I'm trying to update my Godox flash's firmware, but it's not working, and I can't figure out why. I've successfully installed the firmware update application, I've connected my flash to the computer with a USB cable, and loaded the firmware file into the software, but it just won't connect to the device and perform the upgrade.

I think I've got everything set up properly, and I've followed the PDF documentation that was in the update application archive as best I can. What should I check?


1 Answer 1


Here are some common issues with Godox firmware updating:

Mismatching firmware file

Whatever you do, DO NOT USE A FIRMWARE FILE FOR A DIFFERENT DEVICE. This is a basic tenet of all firmware updates: firmware is closely tied to hardware configurations, and any hardware differences can mean bricking a device if you overwrite with the wrong firmware image.

With Godox speedlights, the E9 error means you've loaded the wrong firmware image. You might be able to fix it if you can overwrite it with the correct one, but you may also have a bricked device that needs to be returned.

While a TT685 and V860II might be identical in UI and features, the fact that they both use different power sources means the firmware images are not identical. Each device has its own separate firmware file for a reason. TT350 users found this one out the hard way when Adorama mistakenly posted the TT350-C update (specifically for adding compatibility with some newer EOS M bodies) as a generic TT350 update. So many non-Canon TT350 owners bricked their flashes with this update, Godox eventually posted the initial versions of the TT350 firmware.

Similarly, there are several bricked X2T-C/N/S transmitters at this time, because there are "Z01" hardware versions [check your battery covery] as well as non-Z01 hardware that use different firmware images.

If your device does not yet have a firmware update posted, suck it up and wait until it does.

The only way to fix a mismatch like this is to reload the proper firmware image, but this depends on the device being able to recognize the firmware update request, and sometimes the correct/current firmware image you need is not available. Requesting the firmware from your retailer or Godox may be your only recourse.

G1, G2, or G3

Godox has three separate firmware updating apps. Which one you want to use depends on which devices you have and when they were released chronologically by Godox.

G1 G2 G3
V860 II
X1T/X1R (C/N/S)
AD360 II
AD600 Pro
X1T (F/O)
TT350 (C/N/S/O/F)
XPro (C/N/S/O/F)
AD100/200/300/400/1200 Pro
TT685 II
V860 III
[anything newer]

G1 is for the oldest devices that use .fri files; the G2 is for AD600 Pro and later (but pre-AD400 Pro) devices that use .dfu files; G3 is for AD400 Pro and later devices that use .bin files. Check the Godox downloads page to make sure you're using the correct application for your device. G1 and G2 installers will also launch a second installer to add a custom USB driver.

Bad USB cable

If the Godox application doesn't recognize the device, consider trying a different cable. Some USB cables are solely for charging and do not have the connections for data transfer. And, of course, your cable might just be bad.

There are also reports that for the units that have a USB-C port, that you need to use a USB-C to USB-A cable.

Wrong USB port

Make sure you're using the correct cable and port for firmware updating the device. This is not as easy as it sounds for the AD Witstro lights, which often come equipped with two different types of USB ports.

The USB-A port is only for attaching an FTR16 receiver if you want to use Godox's older 433 MHz triggering system. Always use the USB C (newer lights) or micro USB (older lights) port for firmware updates.

File names

If you downloaded your files from the Godox site, rather than the Flashpoint one, pathnames of either the updates or the applications may contain two-byte Chinese characters which can cause an error. Removing the two-byte characters fixes the issue.

The downloaded file is a .rar archive that contains the firmware update file, and a PDF that contains the revision history for the firmware. If Internet Explorer renamed it as a .man archive and you do not have tools to extract the archive contents, you can simply rename it to .rar.

Also, the .rar format has changed in recent updates so you may simply need to update your archiving application (e.g., update Winzip to the latest version). Or you can use the latest version of the open source 7Zip.

Disable driver signing [Windows 10, G1]

FluidKnowledge on dpreview mentions that you may also need to disable driver signing in Windows 10 to get the G1 updater and driver to work properly, as it's not signed (being written for Windows 7).

The simplest steps to do this (at time of writing) are:

  1. Hold down Shift while selecting [Start menu]→Power→Restart. Continue holding down the shift key through the spinning circle of white dots until you are in the blue advanced boot options window.
  2. Select Troubleshoot.
  3. Select Advanced options.
  4. Select Start-up Settings. You'll see a list of options, and a Restart button.
  5. Select Restart. More spinning circle before you can select how you want to modify the bootup from the list of options.
  6. Type 7; to select "7) Disable driver signature enforcement".

You box will now boot up with driver signing disabled and Secure Boot turned off, and G1 should now be able to recognize your Godox device over USB. Once you restart the box, both driver signing and Secure Boot are re-enabled.

G2 looks like it uses a separate DFU driver(?) that apparently is properly signed for Windows 10. G3 does not use an installer and does not add a driver to the system.

Taking out the batteries

Some folks are reporting that you have to remove the batteries from speedlights or transmitter before attaching them to USB to get the firmware updater to recognize it.

See also: Flash Havoc's article on the G1 app.

  • \$\begingroup\$ 860II & X1T-N have both come through as .fri files rather than .dfu after unrar (checked with multiple rar apps) - should I be worried? [I had to order a new micro USB, so I won't actually worry until Monday] & I solved the 'Windows only' issue by dragging an old PC out of the junk room ;) \$\endgroup\$
    – Tetsujin
    May 23, 2018 at 16:45
  • 1
    \$\begingroup\$ @Tetsujin, no. They use more than one format/suffix, which is why I wrote "typically a .dfu file". I'll edit to remove that bit. I use a BootCamp partition. The other two paths I've heard are virtual machine, or cheap Windows tablet. :) \$\endgroup\$
    – inkista
    May 23, 2018 at 18:04
  • \$\begingroup\$ I have Boot Camp & many Parallels VMs, but I just thought this one needed throwing at a 'real' machine. [I didn't actually drag it out of the junk room, though I've just thrown a Win10 machine in there - I keep a Win7 here for 'necessary evils' ;) \$\endgroup\$
    – Tetsujin
    May 23, 2018 at 18:31
  • \$\begingroup\$ @Tetsujin; yeah, the USB connection requirement is also why I figured just booting into Windows with Boot Camp made more sense than my Parallels VM of my Boot Camp partition. Also, my MacBook is old and slow. But VirtualBox and MS 3-month developer's VMs are free and would work for Linux, too. \$\endgroup\$
    – inkista
    May 23, 2018 at 18:34
  • \$\begingroup\$ OK, that was remarkably simple, once you figure out the instructions; they're a bit opaque. Maybe add, for clarification [this is for V860II-N and X1TN, same procedure] ... Launch app & load .fri file. Switch unit on wait for warmup, switch off, press 'flash' button. Connect USB, switch on [nothing shows, unit stays dark] On app, press Connect. Press Upgrade. Procedure is pretty fast, 10s or so. When complete press Disconnect. Power off unit, disconnect USB. It's ready to go. \$\endgroup\$
    – Tetsujin
    May 24, 2018 at 12:32

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