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21

My antique wooden Kodak™ day-light loader (ca. 1905) was made with a removable spool of thin (now quite brittle) perforated celluloid with raised rubber edges. The film was sandwiched between the layers of the roll. The celluloid strip was wide enough to accommodate all sizes from miniature to very wide 128 (2½" wide!). The roll of film was wound inside ...


17

That depends on the type of camera. I used to have a Fuji auto-loading camera, that would spool the entire film out of the canister first and then every taken photo back into the relative safety of the canister. I'm sure there are other brands that do the same. While this is a nice feature, it does not work to your advantage in this particular case. I would ...


14

The Nikon FG-20 has an electronic shutter, which will not work properly if no battery is inserted. You can, with limited capabilities, still use the camera without a battery. Light metereing will of course not work, but the shutter speeds are also restricted to B and a mechanically controlled 1/90s indicated as 'M90' on the speed dial. Unfortunately, the ...


12

You might look at the Wikipedia Photography Technology timeline. A few key points from that reference: 1909 – Kodak produces 35 mm motion picture film on an acetate (less flammable) base 1913 - Kodak introduces panchromatic film (approximating the color sensitivity of the eye - older emulsions were not very sensitive to red light). 1925 - These innovations ...


11

One of the users on Photo.net is a chemical engineer who worked at Kodak for ~30 years. He posted the following information in a thread over there about Life expectancy for refrigerated film: In all cases where we are using film past its expiration date, the only safe approach is to try a roll OF EACH PRODUCT and evaluate it before shooting the rest ...


11

Usually, it does not affect or limit the aperture or shutter speed at all. Rather, it tells the exposure meter where the center is. In some ways, it's exactly like exposure compensation dials. If the camera has a program mode, it's essential information for getting exposure right. If it doesn't, like the Pentax K1000, it just shifts the exposure needle — if ...


11

This is common beginner mistake. You are fortunate that you did it in the first few shots of the roll. Only the film that is outside of the canister will have been exposed to daylight ( ruined ) when you opened the camera. So any film inside the canister will be fine. You use the little black nub on the end of the canister to roll the film back into the ...


10

It depends on the specific camera. The Pentax K1000, for example, only requires the battery for metering, but everything else is mechanical. On your camera, shutter timing is electronic and requires a battery — but according to the manual there is a special setting M90 which provides a 1/90th of a second shutter speed which is all mechanical and can be used ...


8

There are a couple of considerations here... When Kodak Vision3 500T is used for stills photography, very often it has been pre-treated to remove the RemJet anti-halation layer, to make it compatible with the standard C-41 process. This process effectively increases the sensitivity of the film to ISO 800. CineStill 800T is Vision3 500T with the RemJet layer ...


6

The function of an ISO setting completely depends on the camera: Fully manual, no meter camera (Early rangefinders/TLR's): May have had a dial or slot for you to store part of the film box as a reminder for you to remember what you loaded. Exposure calculation would be done with a handheld meter or would be assumed based on rules like Sunny-16. Cards were ...


6

Every service I'm aware of that produces large format prints from film will initially scan your film into a digital file anyway. Cutting out the middle man will allow you to use a color-managed workflow and most likely produce better outcomes. That being said, you can either go with a service that performs digital to film conversion for the film industry (...


5

The answer is YES: The C-41 color developer is a typical (non-staining) black & white developer. Its job is to differentiate between exposed and non-exposed silver salts present on the film. The developer then goes to work on the exposed silver salts. They are reduced to their two component parts which are silver and an halogen (Iodine – chlorine – ...


4

Developing black and white 35mm film in the 1920s would have been similar to how it's done today. Here is what I found, along with links... It seems you've already done some research to determine that 35mm cameras, such as Leica A, were available in the 1920s. You can read a bit about 35mm film on Wikipedia (135 film; 35mm movie film). Note that preloaded ...


4

I think it's more likely these photos were taken with a film that was rated at a higher speed, shot at that speed, and "pushed" in the processing to compensate for the "underexposure." Film then was relatively slow. One of the very fastest film was rated at "ASA" 1200 (Royal Pan X, for example) and processed in a high-energy developer or in rare ...


4

My condolences for how your photos came out. It is always disappointing to get film back and find it in such poor condition. You appear to have a camera issue with film advance, potential light leaks, and possibly an issue with subpar handling by the developer/printer which resulted in a failure align negatives correctly. If you look at the top photo, on ...


4

It looks to my eye like the negatives may have been significantly underexposed or underdeveloped. This resulted in negatives with very little density (they're almost transparent). Then when the negatives were scanned and reversed to give a positive image the lab applied a lot of gain to try and draw something out of the very dark images. Green tint is a ...


4

Photos taken in... shutter priority... Overcast but bright day. You probably underexposed the image. Since digital images can be "corrected", you will need to examine the film density directly to determine exposure. Other possible issues: Did you check whether the shutter and meter in your "re-discovered" AE-1 are fully functional? Was the film expired? "...


4

The emulsion side of Kodachrome was coated with a clear protective lacquer. Perhaps it has oxidized. Additionally, this coat may attract dust and such as it can gain an electrostatic charge. Lacquer is used to protect the Kodachrome emulsion. Lacquer is made from “guncotton”. Ordinary cotton is treated with nitric acid and solvents to make lacquer. As time ...


4

If the film advanced and you heard the shutter fire, there's a good chance you captured something. Based on info mattdm provides, the film may be under or over exposed, depending on whether photos were taken indoors or out, because of the fixed shutter speed. You can try using the camera while examining the shutter to see what happens. Consider taking the ...


4

Don't wash with water if you can avoid - use film cleaner available for cine film. Try Filmrenew - search web for supplier. Formaldehyde was removed from stabilizer years ago. It was replaced by a mix of common film wetting agents plus a mild fungicide. If you must wash, and can't find a modern stabilizer, just use PhotoFlow or equivalent. You are digitizing ...


4

Seems like your shutter curtain is damaged or needs a CLA (Clean-Lubricate-Adjust) At faster shutter speeds part of the image gets blocked by the shutter curtain. The slower shutter speeds seem fine, which is illustrated by your indoor shots not having any dark areas. Getting shutters repaired is an expensive task and oftentimes it is a better option to ...


4

Can I use 50mm f2 lens to take building photos? In my case will be an Yashica ML 50mm f/2. Yes. Yes you can.


4

Usually an analogue camera does not create a double exposure when pressing the shutter again, without advancing the film. The film advance process also cocks the shutter mechanism. So if the film isn't advanced, nothing happens. There are cameras that have a special feature to do double exposures, by allowing you to re-cock the shutter without advancing the ...


3

Most of the frames you show look underexposed. But there are some that look like they might be okay. Can you explain in detail how you arrived at the camera settings you used? A properly functioning AE-1 on full auto shouldn't produce such underexposed negatives. Were you using Aperture priority with F22? Did you have it in manual mode and ignore the meter? ...


3

Old Leica screw-mount cameras were designed to be used with longer leaders. You have two options: Reshape the leader with scissors or other cutting implement. You may make or purchase a leader template if desired. See YouTube: How to load 35mm film in to a Screw Mount Leica. Load the film without reshaping the leader. Make sure the film is fully seated so ...


3

Your ideas may be useful for practice, but consider these points on the basis of the particular film camera you will be using: Does it have built-in metering? That is not uncommon. Does it have autofocus? That is less common, but possible. Will you be shooting color, monochrome (B/W)or a combination? Negative or slides? B/W has the greatest exposure ...


3

Your question seems to mainly focus on exposure...so let me shed some light on the topic. Disregarding your built in meter, using a hand held meter, and full manual settings is a decent exercise regardless of whether you’re shooting digital or film - knowing more about exposure never hurts. With film, you won’t get a histogram...So it’s best to learn how ...


3

Having started in film photography many years ago, one factor which was both a positive and a negative (no pun intended!) was the expense of the whole process. This meant one spent more time composing, thinking, evaluating a given shot. Unfortunately this caused missed opportunities at times, but also helped one learn the process. For example, as a ...


3

You can take building photos with any lens you have. The biggest tradeoff is in perspective - if you have a relatively long lens, the perspective is completely different than a wide-angle lens because you have to step back farther to get the entire building in. Only you can decide exactly what type of look you are aiming for. There are other tradeoffs, too -...


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