18

I really need to know quick so I can return the package if they can't be used. I don't think you got ripped off, exactly. If the bundle you bought cost about the same as the T5i kit sold by Canon, then you're fine. 3rd party sellers often try to sweeten the deal to attract your business by throwing in a bunch of extras; if you never use them but they didn't ...


16

There are no reasonable options that will extend an iPhone to take good wildlife photos at that range. That's really quite far away. The cameras in phones today are technological marvels, but because they are so small, they have to make compromises, and they're optimized for the kind of family scene or social photo situation in which people normally take ...


12

I think the quality of most of the stuff you are getting in that first kit is dubious. You don't need the UV or FLD filters. The polarising filter is probably a very cheap one. The tabletop tripod and flash look like junk. The wide angle and telephoto "lenses" are not lenses. They are screw-on adapters. They won't give you good quality shots. See more ...


12

In addition to filter diameter, you need to specify the thread pitch, the linear (axial) distance the filter, screw, etc. travels for one (or more) full rotations of the thread. For SAE (or SAE-derived) threads, the pitch is usually specified in number of threads per inch. For example, the 1/4"–20 tripod mount and screw have a 20 thread-per-inch (TPI) ...


11

Those 'AF' lenses attach to the front of the 18-55 EF-S lens, not directly to the camera. They modify the behaviour of the original lens. They are not true wide angle or telephoto lenses, they're modifiers. I've never used them and can't comment on whether they are any use, or any good, but they should at least fit. There's more information in this ...


11

There's already something that has been invented to collect light for photographs. We call them lenses. In order to collect more light, the front element of the lens must be larger for the same focal length, or have a wider angle of view for the same entrance pupil diameter.


10

To get good detail at 60-100 yards with a phone will almost require a small telescope with a phone adapter on the eyepiece end of the telescope. If your husband already has a nice spotting scope (or high quality pair of binoculars) for hunting or target shooting, you'd probably get better results by purchasing an adapter that holds the phone to the eyepiece ...


9

A diopter lens* like this is really only supposed to work at VERY close distances, which your unmodified phone or camera lens won't focus to (otherwise, there is no need to use a diopter). From the picture, it looks like you are holding the camera a two feet or more away from the subject - the phone can likely focus on that just fine without a diopter. Try ...


9

They are gels for coloring the flash. Used for creative effect or to color match the ambient lighting. CTO (color temp orange) is for matching the flash to incandescent lights or sunrise/sunset. CTB (blue) is for matching with cooler sources (cool LED's, shade, etc)... it was originally intended to shift tungsten sources to daylight so it's not used for ...


7

As you edited your question it gives me more room. The same as a parabolic mic, any mirror lens do the exact same thing. It takes parallel rays coming from a distance, and focus them on a smaller spot... the focus point. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Catadioptric_system#Photographic_catadioptric_lenses https://www.google.com/search?q=mirror+lens Ever heard ...


6

These are add-on lenses that mount to the front of your 18-55 allowing for wider or narrower view at the expense of optical quality and practicality. Your de luxe package contains lots of the lowest quality junk that you will probably find useless or inferior. If you can still revert your purchasing decision, I'd suggest that you buy just the camera body ...


6

It's called the foot — the thing that goes into a shoe. You can find this in [ISO 518:2006], the standard which describes the... standard... hot shoe. It's not, however, defined there — it's just basically used as if everyone knows what it means. (Which, I guess, we do.) The dimensions given in Figures 1 and 2 are basic for the solid shoe. When an ...


5

Everything you need to know you can find at Nikon's site for each of those lenses. AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR II Filter size: 52mm (same for lens cap) Hood: HB-69 Bayonet Lens Hood AF-S DX NIKKOR 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED VR II Filter size: 52mm (same for lens cap) Hood: HB-37 Bayonet Lens Hood


5

It's for cameras that do not have a PC sync port so that they're able to fire strobes that do have one, common in professional lighting equipment. So, in this realm, the PC means "Prontor/Compur" and that is (becoming "was") the standard port used by cameras to trigger off-camera strobes over a cabled connection. This has, slowly, started to be replaced by 3....


5

Some comparisons: FD-1 is compatible with only TG-4 (Firmware update is required) and the TG-5. The shooting distance is 2 - 30 cm and is usable underwater. LG-1 is compatible TG-5, TG-4, TG-3, TG-2, TG-1. The shooting distance is 1 - 10 cm and is not usable underwater. A interesting Olympus website is: http://cameras.olympus.com/tg4fd1review/en/ This ...


4

For normal lighting, yes. For bizzare or novel light, no. "Normal" means sunlight or incandescent lighting, or other lights that try to immitate that (since it's what our eyes work with). Poor "color rendering index" lamps will be lacking but that's how it looked in person too! For odd colored lights, you need more data points to know just what is ...


4

If you don't have it yet, get the original lens hood. It will protect the lens and improve image quality.


4

This microphone mounts on your camera's hot shoe (which is usually used for add-on flash units). If your camera does not have a hot shoe for external flash, and you said you have no problem using adhesive to mount your microphone to your camera, you can get a cold shoe flash mount, which is just the physical "square slot" mount without electrical ...


3

The material most soft shutter release buttons are made of is not the reason they are called such. Many, including this one and this one, are made from metal or other rigid materials. The reason they are so called is because some users feel the larger size and raised position of the button compared to the typical small shutter release button on classically ...


3

What you describe is usually referred to as a lens skirt if made from cloth or a rubber lens hood when made from - you guessed it - rubber.


3

Try a hand strap. These vary in price from $10 to $100, and similarly in construction and comfort, but the concept is the same: attaches to your camera (either by the normal strap lugs, via the tripod screw, or occasionally in some specialized way), and then you wrap your hand securely through. It's not just like those little wrist straps that come with a ...


3

Depends on what type of panos you're shooting. The Panamatic doesn't rotate the lens around the no-parallax point which means it's probably not good for panos in smaller spaces (i.e., indoors) where parallax may cause stitching errors. And it does not allow for rotation in pitch, like a two-arm pano head will, so it's probably not good for 360x180 panoramas ...


3

If you sacrifice the clunky easy release, and bring the light close to the ball point (it is tall enough as it is), you can use Polymorph to fashion a holder for it. You put it in boiled water and once it is transparent you can shape it in your hands, with tools, colour it with dyes (knead it into the material), and when it is dry, you can drill in it, so ...


3

Are there standard lens or rather mirror systems for doing this? There are stereoscopic lenses that let you take a single exposure with right and left images at once. One example is the Loreo stereoscopic lens: There are many other similar devices that are or were made for a variety of cameras. I'm not aware of an optical attachment that lets you take the ...


3

Aftermarket eye cups are available for many camera models that replace the supplied eyecup with a larger cup that fits the face of the user. Here is one made for the Canon 5d and 5D Mark II as well as other Canon cameras that have an 18mm eyepiece slot. There are also versions made a bit larger for people who wear eyeglasses. Similar items are also ...


3

What would make such a device impractical to use? The failure rate of the flexprint would likely be fairly poor. The exteriors of cameras and lenses take a lot of punishment. Flexes tend to be very fragile. That's why they are often the most frequent thing damaged when a lens is disassembled to repair some other issue - not only by those who do not know ...


3

There's no substitute for getting a good lens. Any light gathering tricks that can be implemented without ruining image quality are already built into good lenses. A "light-gathering" device that attaches to the front of a lens is a wide-angle conversion lens. As in the name, they change the field of view. They also usually significantly degrade image ...


3

Those are coloured filters to put in front of the flash, simply to change the colour of the light. There is really not much more to it. In the film days, it could however make sense to e.g. use a yellow filter on the flash if you used colour film balanced for tungsten or indoor lighting. Flashes have colour temperatures similar to daylight and if using a ...


2

So i ended up creating my own version Using a few scrap parts i had lying about. I salvaged a clamp from an old compact/collapsible scooter i used to have, An offcut of aluminum piping and 2x "L Brackets". Plus a couple of nuts and bolts and it all fits together quite well. The clamp means i can release it by hand without need for tools which is an ...


2

You could use a hot shoe mic holder, e.g. this one (no affiliation). They usually don't allow fine-tuning the angle though. As small-batch items, you can expect to pay more than you'd have thought.


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