work so much. The camera you have is a fine one to start with. You should spend some time working on technique before you worry about switching to a different camera. Astrophotography is all about capturing tiny amounts of light compared to daytime photography, ...


11

I followed other's suggestions (wipedown, etc.). Additionally, I put it in a box with a small container of baking soda for a couple of days. Seemed to do the trick.


10

You want a "body cap". Specifically the Nikon BF-1A or BF-1B, or a generic equivalent. http://www.nikonusa.com/en/nikon-products/product/cap-cover/bf-1b-body-cap.html


10

The second photo is much sharper than the first. This is probably a combination of: A sharper lens. The examples I've seen of the Tamron 70-300mm f/4-5.6 Di LD are not sharp enough to produce the second photo, even when perfect technique is used. Cheap 70-300mm zoom lenses, such as your Tamron, are almost universally softest at 300mm compared to other ...


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