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Lens life isn't measured in exposure time. Camera bodies will fail before a lens will, if properly cared for. It sounds like your lens was abused a bit too much for it's quality-level. … So to answer your question, your lens should be easily good for 10k exposures. It's likely due to the abuses it's suffered. …

The First lens on your list also has built in Image Stabilization, which will allow you to hand-hold your lens at near 2-3 stops 4 STOPS!! lower than what is possible without IS. … Finally, the Canon 70-200 F2.8 IS II is a new lens, which is hard to come by, which means you will pay list price for it. …

Do not suffer from zoom-creep, where the lens slowly starts to extend when gravity is pulling on it. …

In general this is what you can expect for using a 2x extender: Lower max aperture — which may cause your camera's AF system to stop working, or at least perform worse. Darker view finder Loss of sh …

I always go with first party lenses, only because of one silly issue: The Canon's EOS lens system is proprietary. …

If you're happy with the results of your lens, then stick with it. … With your lens change, you give up a full stop of light (f2.8 to f4), which can be huge, even with the 16-35's VR, but gain an extra 1mm on the wide angle. …

No, it's definitely the lens. I've had this exact same problem with the 20D and a 17-85. In order to resolve it, I sent the lens in to canon. … You can check if the electrical contacts on the lens and ensure there is no corrosion (very unlikely). …

Certainly you are entitled to spend your money how you see fit, but it seems like buying a $1600 lens (can't imagine how much it costs in Brazil) is a piss-poor investment. … It is a good lens, and if money was no object I'd have one for every day of the week. Now, I could be way of the mark. The extra bit of light could be make it or break it. …

The biggest drawback is that Nikon and Canon USA do not provide warranty service for "grey" market goods. B&H attempts to offset this by providing a "matching" warranty: BH matches up to one year of …

Identifying what you didn't like about that lens, should help you understand what you should look for in your replacement lens. … Really any lens can be a portrait lens. Are you thinking studio portraits? Travel This is my biggest area of interest. For travel, you want a light lens. Fatigue is no fun. …

Lens questions are probably the hardest gear recommendation questions to answer. … Buy a lens that fits in your budget. Make it easy and get the kit lens (the lens that is packaged with a camera body). …

As part of how Canon (and other lens makers) give technical information about their lenses, they supply an MTF (Modulation Transfer Function) chart. …

So, what do you need in a good sports photography lens? Lenses with wider apertures (aka faster lenses) give you more light to work with, allowing faster shutter speeds. … In addition, the faster the lens, the better your camera's AF will perform. On most prosumer bodies, the AF points require at least F2.8 to achieve their best performance. …

As to which lens to buy, certainly if you go the Canon route, you'll have more money to spend on lenses, though which ones to recommend highly depend on what you want to put in your portfolio. … Since your question mentions you'll be doing wedding photos, at 70-200 lens is great for close up shots, and for headshots. …

The lens costs $170 new, but you will have a harder time selling that lens for that price. Next, what is your budget? If you can afford a better lens, then you should buy a better lens. … Lens are far more important than camera bodies. However, having no lens is way way way worse than having a "bad" lens. …