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I'm sure many people dislike the awful ISO dial lock switch on the FujiFilm X-T1 cameras. Fuji fixed it on the X-T2 by replacing it with a toggle switch. But frankly, I think most photographers use ISO dial as often as the aperture or the shutter speed. So there's no logic for being "protective" about it. I love Fujifilm, but this was a stupid move. (And so is the toggle on X-T2, but anything is better than this)

How do I disable the ISO dial lock on the X-T1?

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  • No, I can't say I have ever had trouble with the ISO lock, and it matches locks on other systems. Just push the button and turn the knob. On neither my Canon 5DMkIII nor the XT-1 have I ever adjusted the ISO as much as the aperture or shutter speed. I only adjust ISO when I am limited in the other areas, or can not achieve my goals. FWIW, the Canon does not even provide a knob to adjust the ISO, you need to use the menus or a button and wheel. In either system, I use the Auto ISO feature that will adjust ISO upwards if needed based on my settings. This nearly always provides what I would have – cmason Aug 1 '17 at 19:08
  • Main reason I love Fujifilm - their controls. Used to have Canon 5D Mark II. While it offers better color reproduction, and higher flash sync (the two notable downgrades for me), Fujifilm X-T1 is an upgrade in terms of usability. I only shoot RAW and always in full Manual mode, sometimes use old Canon lenses, and 99% of time available light, making ISO very important as light gets low. I missed Nikon's ISO Toggle functionality when using Canon's on/off switch. Now I just can't go back to a camera without dedicated ISO dial, aperture ring and a flip screen. I suppose techniques can vary though. – Emil Aug 1 '17 at 20:07
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How to disassemble / take apart Fujifilm X-T1 and how to disable ISO Dial lock switch.

It is relatively easy to take apart FujiFilm X-T1. You only need one type of screwdriver, although the screws themselves are different. So as usual, make sure to have several small containers and a piece of paper to write down/draw where a particular screw came from. It took me less than half an hour. And I had no idea what I was doing. Took longer to document the process :)

The way the camera opens is, the top part comes loose and the back slides out, separating from the front. WARNING: DO NOT remove the top first. Just unscrew it and notice that it is loose and leave it be. The reason is that it has several short ribbon (film) cables, and if you lift it up first, you're likely to disconnect or mis-align them, or worse!

So first remove all the screws that I will mention below in diagrams, then slide the back side out, and the then the top will easily lean back. The back side is preventing it from leaning back. Here in this photo you can see that I tried it at first without removing the backside: enter image description here

As you're removing the back side make sure to support the top so that it doesn't fall, pulling on the cables. Back side also has ribbon cables but it's much more easy to handle, they're only attached towards the bottom (see image below).

So if you do everything right, no need to unplug any of the cables. If you've ever dealt with ribbon cables you know why I'm stressing this part so much. They and the ports they go into are very fragile and difficult to handle. Tweezers can scratch them and even cut the connection. (Here they're not that big of a deal as in Fuji lenses I opened previously, but still why bother if you don't have to right?)

So, lets do it step by step.

1) Bottom: there are 8 screws - unscrew all

2) Front: only 1 (small) screw on the right side, peal off the rubber covering.enter image description here

Left/Right is when facing the camera.

3) Left: 2 above, 2 below (all behind the rubber)

4) Right: 2 above (behind the rubber) and one behind the USB door

5) Back side: Lift up the viewfinder rubber guard to reveal 2 screws, and flip up the LCD to reveal two screws there: enter image description here

The lower part behind the LCD has 4 more screws. Those ones only hold the LCD in place. Don't remove them.

6) Once these screws are removed the camera can come apart. Again, don't pull on the top part. Slide the back side out as in this diagram:enter image description here

enter image description here

It comes apart this way, so the middle sides belong to the front part. That's why in the previous pic I'm pushing the top edge out with my index fingers and bottom with my thumbs.enter image description here

7) And it opens up like thisenter image description here

8) Now with the back cover down, the top part can be leaned backwards easily:enter image description here

9) And you have access to the ISO dial mechanism. Just unscrew that middle screw and follow the diagram to remove the evil silver ring. It actually snaps on/out. So if you ever wanted to put it back, it's a possibility.enter image description here

10) And here's how it looks like inside. enter image description here

Before doing this, I was wondering if there's a spring inside etc, and that afterwards there would be a hole I would need to seal... but none of that! Once you take out the ring and close up the camera, the button is still in place and presses down like before, except it has ZERO effect now! The ISO dial still clicks as you rotate it, same as before. It's like the magic fairy came and took only this silly ISO dial lock "feature" away without any side effects, with an exception of course, that you actually have to do it all yourself ;)

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    Thanks for the instructions!!! That lock button was driving me crazy, I was always shifting shooting modes while changing the ISO. BTW I had the same screw in the same position as you in the step 7 pic. – Hugo Oct 25 '17 at 18:31
  • Glad it was helpful! I think the camera is so well planned out that it's uncommon to accidentally trip any of the knobs/switches in normal operation. The only thing that I do rarely find in the wrong position is the focusing mode switch on the front. I only use it in M position so I get really confused when the zoom assist feature refuses to activate. Then after a minute or so I remember ah, it must be that switch... Strange about the screw, maybe it's a tradition of some sort, like misplace the last screw for good luck? – Emil Nov 12 '17 at 17:26
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    @Emil Great answer, Thank you very much. I just want to add that you don't have to unscrew all the screws around tripod mount. Unscrew only two of then - the ones that are closer to screen (Back of camera) and leave two screws on other side alone (front part of camera). That way when you start removing back part, tripod mount won't be flopping around. And you will also save time by not having to deal with tripod mount when you want to assemble camera. – graudējs Jan 5 '18 at 23:56
  • Thanks a lot for these pictures ! It seems that front screw of 2) don't need to be removed. I don't see where it go on the top side on others photos... The pull off procedure is easy ? as we don't see any others pictures of the screws behind the skin on both side... in fact the main question is : it is easy to put it back on position without any trace ? Do we need glue ? – psylone Jan 9 '18 at 19:10
  • @psylone the front screw is holding the top, so it needs to be removed. As for pulling it off, well if you do it exactly as I described and very gently, it should be relatively easy. But if you remove the ribbon cables in the process, it’ll be a bit harder to put it back together. No glue is needed. The adhesive there can be good for opening/closing a few times. – Emil Feb 9 '18 at 10:44
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Thank you! this helped with my X-T2 I tried to record it, but it didn't work out. The shutter speed ring was sticking.

Tools needed: A small pick To help remove and reapply adhesive parts with no trace of disassembly https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-pick-and-hook-set-66836.html

And a PH00 magnetic 3" scerw driver https://www.amazon.com/8800C-PH00-75-precision-Phillips-screwdriver/dp/B06XPS7ZD8

I'll use the same steps with X-T2 instructions:

1) Bottom: there are 8 screws - unscrew the 3 that are closest to the rear of the camera

2) Front: NO SCREWS ON THE FRONT (They've replaced this with 2 screws INSIDE Left and right. Get a long 3" magnetic screw driver for those. Also there is an adhesive so be careful not to pull/pry off so you don't disconnect/break the ribbons. Slowly wedge it up.)

3) Left: With the pick carefully pry off the rubber adhesive that says HDMI to reveal the screw and unscrew.

4) Right: With the pick carefully pry back the rubber adhesive behind the strap holder to reveal the screw and unscrew.

5) Back side: Tilt the viewfinder and carefully peel off the black adhesive strip of tape at the top (where the viewfinder was) to reveal 2 screws and unscrew. You can use a heat gun to help. I didn't, but it took some finesse and patience.

6) Once these screws are removed the camera can come apart. Again, don't pull on the top part. Slide the back side out like above.

7) NOTE: Honestly I removed the 2 ribbons from the back because it was just way easier, but if you've never done this I wouldn't recommend it. There are tiny tabs that you need to push down and the ribbons that don't are tough to reinsert and not break. Almost everyone I know who's messed with these ribbons have bricked a device at one point starting out. It take experience, finesse and patience.

8) Look into the camera at the top. you will see two screws that are holding the top to the body. Unscrew those. Now this is the part you need to be cautious. There is adhesive tape that is holding the top to the body. SLOWLY and GENTLY rock the top off enough to get something to wedge it out the rest of the way. IF YOU PULL UP AND IT SLIPS YOU WILL BREAK THE TOP 4 RIBBONS!!! ANY CRY!!!

9) NOTE: Honestly I removed the 4 ribbons from the back to the top because it was just way easier ... but PLEASE remember my note above.

My issue was the shutter speed dial. There was a screw in the middle as said above. I unscrewed it, cleaned it with alcohol and realigned the dial back and screwed it back.

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