I’m using a bridge camera Fujifilm s7000.
This is the root of your problem. The S7000 was announced in 2003, and discontinued in 2005. And while the camera might work just as well as it ever did, digital cameras have evolved significantly over the last 15 years, and that has changed our expectations of what we should be able to do with them.
The other answers here are right: adding ambient light or flash and turning up the camera's ISO setting to make it more sensitive are about all you can do in order to get a reasonable exposure at a shutter speed that'll reduce the motion blur you're currently seeing. At the S7000's highest setting of ISO 800, you're probably going to get some very noisy images.
Using a newer camera will go a long way toward solving the problem. Even a relatively cheap point and shoot camera will significantly outperform your S7000 in every way, possibly for less money than the cost of an external flash. For example, the Sony DSC-W800 gives you a 20 megapixel sensor that shoots up to ISO 3200, and includes image stabilization for under $90. I'm not necessarily recommending that camera -- a different choice might make more sense for you, and it's a little dated itself -- but it illustrates the point, which is that cameras have advanced so much since the S7000 that replacing your camera is probably the best and cheapest option.
No camera will take a good photo if you don't give it enough light; conversely, if you give have enough light, you can probably get a good shot even with a pretty old camera. But over the last 15 years, our expectations of how much light is enough have changed because cameras have improved so much.
The examples you posted don't show much blur from motion. The plant stem in the indoor image looks pretty sharp; it's only the leaf in the foreground and the doorway in the background that are blurry. That's just shallow depth of field, and it's expected when you use a wide aperture. If the goal is to get more of the foreground and background objects in focus, then a newer camera with better low-light performance would still help because higher ISO would let you use a smaller aperture.
It's hard to tell what was supposed to be in focus in the outdoor shot, and the fact that you took it though a windshield doesn't help. The streetlight in the middle of the shot looks like it might be in focus, but it's hard to tell because it's so small. The biggest defect, though, is that there's a lot of chromatic aberration: there's a sort of magenta glow on the right edges of the tree branches, and a green glow along the left edges. Part of that is just the quality of the lens, but you can often reduce CA by shooting with a smaller aperture. A cheap compact camera might not do any better here, but a DSLR with a good lens would.