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I used to use this ring flash with my D7100 and 105 Nikon for several years. I just recently upgraded to the D500, and now all my pics are in overexposed (overblown) in TTL mode. I mostly used manual exposure with aperture f/13 and shutter speed 1/125th. I get bit under or over exposed by a little bit, but this is totally different.

Why doesn't my Sigma ring flash work properly in TTL mode with the D500 Nikon when it works quite fine with other models like D7100 or D810?

  • I know Nikon have changed their TTL flash control at least a couple of times over the years. You might want to check the manuals for the cameras and your flash to see which version each is using. If it's different for the D500, that may be the reason. – JerryTheC Jul 16 '17 at 13:25
  • i actually have an overexposure problem related to the use of the ring flash , camera doesn't seem to identify the flash and TTL mode is not working properly . – Mohammad Alshakhas Jul 16 '17 at 17:57
  • my question is how to fix the overexposure issue with ring flash in TTL mode with d500 however, i truly failed to correct it . ring flash works properly with other cameras like d810 or my previous d7100 – Mohammad Alshakhas Jul 16 '17 at 18:04
  • Did they solved the probleem already? Ik have the same issue with the D750. On the D300S it is working fine. On the D750 There is no communication. No TTL, no ISO communication. It is kind of stranger, because the SB700 is working on Both camera's. Ik send messages tot Sigma and Nikon. – Harry Kramer Dec 24 '18 at 17:43
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Nikon doesn't tell Sigma how their TTL protocol works (and Sigma does not pay to license it). The communication is reverse engineered. Sometimes, the protocol used varies slightly from camera body model to model — and sometimes, that variation means that the guesses Sigma made are out-of-spec and communication breaks. Sometimes, Sigma updates the firmware of their flashes to support new models — but there's no promise that they will.

I assume your flash is the EM-140 DG Macro Flash. The D500 isn't on the current compatibility table, so it's not surprising that it doesn't work. The D7100 isn't either, but it's also really not a surprise that some non-listed models do work by coincidence.

This is unfortunate, but your best bet is to contact Sigma and ask for support. This won't get you immediate response, but if they get enough requests for D500 support, they'll take that seriously. Also unfortunately, the other lesson really is: if you want more than manual control and need confidence that it will work across models, you need to buy on-brand accessories.

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I've deleted my ealier erroneous answer, which was based on out of date information as best I could remember from my last SLR, a Canon FTb which I sold about 30 years ago to buy my first PC.

I, too, have just acquired a Nikon D5600 and a PLOTURE Ring Flash and was considering returning the camera because I thought that perhaps its hot shoe was not fit for purpose, in that the camera did not sense the flash's presence and thus over-exposed photos taken using it. However, chatting here with flolilo has led to my investigating the problem further, and I now think that the ring flash design might be more to blame.

As flolilo has explained, the hole in the hotshoe is to accommodate a locking pin on the flash which is extended as you screw down the hotshoe clamp. You can see this quite clearly in the following two photos ...

Clamp released, locking pin retracted:  [www.macfh.co.uk/Temp/20190403_212558.jpg][1]
Clamp tightened, locking pin extended:  [www.macfh.co.uk/Temp/20190403_212447.jpg][1]

... note also that the hotshoe plug is made of plastic, and therefore that the locking pin itself is the only earth/ground connection. From what I saw when browsing to choose a flash, most cheaper flashes have either an identical or very similar arrangement - so similar that I suspect many are just different brandings of the same underlying hardware.

What seemed to happening in my case is that the locking pin was engaging in the hole, but failing to make electrical contact with its edge, and thus the camera could not detect that the flash had been mounted. As an experiment, I tried flicking a drop of solder off my iron onto a plate, so that it made a thin sliver, and cut this into a shape to cover the hole, then holding the flash with its hotshoe plug uppermost and parallel to the ground, balanced the solder over its retracted locking pin, and holding the camera upside down slid its hotshoe gently and fully over the flash's plug, so as not to move the solder as I did so. The flash then worked properly - photos taken with it were properly exposed. Curiously, it still worked once I'd removed the sliver of solder, so perhaps when the solder was in place the action of tightening the clamp slightly bent or deformed the locking pin so that it now makes electrical contact even without the solder. At any rate, it seems to be fixed for the moment, but I've been careful to keep the sliver of solder, just in case!

So what conclusions can we draw from this? As so many of the cheap flashes are identical or similar, it seems likely that most of the problems with them and some modern cameras are not caused by software changes within the camera as I've seen suggested, but simply by the earth/ground terminal of the flash not making contact with that of the shoe. Rather than juggling about with bits of solder, silver-paper, or tin-foil, people encountering this problem may care to try the following ...

When mounting the flash unit:

  1. Initially push it all the way in;
  2. Tighten the wheeled clamp sufficiently to engage the locking pin definitely, but not so much that the flash can't be wiggled about in the hotshoe;
  3. Pull the flash backward slightly so that the locking pin comes into contact with the rear of the hole in the camera's hotshoe;
  4. Finish tightening the clamp.

Hopefully by this method the earth/ground terminal of the flash will be in contact with that of the camera, and the flash will work.

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